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Adam H P15 D30

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Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30

  1. Yeah, I got busted at the HAMB for my Mustang II in my 56 F100... The title of this forum explicitly includes modified vehicles so don't worry about getting shown the door.
  2. I hotrod everything I touch. Nothing is safe from the torch in my garage... But, I am having second thoughts about swapping the 440 into my 49 so it is safe for now...
  3. My clock has been working on 12v - ground for years now. All the points do is wind the clock
  4. Measure from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface, not flanges. While I don't have the measurement you need, I used an 8" form a 64 Falcon and it was slightly narrower. This was on my my 49 Wayfarer which sits on a Plymouth chassis.
  5. Car can sit for months and have a firm pedal, I have found no need for any RP valves. I do have an 8" Ford rear with more modern drum brakes. It could use an adjustable valve in the rear circuit, they will lock up first but barely.
  6. I use the stock one with the internal check valve removed
  7. I did that more than 6 years ago using a GM ignition module and it has been trouble free but you must have 12v. Petronix, not so trouble free...
  8. Here is the only picture I can find. You can see the links inboard of the frame. Frame was narrowed 4" on each side
  9. I used the factory Explorer stabilizer bar and links on my 47. Sorry, I don't have a picture.
  10. Bringing this back from the DEAD..... Put a few thousand miles on it since the work and I have to say they have been trouble free and fun for the most part. That said, the time of the flathead is coming to an end this winter. Nothing wrong but I enjoy hotrods and seem to drive the V8 stuff a lot more, plus it's just time for a change... I will have the engine/trans for sale here first sometime later this year or early 2025. Maybe I'll retitle this thread again or start a new one or nothing but it's getting a 440. Go big or go home?
  11. It's amazing what Rustoleum paint can look like when sprayed with hardener and urethane clear to give the UV protection
  12. Save the gl1 for the transmission and just use a modern gl5 90wt oil for the rear.
  13. I use undercoating inside the fenders only to prevent rock damage visible on the shiny side, applied over paint. Floor pans get painted with enamel with no undercoating. Sound deadener gets installed inside only after painting the metal.
  14. FYI, I've had 6v horns on 12v in 2 of my hotrods for years. No problem and nice and loud!
  15. Pretty sure these are the same size a early HEMI blocks. Hot Heads and others sell screw in core plugs for the issues I mentioned early in this thread. Easily installed in the car.
  16. A Runtz resistor for your fuel gauge. Forget about the radio, you're also changing polarity. Disconnect it Wiper motor is probably vacuum operated Horns don't care Replace horn and starter relays. Starter doesn't care. Clock (if you have one) doesn't care. I used a mid 60s Dart heater blower motor (12v). Change out headlamps and light bulbs to their 12v equivalent. Swap your ammeter wires around since you're changing to negative ground. If you are running more than a 50a alternator, bypass the ammeter. Make sure you're wiring is in good shape or replace it!!
  17. Can't help you with the seat belts as I only have lap belts front and back but I wanted to say that is a nice, clean looking interior.
  18. Ice will crack your block long before any core plug will pop out. They are there to remove casting sand, any other function is a myth.
  19. I clean and JB weld my core plugs in, mostly on Hemi engines that have a history of blowing them out on hard use. They use the same plugs as our flatheads and still come out when replacing.
  20. May be at an extreme angle when the body is put back on and the suspension compresses
  21. Are the shock mounts welded upside down?
  22. The specs will be different if you plan to run radials.
  23. Cut that clip off and splice it on to an original frame if you must, it might also be too wide... Frame swaps almost always end up looking like frame swaps.
  24. Jack the front wheel off the ground and rock it top to bottom, up and down and look for movement in the kingpin area. Might as well check your tie rod ends while you're at it. Your smart phone should have an angle meter on it, check camber degrees with it before jacking the car up.
  25. I would check your kingpin / bushings on the side that's wearing before anything else. Could also be a bent spindle Probably not toe because it's only 1 side. EDIT: Check wheel bearings also
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