JBNeal

hmmm...all of a sudden there is another possible buyer...that sounds like a salesman tactic to hasten some cash in hand...they better produce a key AND a valid title if they want my $$$ before I'd make an offer...

Looks like an older restoration...might not be a bad investment

From what I've seen, C-1 mechanical and electrical parts carry over from B-4 and C-3 and into the late 50s. The biggest parts of concern are the windshield and its gasket...I have not researched this in depth, but as it was less than 2 yrs in production, that might be a problem.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 panel on the FB being guarded by a couple of boy scouts

Drill them lubrication holes to match the old bushings and align them as required...those replacement bushings may have applications that do not require those specific lubrication holes, so it's up to the rebuilder to customize.

Tucker on display for the buying public...neckties not required

Is the roll up door gonna be the corrugated tin type that winds around a drum? Those are tricky to seal for a climate controlled room.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 at the service station on the FB...looks like it has a Job-Rated bed on it

additional information - Fluid Drive general dimensions

FWIW the fuel gauge isn't dampened so fuel sloshing around in the tank registers as a busy needle...with practice you can kinda decipher how much range ya have left when the needle settles around E longer. I would not top off the tank if I knew that I would not be driving it alot, as most of my driving was done on country back roads. Refueling required a trip to town, which I would need to plan ahead to maximize my errand running...although there were summertime occasions when I had to drive into town to get gas for the truck, so I grabbed all the lawnmower gas cans to justify the trip, and grabbed a bite at a local choke'n'puke since I was nearby

Before there was a Low Fuel Warning Light, they had fuel gauges that would register E when there was a few gallons left. I adjusted my float arms to read E at about 3 gallons cuz there's a hill to climb to get back to my place, and without tank baffles, having less than 3 gallons in the tank transformed me into a pedestrian on more than one occasion.

HOLLYWOOD: 3-window B-series on Heartbreak Ridge

If that crankshaft is in a position where pistons are near TDC or BDC, then the crankshaft might be fighting any attempts to drive the pistons loose as the connecting rods have no mechanical advantage in the vertical position. Getting the crankshaft out of the way removes this restriction, though that is easier said than done. Another alternative to the MMO-style mix is DOT 3 brake fluid...itsa mess but it may make the magic happen

Kinda looks like the repro dud has different bend radius and break lines than the original...profile looks different too...all hallmarks of outsourced craftsmanship, where "close enough ship it" are words spoken up and down the totem pole...SAD

mixed messages on display back in the day 👀

Tuckers getting eyeballed on the street

That linked thread touches on some good pointers, as the inexperienced flathead engine rebuilder might miss some details on these timing chain covers. The cover sheet metal needs to be checked for damage that needs to be corrected prior to reinstalling, as the flanges can be tweaked and the seal plane can get caved in from improper seal installation. Centering the cover seal on the crankshaft also requires care as there is some wiggle room here that can lead to leaks. I recall hearing about some seal leaks that were caused by that oil tube pointed at the seal instead of the chain sprocket, with various opinions as to how that could happen. So care needs to be exercised at each step of the rebuild, as getting in a hurry and cutting corners can lead to an expensive lesson.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 at the service station on the FB

Leather seal + oil slinger combo was replaced by the rubber lip seal because the manufacturing technology improved, making the rubber seals cheaper and more reliable than leather seals. Leather seals are still available in certain applications where oil is under low pressure, but opt for the rubber as leather requires oil contact to stay pliable; sitting for long periods will dry out the leather, leading to premature failure. A problem with the older seal technology was that as the seal material aged, it became harder and less pliable. This would lead to a small groove wearing into the sealing surface that a new seal would not make adequate contact with, leading to leaks. Speedi-sleeve is your friend when this happens.

A full tank of fresh gasoline should give a little head pressure at the mechanical fuel pump inlet, that can help...if'n ya got a substantial amount of old gas without fuel stabilizer, that gas will not fire unless the engine is spinning fast. One trick I learned on stock 6V is to disconnect the voltage regulator and start the engine on a 12V battery to get the starter to spin faster. Kill the engine once it fires on 12V, reconnect VR and 6V battery, then attempt to start on the stock setup. If your '49 has original battery cables, it might be time to replace them as that could be contributing to slowed starter cranking speed.

I ordered a copy of Bunn's C-series Trucks Restoration Guide awhile back for research purposes, and learned a few things from it. The C-1 was an evolution of the B-series, but the C-3 was a step backwards in styling...it does not make much sense to invest in design and tooling for a truck cab and doors to only be in production for less than 2 years... there wasn't anything wrong with the original design, but marketing direction followed the competition with the forward look fad...the result was leaky doors and windshields that rotted out cabs, and the subsequent D-series corrected these issues by designing cabs with raked windshield lines similar to the B-series and C-1. The C-series had trim badges on the front fenders for Custom, Custom Regal, and DeLuxe. No hood ornament was installed at the factory; a ram head medallion or a V8 badge were on the nose of the hood center, just above the DODGE badge atop the grille opening. If you're seeing a ram hood ornament on this basement prospect, it might've been borrowed from an older truck or car.

Deciding which is better is like asking me to choose between Mom's peach cobbler and Mom's german chocolate cake...both are decadent winners !! 🏆 Tucker two tone, aft view

Tucker two tone