JBNeal

I took apart the steering gearbox in my '49, cleaned and inspected the parts before reassembly, did the correct adjustments, replaced the output shaft seal, then filled the steering gearbox with John Deere corn head grease...that took out the slop and ain't leaked at all since.

My '49 was sidelined for awhile due to a non-start issue...I followed the circuits, and figured out that the original wire that ran from the coil to distributor had corroded so badly inside the rotten cotton-braided insulation that not enough current was flowing to the distributor...after I replaced that few inches of wire, it started right up. 🏆

I recall the C-1-B rims should have the 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern...fwiw, that side mounted spare rim is not original either, kinda looks like the spare rim I had on the 92 Dakota. The big problem with the C-series was its limited run: C-1 debuted for 1954, with a brief run into 1955; then C-3 debuted in mid-'55 with many running changes, the most notable being the cab + doors going with a more forward look, and ran into 1956. By 1957, the sheet metal forward of the cab completely changed. So the grille + front fenders for the C-1 and C-3 are interchangeable, but the cabs and doors are not. The C-3 cab was used in small trucks until the end of 1960, and in large trucks until the end of 1975. So in some regards, the C-1 was a one-year only production run...that can make parts scarce and repairs expensive. As for steering and braking, the B-series and C-series were very similar. I do not have a factory parts manual to verify all part numbers, but there were quite a few items from the B-4 that carried over to the C-1, as well as C-1 items carrying over to the C-3 and beyond in compatibility, most notably powertrain and suspension parts. The big change for C-1 steering was moving the gearbox outside the frame rails, as the frame was made more narrow at the front axle to decrease turning radius. From a cursory review, this changed the B-4 steering gearbox casting, but the internals were unchanged or slightly modified.

additional information - optional heater control locations

I do not see the extra switch dangling in that picture, but I see a glass fuse that I know was not factory installed, so who knows what's going on back there...sounds like ya need to trace some wires to confirm functionality.

the skeptical crowd observing a helicopter engine being shoved up into a Tucker

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this W-series tanker and B-1or2 runner at the firehouse on the FB

Sounds like you have located where to tap in with the pressure gauge...if switch is good and brakes work then MC has a problem; if switch is good and brakes do not work, then brake lights are the least of your problems.

@Rlopera44 How'bout posting a picture of the parts that you are describing so that knowledgeable gearheads can wrap their brains around what you're a-lookin at, for some context 🤔

VINTAGEPIC: spotted this Power Wagon wrecker on the FB

JEEBUS at this point I recommend changing your strategy, cuz that engine has an internal problem that has been touched on by others with too much crud binding up the mechanism. I have rebuilt 2 flatheads without removing the engines, including replacing valve guides. One truck I managed to do this without removing the dog house, just the hood and inner fenders. As it was pointed out to me by old timer mechanics who have been long gone, local service stations could rebuild engines without removal as most vehicles built into the early 60s could be worked on without a lift or engine hoist. These buggies had not been parked for decades, so all they typically needed were a ring job, valves ground and new guides, and a seal kit. If ya cannot turn the ring gear, then surgery is required to determine what's binding before doing some damage. Pulling the head and valve covers for sure, even the oil pan needs to come out cuz if that crank is crusty, it ain't gonna matter what's soaking the piston rings loose. One of those flatheads that I rebuilt, drove that thing for 15yrs and then it started having what I think was a partially spun bearing due to a worn crankshaft that needed attention. At the same time, I was flooded with work and chores and helping out the elderly neighbors with increasing mobility issues; 5yrs went by, I went to turn that ring gear on the engine that ran when parked, and it was a no-go...even sitting closed up with oil on every surface needed, it jammed up. So it's on the overhaul list again, hopefully it'll just need crankshaft service and oversized bearings to rectify its problem, as it ran well and never smoked or leaked.

I've had this discussion with quite a few gearheads about being thrifty...there are some things where the premium price is paid for peace of mind; otherwise, every time that machine is operated is a roll of the dice as to when failure will occur...choose wisely

US Radiator has a few Dodge Truck options to consider.

@Merle Coggins from what I can tell, there were 2 starters for B-1s divided by engine #, and 2 starters for B-2s divided by engine #...all of those starters have been superceded by the starter listed as those previous starter assemblies were no longer available when that parts manual was printed in 1954. Individual parts, such as the different yokes, were still available, listed on the next page...whether they were on eternal backorder or also superceded is academic I reckon.

bhump 🦃

If your goal is to remove the engine and you have the radiator removed, the transmission input shaft can be partially retracted, then lift the engine off its motor mounts, move it forward and tilt the front of the engine a bit. The transmission input shaft should be able to be finagled out with this gravity assist once the powertrain is angled back.

counting neckties on the Tucker assembly line

The 4th bolt is accessible with the parking brake drum removed.

On Fluid Drive B-2s, that nearby crossmember can be unbolted for easier transmission removal.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this Dodge COE getting a little carried away with a local delivery on the FB

I do not see any lock straps on them u-joint cups, so it looks like ya have the late B-2 Spicer style u-joints. With the retainers removed, the u-joint can be pressed out with a C-clamp and a pipe spacer to get one cup out of its bore. Then press the cross in the opposite direction to finagle the u-joint away from the yoke. Ya might have more room to work on the axle end of the driveshaft.