JBNeal

Maybe a magnetic decal could be applied when ya want to take the buggy to town 😁 That taillight looks good from my couch...let'r rip ⚡

the Tucker that wiped out at the test track...that should buff out ⚡

Excerpt from the factory parts manual for the brake and clutch pedal assembly (except COE and 4-ton): The two pull-back springs shown (5-34-1 and 6-27-5) show as the same part # 563753, which gives with my collection having springs that look the same. The formed sheet metal bracket with 4 holes looks very much like the rear fuel tank bracket. additional information - B-series fuel tank installation

I believe there is a rollover valve on or near the fuel tank sending unit that acts as a vent...and bugs and dirt can plug those up. The plastic baffle crack could be age related. When I pulled the diesel tank on the QuadCab a couple of years ago, the strainer on the baffle was clogged, and when I tried to clean it, it began to disintegrate...that's 20+ yrs in a plastic diesel tank, and it still rotted; gasoline additives are a bit more aggressive on drying out plastics. How old is that oxygen sensor?

If ya know anything about Y2K-ish Subarus, you'd know that they had a head gasket design flaw that would eventually fail if the coolant was not flushed every 2 years. As the coolant aged, it's pH level would change to the point where it would erode the head gasket, exposing the design flaws that would leak exhaust gas into the coolant system. Eventually, the coolant would start to smell like tailpipe and turn brownish green, but by then it was too late and overheating was an inevitability. These are pressurized systems so the other telltale sign would be a low coolant level in the reservoir when cold but nearly overflowing when at op.temp. These flathead head gaskets typically are far more robust than the Subaru design, so they can take some abuse. The only failure that I have seen was an abused flathead and the gasket split on the siamesed area, but that did not seem to affect the coolant as much as it was smoking and backfiring. The long gone radiator guy in town told me to fill an empty system to about an inch below the neck, drive it around for a week, fill to below an inch again, and repeat until it didn't need topping off...he said sometimes it takes weeks to get all of the air out, but not to worry about it, as these flatheads were not gonna blow up if they were a little short on coolant...he even made the offhand comment that ya could drive a flathead without any coolant in the top tank visible, but ya didn't want the inside of the rad.cap to be dry, something about keeping the radiator wet like a good date--if it's dry you're in trouble, but if it's too wet, then you're also in trouble but in a different way...not sure what he was getting at cuz I was a dumb teenager at the time 🤔

VINTAGEPIC: saw this B-1or2 on the used car lot on the FB

You're absolutely correct, if that PCM temp sensor is sending faulty information, then the PCM gets "confused" and spits out codes...I learned a long time ago that oxygen sensors are prone to getting "lazy" as they age since the sensor materials are in a harsh environment. I had a friend with a 2004 Matrix that she bought new, and in 2021 I told her it did not sound right, asked her when she last changed the O2 sensors, she just looked at me funny and changed the subject...6 months later in February, the CEL illuminated, my scanner kicked out O2 sensor codes, swapped those 2 rusty cusses out, and that thing ran smooth and quiet and was FAST, she said it had not run that good in years and accused me of being some kind of witch...a few weeks later, she got her first speeding ticket in a school zone, and she blamed my witchcraft skillz and not her lead foot 😁

Builds Post updated with revised color wiring diagram, shock absorber replacement, Deluxe Products Oil Filter information, B-series radiator cap identification, and Autolite HA-4032-D horn adjustments.

Here's a video of the door lock that needed surprisingly little attention...just a dose of Marvel Mystery Oil and 24hrs later, the vehicle could be "secured"

Here's a video of the door lock that needed surprisingly little attention...just a dose of Marvel Mystery Oil and 24hrs later, the vehicle could be "secured"

Maybe that original oil pump is locked up...that's been an issue lately that can be problematic...

What specifically is the problem that ya need help with? I assume this kit has some instructions and access to customer service, but those are not guaranteed to be of any help...Hewlett-Packard is a big company, but their technical support wasted about 40hrs of my time trying to debug software on my new notebook last year when I kept telling them that it was a hardware problem (HP eventually replaced the touchscreen )

I spotted this square tread bumper on the FB, posted by an enthusiast from New Mexico...that thing is something 👀

This style distribution tube puller is in my future

This may or may not help: When I fiddled with PCM mapping back in the day, the problem here sounds like the PCM is trying to switch to closed loop mode but the injectors are stuck in open loop mode, hence the rich fuel code, almost like a relay is sticking somewhere. I'm not familiar with the Chrysler specific fuel delivery circuitry, so I'm not sure if this relay is modular or soldered to the PCM.

more neckties around a Tucker

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this B-3or4 at a used car lot on the FB

BUH-RUM-PUM-PUM-BUMP 🎄

Maybe take that infrared thermometer and look at your entire cooling system. If'n ya got high exhaust manifold temps and a radiator that is not much above ambient, that water pump might not be moving coolant sufficiently because of an internal problem such as a floating impeller or an external restriction such as a thermostat that is not opening properly. A clogged or leaky WDT will also cause more heat to soak into the rear of the engine rather than circulate through the cooling system. If the radiator has hot spots + cold spots, there might be some blockage there. FWIW I have an exhaust temp gauge in the QuadCab, and the 5.9L Cummins normally gets up to 400°F at idle in above freezing ambient temperatures. This straight 6 diesel is about twice the size of the pickup flatheads, and pulling a load of 5000# up a grade, the exhaust temps get up to about 1000°F with about 15psi boost, but within a minute of getting back to flat road, temps drop back to 700°F at about 7psi boost. And after driving like this all day, idle temps get back to 400°F within a minute or so...it's been running like this for 250k, no mods beyond 4" exhaust upgrade and 15psi fuel pump. Coolant gauge temps get up to 200°F in above freezing ambient temperatures and pretty much stay there, even in TX summer heat. So 500°F sounds a tad high for the lower output flatheads, even in the summer. The only time that I have seen temperatures that high on a gasoline engine was when I was working on a GMC being converted to run on propane...that involved trying to deal with some GM emissions blackboxes kept leaning out the carb after the truck went to closed loop operation. I didn't need a thermometer to know that something was wrong with the truck as opening the hood felt like opening the oven on a Red Baron that was ready to serve 🍕