Adam H P15 D30

Hello All, I edited my title so I can keep the same thread going. That said, the previous owner decided to epoxy prime the car black before he put it up for sale about 7 years or so ago. Needless to say I was tired of driving a fading, chalking, primered car after the first year but I pressed on. Also driving a black car gets kinda hot in the summer. In my previous post I was working on getting pops to paint it as I am not a good painter He wasn't too thrilled about the idea so we made a deal, I would wet sand all the old primer off and he would paint the roof and satin clear the entire car. I thought that was the cat's meow until I started wet sanding and wet sanding and wet sanding, you get the idea. After about 40 hours of wet sanding I found a decent older repaint with some obvious red oxide primered spots and some rust under the tail lights I needed to fix. What it used to look like: After A LOT of wet sanding: Bumper aprons were a lost cause with no origional paint to be found, also I had to find a similar green to cover the rust repair below the tailights. Rustoleum hunter green was pretty close so I shot the bumper aprons and the rust repair with that over some red oxide primer. Not a perfect match but it looks like an older grandpa repair.... Used Rustoleum Almond for the roof: Spent the money for a good 2 part automotive Urethane clear since this car never sees a garage and rarely even sees a driveway. A red oxide pin stripe to between the 2 colors to tie it all together? Finished product: I intend to paint the wheels either red oxide color or almond. Jury is still out but opinions welcome! Adam

Very nice job on the headers. Here's one I did for my 23" engine.

Hello, Several of my friends have used Clark's Machine Shop in Burlingame with top-notch results. I know they are NOT CHEAP but then again, nothing is cheap here is it? Adam

Thanks for filling in the blanks Rich. All I saw was an ask for recommendations for a brake upgrade, not a “should I or should I not” question. Sounds like you both have a plan. Having driven many cars from this era I agree the Lockheed brakes are the best as far as drums go, just a PITA, especially if you don’t have the special tools which I never had. Mine were always close but never just right and I think that’s the best someone can ask for without the special tools. Adam

He didn’t ask for opinions about upgrading. Besides Who wants to go through the “set up?” It’s a royal PITA and that’s if you can find the proper tool, let alone pay for it. Then there’s the periodic readjustment and they are still never as good as disc brakes. By the time you buy everything to rebuild the stock brakes, you could’ve bought discs and be better off. Especially in today’s traffic and drivers. OP. Try rustyhope, he’s a member of this forum. Also Scarebird or ECI might have what you need. Adam

Paul, I would take that car to Pleasanton in August for the Goodguys show. He'll sell it there if it's under 10 grand and it runs/drives. Adam

Several on this site have not been able to use the stock 15" wheels with the ECI kit. If you have 16" wheels, they should be fine. If you have 15" wheels and want to keep them, use the Rusty Hope kit.

Drive it!!!!

My Dodge would do that sometimes and also not latch sometimes. I removed, cleaned and lubed the latch up, adjusted the door with the latch out and it's worked flawlessly for a while now. Latch was pretty gooey inside.

If you plan to retain stock 15" wheels, use the Rustyhope kit. Mine went on effortlessly and works very well. Make sure to remove the check valve from the master cylinder and you're good to go... Adam

Here are a few more.... Happy reading Believe it or not, there was some discussion here and 1 more

FWIW, the wipers, and arms off my 47 Ford were a perfect fit on my 49 Dodge

Drill and tap it. I would do it without removing the head. It would take you longer to swap out the gauge and rig up an electrical one than drilling and retapping.

The Transgo is a good kit for the TF, especially with the restrictor for the direct clutches. What ratio intermediate lever are you running? Also, did you remove the accumulator spring? Does Transgo tell you to remove it? I've seen the forward bellville spring break because of removing and/or blocking up the accumulator. FWIW, Adam

Since you're already cutting them up, convert them to paper air filters. Looks will be the same and you don't have to worry about the mess.

When I changed the rear axle in my 49, I ordered a new driveshaft with a slip yoke from Denny's: 1 x [1310SS-3] 1310 Series 3 inch with Spline and Slip Driveshaft for CHEVY, GMC, FORD, DODGE, JEEP, IHC Price: $320.95, Each: $320.95 1 x [2-2-349] Dana Spicer 2-2-349 DODGE Flange Yoke Replacement for old Detroit "POT" Style Ball and Trunion Driveshafts Price: $46.95, Each: $46.95 Adam

Your stock 15" wheels may not fit with the Scarebird kit. My stock 15" wheels fit with Rusty Hope's (olddaddy's) kit. There was a thread not too long ago where the stock 15" wheel didn't fit on a Scarebird kit, had to order new wheels. Adam

Is that with a known reliable gauge? If so, Send it back to the builder. That sounds like excessive bearing clearances.

Temporarily attach a different oil gauge to the engine and check to see if you have the same funny readings.

If you want a brass radiator, Walker is about the best out there. http://www.walkerradiatorworks.com/Radiator-Engine-Cooling-Products/Radiator_Details.asp?rID=603&rY=1942,1943,1944,1945,1946,1947,1948&rM=Plymouth

When I removed it 4 years ago I fully expected to be forced to install residual pressure valves, but I decided to give it a try..... That was 4 years ago and I have never had to pump the brakes to get a pedal, even after sitting for months. I have left them out on other cars and had problems with low master cylinders. Maybe a magic master cylinder? Adam

I always thought this too. In fact my other hot rods all have the residuals front and back with a modern master cylinder. For some reason the stock master cylinder doesn't need them, at least mine has never exhibited symptoms of needing them.

Remove the internal check valve and drive...

There was a thread on here a while back where someone CC'd a few heads from 201-230 engines. I think the intent of the thread was to determine some sort of unsurfaced base line but there were notable differences in the combustion chamber CC's. I did a quick search and couldn't find it but there are differences. I THINK the late 30's 201 heads had the smallest CC but not sure... Adam

Run the timing up till it pings under high load, back off until ping goes away, back off another 2 degrees. That should get you super close as long as it starts well. If is doesn't start well (too advanced) back off accordingly. Specs from 60+ years ago should only be used as a baseline, fuel has changes A LOT since especially octane ratings and burn rates. Set it to where the engine is happiest and who cares what the actual number is. Adam