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JBNeal

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Everything posted by JBNeal

  1. JBNeal

    FB_IMG_1731525534632.jpg

    From the album: Vintage Pictures

  2. Back in the day, ppl would climb all over these buggies while they were a-raisin he11...these flimsy hoods getting tweaked does not surprise me. Until ya get that flathead purring, you could probably roll up a hand towel and place it between the rad and hood...that'll get any squeaking to simmer down a tad.
  3. Whenever I have run into screws that walk out, I apply one overlapping layer of Teflon tape to the threads...this has effectively wedged the screw in its mating threads without using thread-lock. On small screws, this is easier said than done, but sharp tweezers, steady hands and a good eye can get it done.
  4. VINTAGEPIC: saw this mashed B-1or2 on the FB...it probably buffed out
  5. counting neckties on the Tucker final assembly line
  6. Maybe there is a problem with the fuel lines, possibly a pinched metal line or a collapsing rubber line...a reduced cross section on a draw tube will affect the pump's lift capacity, which can reduce its delivery rate to the point where it falls below the carburetor's operation threshold.
  7. additional information - Fluid Drive demonstration
  8. B-3 FD has the viscous coupling and a dry clutch and pressure plate.
  9. VINTAGEPIC: spotted a couple of B-3or4s at a used car dealer on the FB
  10. JBNeal

    FB_IMG_1731294401810.jpg

    From the album: Vintage Pictures

  11. JBNeal

    FB_IMG_1730848261450.jpg

    From the album: Vintage Pictures

  12. JBNeal

    FB_IMG_1731267444021.jpg

    From the album: Vintage Pictures

  13. It would probably be easier to drill out that retaining screw than get those hinge pins out, them two can be a real bear. They might have long drill bits at the hardware store that can make this task easier.
  14. Come on, why ya gotta be splitting hairs? 😁 OP said there was no flywheel with FD, I said that there was (with brief details), then you agreed by adding further details...sounds like we're on the same side on this one again...bottom line, tinkering with that FD coupling should be done with care as they can be easy to mess up with improper maintenance and scarce repair parts. OP has a long row to hoe before getting this beast rolling under its own power safely, and helping out with theee details is beneficial in reducing repair costs AND improving enjoyment factor 🏆
  15. There's a flywheel in there with a ring gear for starter engagement, the fluid drive coupler is bolted to the flywheel, and the clutch + pressure plate are bolted to the coupler. additional information - miscellaneous repair details
  16. Crawl under that beast and remove the flywheel cover, put a prybar on the ring gear and see what colorful german phrases you can utter...this might obviate the need to proceed on any immediate parts purchases.
  17. from the Factory Parts Manual:
  18. counting neckties on the Tucker assembly line
  19. VINTAGEPIC: saw this late 50s Dodge parked on the FB
  20. what is the brand +part# of the newer thermostat that you have pictured? This post from a few days ago shows one of those adapters stuck in the head: https://p15-d24.com/topic/62105-flange-at-thermostat-inlet/ From what i can tell, that adapter may be a press fit inside the housing, so ya may need to put some oomph into putting this contraption together. The old style thermostat does not have bypass ports as the thermostat housing and engine head are the external bypass style. additional information - flathead bypass thermostat engine head identification
  21. additional information - B-series fuel tank comparison
  22. JBNeal

    FB_IMG_1730208170203.jpg

    From the album: Vintage Pictures

  23. JBNeal

    FB_IMG_1730285402089.jpg

    From the album: Vintage Pictures

  24. JBNeal

    FB_IMG_1730395847452.jpg

    From the album: Vintage Pictures

  25. I reckon the assembly procedure is to turn the thermostat housing upside down; center the rubber gasket inside the housing with the collar, with the small lip facing away from the housing flange; thermostat flange should sit in housing counterbore, with thermostatic coil pointed towards head; then housing flange gasket. The original thermostat had a rubber gasket that fit snug on that smaller neck that would seal up inside the housing.
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