Adam H P15 D30
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Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30
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If you end up needing a generator, I have one off my 49 that worked when removed but needs a rear bushing and brushes.... Free and good for parts. I live in San Bruno and work in Sunnyvale.
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No, just look at it as necessary to free up space for steering linkage.
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Just a thought........ Full fenderwell headers would leave you plenty of room
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Sorry, I don't have any pictures and colum is out of the car. It literally sticks out 1" from the recessed firewall. Then I have 1 u joint going over to the frame, 1 support bearing, second u joint, then a third at the steering box. I have a 71 Firebird clip so the box is next to the radiator support, in front of the suspension. Believe it or not, the HEMI headers are about the same distance from the frame as SBC headers. Thinking back, you are running a stock box or another box in the stock location, My steering arrangement might not work for you?????? Not sure.
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Maybe shorten it a little more. I shortened mine almost to the firewall, used 3 u-joints and a support bearing.
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AHHHHHH..... fellow finegeler
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No, but I got that for free too. A customer of mine had an "old Chrysler engine" in the back of his shop, was going to toss it but it was too heavy. I did him a favor by taking it off his hands. I tend to build cars with hand fabbed parts and only purchase if I can't build it or find it at a swap meet. Passed down from my father
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Yup, that's how my bracing looked. I might have done a transplant if I had another floor, but I didn't. I used all 14ga. except for the tunnel (16ga). lots of strength but a pain to work with. I started with a 1x3 tube across the body mounts under the rear seat back and built foward from there. The bracing was the easy part. All in all, I'm glad I did it the way I did. MUCH stronger than origional. I actually got the car for free, P.O. said it was too far gone to fix. He has since offered to BUY it back now that all the sheetmetal work is mostly done.
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You are so lucky you had good floors. Looks very good...... For a different perspective, here's how I did mine.
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X2 but the starter doesn't know the difference.
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Thanks, I will do so. Only my 49 is not completely stock (close) and my 47 definately is not stock.
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I love the photos, My dad had a 29 Durant model 60 about 20 years ago. Was a 4 door sedan but didn't have the side mounts. Had a Chrysler Flathead in it too. I wish I knew about the show, Would have been nice to been there.
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If you want disc brakes, look for an 8.8 Ford from a 95+ Explorer (might be too narrow though) You can adapt the Explorer rear disc to the 8" and 9". I looked for the "less desireable" tapered tubed" 8" because they are cheap, have gear ratios we need and can use our U bolts. Everyone wants the Maveric 8" for the larger tubes but they are $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$. I don't see the need for rear disc brakes on these old cars.
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I found one out of a 64???? Falcon 6cyl. The spring pads will have to be moved but it's within an inch of the stocker. I can't remember if it has the 3.40 or 3.54 gears and it has the tapered axle tubes (which most people don't want) but allows us to keep our lower spring mounts and same sized u bolts.
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My 49 does the same thing. Engine has about 10k on a rebuild and runs great. I just drive it like a regular clutch and forget about the fluid drive.
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Costco has them. At least they do over on this side of the country.
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Thanks, Going to remove 1 when I put the 8" ford rear in.
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Did you have to strip the frame to metal to use thr POR 15 or did it go over the old stuff? Thanks
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Which spring in the pack did you remove? One of the long ones or a short one? Thinking about the same thing on my 49. Thanks!!
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As an owner of multiple early Hemi's and several Flathead powered vehicles (only 1 now), I would say that the Poly motor has a coolness about it that neither Hemis nor Flatheads have. Plus you just done see them. He's probably going to end up with a V8 in it anyway, doesn't hurt to tear it down to see how bad it may or may not be. On a side note: My first car was a 39 Plym business coupe, running Flathead. My dad's buddy bet me 100.00 that there would be a V8 in it within a year. I always liked the Flatheads so I took the bet. 8 months later there was a 413 and a 4 speed in it. You can't change nature and he's a teenage boy!!!!!
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Yes it works perfectly. I already got the voltage reducers last night. Too much risk. When my father used to convert the TUGs from 6 to 12v the fuel guage never knew the difference but I am not risking it. Ironically they had the 201's in them. United would overhaul them after 2500 - 3000 hours. That's A LOT of miles and they were always revved to the moon. Usually just a re ring and bearing.
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If he is intent on putting a V8 in the car, find a more period correct motor for it. If I could find a 301 or 331 POLY I would think about swapping it out also. Those old Polys are just as cool as a Flathead.
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As long as it isn't 90+ degrees out and I want to drive the Dodge, I drive it. Hell, it has wipers except when accelerating IT'S JUST A CAR......
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I can certainly say my 6v lights were very bright also. The deciding factor for me was when the rear bushing gave out in my generator. Either fix it and still have a generator or convert to 12v and I can add modern conviences as I go. I also added fuses just to be safe. It was more involved than I thought because of the fuses, not the conversion. Still not sure about the fuel guage and clock on 12v, some say they will run on 12v??????? Haven't hooked them up yet.
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An easy way to remove undercoating....
Adam H P15 D30 replied to BobT-47P15's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I always used a propane torch to heat it slightly to soften it. Then scrape it right off. Works for seam sealer and lead also. Stinks pretty bad so make sure the wife isn't home.
