JBNeal

Parade of Progress indeed 🙄

Chrysler Turbine ready for the streets

If anyone asks, thems is vents 👈

back on topic... VINTAGEPIC: spotted this B-1or2or3 at the service station on the internets

Running the single carb, Carter on the 1/2 ton and Stromberg on the 1-ton, with 4.1 rears, I do not recall a time where I did better than 14 mpg on the lumpy backroads...did not lay down any rubber either while moseying around keeping it between the ditches.

I have a grille bar that is torn on one end and has a sizeable projectile wound on the other end...that one is gonna be a problem. But mashed to the point of losing the profile detail? That just requires more elbow grease and patience.

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this Job-Rated flatbed at the car show near Chicago on the internets

TALLY-HO 🏆

I reckon the zerks are not installed because they are too easy to damage while driving on unpaved surfaces, which could allow grease to leak out. I fill those by putting a small dollop of grease on my thumb and feed it into the cavity,that way the grease will squirt out around my thumb instead of blowing out those axle shaft seals.

The Plymouth tailgate script is technically artwork not a standard font.

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this Job-Rated flatbed at the car show near Chicago on the internets

TALLY-HO 🏆

Many years ago, I saw a profile of a properly packed hub in an old service manual, may have been for an International Harvester M...it clearly showed that the hub grease did not fully fill the hub cavity, but rather formed a grease layer from the hub seal to the hub bearing grease cap. From the C-1 shop manual: I added the red lines to show the boundary layer that I have described. Once the bearings are packed to flush out any old grease and contaminants, the hub bearings are placed in their seats which should have a thin grease coating applied, then the hub seals are installed. Grease is further applied to fill the cavity between the hub seal and the inner hub bearing, with grease applied to the lip groove to displace moisture, dirt, etc. With the outer hub bearing in place, grease is applied (I use an old butter knife) into the center cavity, using the hub bearings inside diameters as a gauge. Thin layers of grease are applied to the spindle shaft and shoulder to displace moisture, then the hubs are installed to the spindle shaft and adjusted. The grease cap has grease applied in the reverse cone profile with that butter knife as shown; this grease will find its own level once it reaches maximum sustained rpms. This now continuous layer of hub grease can flow a little, and that little air gap around the spindle allows for some thermal expansion without building pressure to blow out that hub seal. How many ounces is that? Dunno, as long as that grease layer profile is met, then that should work. I have found that modern lithium wheel bearing grease starts to dry out around the 10 year mark. During hub inspection, this can be seen as jagged cracks in the grease, something that cannot be done with fresh grease. The old grease may feel slick, but if the grease cracks, that means it no longer flows smoothly and is becoming chunky-style...time to clean out the old and slather on the new 🥳

I reckon that I did not choose my words correctly earlier ...if'n ya have no brakes, then that brake pedal should go all the way to the floorboard without hitting the firewall much like pushing the clutch pedal to the floorboard. Both pedals should have similar shapes and pivot on the same shaft, so they should articulate the same if no opposing force is present.

back on topic... VINTAGEPIC: spotted this B-2or3 low-side north of San Diego on the internets

don't see no tubby kids on this playground 👀

V8 performance is gonna come with V8 costs...instead of stewing on mpgs how'bout enjoying smiles-per-gallon 😁

you're welcome 🏆

more questionable behavior going on at that dairy north of Chicago

On the factory setup with the brake shoes adjusted properly, the brake pedal should stop several inches above the floorboard. If the brake pedal goes to the floorboard, then get ready to grab that parking brake and hope that it's adjusted properly. If the pedal is hitting the firewall, there may be some kinda alignment issue.

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this C-1 west of Chicago on the internets

Chrysler Turbine getting its undercarriage eyeballed by a flock o' suits

back on topic... VINTAGEPIC: saw this Route Van north of Chicago on the internets

another attempt at opening a drive-thru lane goes awry