andyd

Sniper, yep, you maybe right, I didn't take a good look at the pic, just appeared at 1st glance to be a riveted type of grease nipple......if its a SAE threaded nipple then at least its undoable....as you say the next problem is to find a new one.....might be easier if one of us posts some to him.........lol..........andyd

When you say the grease nipple is shot what do you mean?....won't let any grease in?........try inserting a thin wire in the grease nipple hole....sometimes the grease just hardens, other times the bushing that the nipple is on has been screwed hard up against the actual shaft and grease can't get past ........I have seen that setup with the nipple press fitted , not screwed in on other parts mainly tierod ends.......I suppose it might be able to be replaced by unscrewing the bush, knocking the fixed nipple off and tapping a thread & screwing a new nipple on but the problem could be that where the nipple lives the metal is very thin & can't ba threaded.....I'd try the wire trick first then maybe unscrew the bush to hopefully get some space for grease to flow.........welcome abaord from Oztralia.......andyd

I can't answer whether there were differences but for me the best looking fender skirts are the ones that fit into the fender wheel opening, those that fit over the opening seem to look to be just an add- on & not really suited to the car.....but thats only my 2 cents worth.........I'd think that there would have been different ones & styles as each brand had different wheel openings........andyd

Couple of things..........have you gone thru the carby at all?.....that would be my 1st thing to check, also have you checked the fuel tank for old gas, water sludge etc........I had a rare in Oz 1948 Chrysler Windsor 50 yrs ago.......apparently a dozen were imported for government use, I've attached the only pics I have of the car, it even had nice Highlander upholstery, every thing worked and I lost the garage I stored it in so had to sell it.................still miss it.......regards from Oztralia......Andy Douglas

And strongly suggest checking the "key" and replacing if there is any wear shown.........key material is usually sold in 12" lengths for a minimal cost, think its 5/16th from memory.....andyd

It might be hung up on the throwout bearing or even stuck in the pilot bushing inside the flywheel........have you removed the inspection cover on the bottom of the bellhousing to check what its like inside?...........when I was young & stupid, ie 16yrs old(54yrs ago) I decided to remove the engine..........undid the rear driveshaft & front shaft bolts.......but it wouldn't come off the parking brake, so undid the gearbox but it wouldn't come away from the bellhousing so undid the engine & pulled the WHOLE SAUSAGE out.........lol........then it was easy to pull the driveshaft from the park brake, the gearbox from the bellhousing and as the engine was now out...........lol......if the bolts are all undone then its just being difficult.........dicuiss its parentage and have another go at it..........lol...........andyd

Bob.....you mentioned the Heater & defoster switches......here in Oz as far as I know a defoster was never available for mopars, at least pre war ones and a heater whilst available thru the dealer would have been an accessory style as far as I know........I ended up puting an English Smiths aftermarket heater/demister in the car but apart from turning it on to see if it works I've never really used it, those demister vents on the dash are ones that I found at a swap meet and again, whilst connected up have never really been used..........even in winter its generally 20C or above........the heater/demister controls are mounted in the stock dash radio holes, the radio is mounted in a spare dash grille as a counldn't bring myself to actually cut up the newly rechromed one.....lol......looks o/k

You will need to speciy what style of dipstick as I've seen long ones that fit into a 3-4" tube and others that fit straight into the hole on the engine block which is a shorter dipstick.....which was your cars?......andyd

Teme.......you have a normal to me, mopar brake drum & wheel attachment........first you need to get the BIGGEST bolt on puller you can find and 1st loosen the centre nut on the axle a couple of threads, say 2 only.......then using 3 normally of those wheel bolts attach the puller and screw its centre threaded bolt hard onto the axle nut...then depending on the style of puller once its hard onto the nut/axle end you give the head on the pullers centre bolt a good wack with a large hammer, maybe two wacks, then screw the centre bolt a bit more, then another wack and continue wacking,screwing until the drum pops , then remove puller etc.........the drum is on a tapered axle with a 5/16"(?) keyway........inspect the key and replace if any wear present........I've attached a pic of the drum puller I bought 50 yrs ago to do my cars drums when stock......it has never met a drum it didn't like...lol........regards from Oztralia.....andyd

My 1940 Dodge has been 12 volts, 318 poly etc since 1973 and I've used the stock headlight switch since with 12 volts thru it without an issue and a voltage resistor in the power circuit for the fuel gauge, also stock ignition switch and starter button(on dash as all RHD cars have), toggle switch is electric fan and black button is the windscreen washer, wipers use the stock toggle switch under the dash edge......so far after 51 yrs no problems........lol......andyd

Well, I don't know if this helps or adds to the confusion but when I had my 1941 Plymouth Coupe, sold in 2013 I ended up owning a spare mopar gearbox......didn't really look at it at first, but on close inspection I found that it had the speedo cable fitting on the Oz drivers side or US passenger side BUT even more unusual was that the shifter linkages were also on the OZ Drivers side or US passenger side and it had no mounting for the driveshaft parking brake assembly..........eventually I found that it was from a 1957-1962 Oz only Chrysler Royal which were based on the 1953/54 Plymouth with 55/56 Plymouth fenders(see pic).............another anomaly that I've since discovered was that the Chrysler Royals, at least the 6cylinder standard trans cars had the parking brake on the rear brake drums which tallys with the type of gearbox I had.......I have some pics somewhere If only I could find them.....lol...........andyd

