Jump to content

Adam H P15 D30

Members
  • Posts

    1,316
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30

  1. I combined mine and it seemed to work fine but finicky to adjust it correctly. I worked out because I attached the 8" Ford e-brake cables to the lever on the trans brake.
  2. Ha Ha, changed the title again, maybe it's because I like to keep this adventure all in one place. Decided to use the 440 in a Stude pick-up for my daughter so the 49 remains as-is. In reality I just didn't want to cut it up, running so well and all. Except, I grenaded my starter bendix yesterday so I found a NOS 52-54 unit on ebay for 50 bucks. Not too bad for the older style bendix on 12v for 15 years... Now that I moved out to the country I really am enjoying the car verses Bay Area traffic, so is Clyde
  3. I have heard of the camshaft thing but not very often, mostly from a generation or 2 older than me.
  4. Many manufactures switched from gear oil to ATF in the late 70s to improve cold shifting and a slight bump in fuel mileage. Mopar switched to ATF in their A833 around that time. So yes, I would feel comfortable using ATF in most manual transmissions but especially the O/D transmissions.
  5. @Los_Control I use the Petronix coils I saved from the failed Petronix set ups I remove. Good coils, bad modules... As long as the coil can handle 12v, the HEI module won't care. In fact, running the 1.0 - 1.5 ohm coils just keeps the module cooler.
  6. 4 pin HEI module. Heat sink off of a late 90s LT1
  7. Yeah, I got busted at the HAMB for my Mustang II in my 56 F100... The title of this forum explicitly includes modified vehicles so don't worry about getting shown the door.
  8. I hotrod everything I touch. Nothing is safe from the torch in my garage... But, I am having second thoughts about swapping the 440 into my 49 so it is safe for now...
  9. My clock has been working on 12v - ground for years now. All the points do is wind the clock
  10. Measure from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface, not flanges. While I don't have the measurement you need, I used an 8" form a 64 Falcon and it was slightly narrower. This was on my my 49 Wayfarer which sits on a Plymouth chassis.
  11. Car can sit for months and have a firm pedal, I have found no need for any RP valves. I do have an 8" Ford rear with more modern drum brakes. It could use an adjustable valve in the rear circuit, they will lock up first but barely.
  12. I use the stock one with the internal check valve removed
  13. I did that more than 6 years ago using a GM ignition module and it has been trouble free but you must have 12v. Petronix, not so trouble free...
  14. Here is the only picture I can find. You can see the links inboard of the frame. Frame was narrowed 4" on each side
  15. I used the factory Explorer stabilizer bar and links on my 47. Sorry, I don't have a picture.
  16. Bringing this back from the DEAD..... Put a few thousand miles on it since the work and I have to say they have been trouble free and fun for the most part. That said, the time of the flathead is coming to an end this winter. Nothing wrong but I enjoy hotrods and seem to drive the V8 stuff a lot more, plus it's just time for a change... I will have the engine/trans for sale here first sometime later this year or early 2025. Maybe I'll retitle this thread again or start a new one or nothing but it's getting a 440. Go big or go home?
  17. It's amazing what Rustoleum paint can look like when sprayed with hardener and urethane clear to give the UV protection
  18. Save the gl1 for the transmission and just use a modern gl5 90wt oil for the rear.
  19. I use undercoating inside the fenders only to prevent rock damage visible on the shiny side, applied over paint. Floor pans get painted with enamel with no undercoating. Sound deadener gets installed inside only after painting the metal.
  20. FYI, I've had 6v horns on 12v in 2 of my hotrods for years. No problem and nice and loud!
  21. Pretty sure these are the same size a early HEMI blocks. Hot Heads and others sell screw in core plugs for the issues I mentioned early in this thread. Easily installed in the car.
  22. A Runtz resistor for your fuel gauge. Forget about the radio, you're also changing polarity. Disconnect it Wiper motor is probably vacuum operated Horns don't care Replace horn and starter relays. Starter doesn't care. Clock (if you have one) doesn't care. I used a mid 60s Dart heater blower motor (12v). Change out headlamps and light bulbs to their 12v equivalent. Swap your ammeter wires around since you're changing to negative ground. If you are running more than a 50a alternator, bypass the ammeter. Make sure you're wiring is in good shape or replace it!!
  23. Can't help you with the seat belts as I only have lap belts front and back but I wanted to say that is a nice, clean looking interior.
  24. Ice will crack your block long before any core plug will pop out. They are there to remove casting sand, any other function is a myth.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use