Eneto.....T J Richards were the main tho' not exclusive Mopar body building company who where bought out by Chrysler to form Chrysler Australia......Oz mopars up till possibily 1948 had a small brass badge on the top of the firewall or a TJR stamping on the passenger side of the vertical firewall...........TJR also build bodies for other US & English car companies up till the late 30's............my Oz 1940 Dodge has a T J Richards built bodysimilar to but different to the 1940 Plymouth that its based upon....note the external door hinges, trunk lid shape but Plymouth fenders,head & tailights, bumpers etc.......andyd

When I first restored/rodded my 1940 Dodge I hadn't got around to installing blinkers/turn signals and got gently tapped on the arse once by a guy that didn't see apparently my hand signal..........apart from a small dent in the rear fender and a slightly bent rear bumper iron there was no real damage and as the car wasn't painted all was o/k.....I think I got some money from the guy but as this was 50yrs ago, now can't recall.......lol.........but I do remember installing working turn signals from a motorbike soon after.........yeh, hand signals might have worked 70 yrs ago but then repair panels were more available too....throw some turn signals on the car........it will thank you for your concern...........lol......regards from Oz.....andyd

Just checked Old Era Services and they appear to be a reincarnation of Peter Jacksons business from the 1970's when it was based at St Marys in western Sydney......he was the go to guy back then for all types of restoration stuff.........andyd

Glen, welcome aboard.........got any pics........we love pics.......regards from sunny South Grafton NSW.........Andy Douglas

John, welcome aboard, these guys know their stuff........as for the correct door seals here in Oz Richards then Chrysler in South Oz sometimes used the USA stuff, othertimes maybe not.......I'd get in touch with Andy Bernbaums, I have delt with them for over 30yrs and have found them to be good to work with.......I've no direct knowledge of what seals your 1953 car needs as I have played with 1940/41 models but the # 260.077 would seam to be a good option.......I'd also suggest checking with Clark Rubber and Old Auto Rubber here in Oz, as they may have a similar product without the cost of freight which is going to be high........although you are looking for body stuff do NOT mention if your car has the 25" engine that its a "KEW".......this term is only used in Australia and will completely confuse the Yanks......lol......I'd also suggest contacting the Chrysler Restorers Club of Australia, even tho' my car is a hotrod & has been since 1973 they turn a blind eye to that and maybe able to assist as well.....regards, Andy Douglas

Vintage6t......how does that rear seat work?..........as I mentioned re the 1941 Coupe I had the seat back lifted up and each small seat base folded up towards the rear wall then the seat back was brought down giving a larger area for luggage......is the convertible the same?.........andyd

GregG mentioned the Plymouth 40/41 Coupes with the rear seats.......AFAIK 1940 had small side folding rear seats whereas 1941 had 2 small rear folding seats with a sindle wide rear seat back that lifted up to allow the small seat bases to be folded up against the rear cabin wall.......my 1941 Coupe was actually listed as an ASC...Auxillary Seat Coupe ...see attached pic.........from 1942 the longer roofed Club Coupe with a proper fixed rear seat was introduced in the Plymouth line and the 1940/41 short roof Plymouth body continued till 1948 as the "Business Coupe".............andyd

Solly, welcome aboard from sunny South Grafton, Oztralia..........nice car mate!!............andyd

The US cars are slightly different to the Oz assembled cars I'm more famialr with but my experience is that its easier to install the "bailey" channel as I call it with the window removed but , at least getting the bailey channel down the side, here in Oz I've used pop rivets to hold the bailey channel against the door inner , doesn't need many pop rivets, maybe every 6-8"........the area in the window opening , again I have used pop rivets, 3 or 4 to hold the channel and its good to go..........the divider post piece as Plymouthy mentions is the problem child tho.......I've not replaced that on my car so can't offer any advice..............regards from Oztralia.......andyd

Only Mopar...can you clarify exactly what you need?.......the door glass fits into a metal channel that has the winder arms attached to......do you need this channel.......or do you need the what I know as "Bailey" channel which is "fur" lined channel that the window edge slides up & down on........there is also a single edged piece of this "fur" or fuzzy stuff where the opening for the window is that acts against the inside & outside of the door glass when it moves up & down........apologies if I have confused the issue even more.......andyd

Loren........good information...........tho' here in Oz all mopar products made or sold here from WW2 owards were Plymouth based, ie, Plymouth, Dodge & DeSoto...and the only Chrysler badged cars from 1957 to 1962, the Oz only Chrysler Royals were 53/54 Plymouth based.......lol......regards from Oztralia.........andyd

Those blue urethane sway bar bushings were found at the local spare parts place here in South Grafton, Oztralia...........the blue ones are the 2nd set I've used....the original ones I used were red...lol.......but could only find blue ones a couple of years ago when I replaced the worn red ones........lol.......I can't recall whether I made new clamps,used the original clamps or found some others that were similar.......the sway bars been there for 45 yrs or so.....lol........andyd

Dunno if this is any use as we never got 7 passenger or limo mopars after WW2 but if you don't have any window channels at all it maybe worth finding a 46-48 Dodge Parts Manual to at least be able to possibly see what you need or what could fit............ I'd also think that the window channels for the front doors from a standard length 4dr Sedan would be the same as the 7 passenger car, not sure about the rear doors but the channels should be the same basic design & operation and you maybe able to adapt the short rear door pieces to your longer rear doors..........the front window wing vents should be the same in all closed body cars, ie, 2,4 door and 7 passenger or Limo ..........1/4 vents, AFAIK have the glass held in with what I know as "setting tape" and any good glass shop should be able to fit the 1/4 vent glass........andyd

Actually the "street rod" term was even used in the 1950's to differentiate from the speedway/dirt track "hot rods".....but no one drove their car with rust etc and called it finished.......it was always a work in progress......lol.....see my pic of my Dodge with the partially finished widened rear fenders........before a thin skim of "bog" & paint.....andyd