andyd

This thread has had some good ideas about the various ways to "chrome" the outside parts like bumpers etc however if you are looking to restore the various small chrome pieces on the dash and various interior items there are a couple of susgestions I can offer as a scale model builder......there are 3 products that while they are not proper chrome plating may help as follows.......for some areas there is a product called Bare Metal Foil which is a very thin aluminium adhesive backed foil that might be suitable for dash strips etc then another product called Alclad11 which is a thin paint which is sprayed over a gloss black enamel.....a gloss black enamel paint is reflective and the "Chrome" version of Alclad11 essentially turns the black into reflective "chrome'......the third product is fairly recent and is called Molotow Chrome Pens...these are availble in 1,2 or 3mm diameter tips and give a brilliant "chrome" like finish........now all these are products that I use in my modelling hobby at various times...........the "chrome" moldings around the windows, and wheel openings on these model cars are either Bare Metal Foil or Molotow Chrome pens......the bumpers and wheels on the red, maroon & green model are the normal model kit chrome parts but all the chrome parts on the yellow car(1972 Holden) are the foil or Molotow pens........ ......anyway this might help for small interior parts.......Andy Douglas

david.....that pic shows whats called the "spindle" or "upright".....the king pin should be a close fit in it with the lock pin inseted from one side or the other to lock the kingpin........when installing new kingpins the new kingpin bushes are press fitted into the stub axle from top & bottom then the kingpin bushes are REAMED to suit the diameter of the kingpin.....ensure the bushes are installed with the hole in the side of the bushes aligning with the grease nipple hole in the side of the stub axle..........you state the kingpin won't go thru the spindle hole??.........are you sure you have the correct kingpin set?..........check that the edge of the hole hasn't been worn with a "lip"........if you are referring to the "lockpin" that holds the kingpin it "should" fit from either side but it has a tapered side that locates against the kingpin and holds it in place.............dunno if any of this has been much help...........andyd

Hepcat......get a copy of Oz's Street Machine magazine & contact some of the advertisers also places like Rare Spares might be able to suggest somewhere, as FX-EK Holdens use a similar hood closure arrangement.........I can't offer any direct experience as my Oz 40 Dodge has side opening hoods......andyd

Ffreeb.......what I meant was that the general proceedure or way in which the cluster attaches to the dash should be similar.......you've certainly got your work cut out for you.....lol.......whats the rest of the car like rust wise?.........andyd

I have not worked on a 1941 Dodge however I've had my 1940 D15 since 1971 and from what I've seen the gauge cluster is basically the same arrangement .......the whole cluster maybe easier to remove than trying to do each gauge individually and as your temp gauge is buggered anyway then thats one less issue to start........lol.........the cluster is its similar in the way it attaches to the dash will have small nuts(3/8 or 7/16th from memory) holding the cluster to the dash......also check the high beam indicator as that "may" have a globe socket that will need to have the globe socket pulled away from the socket and then the socket undone from the piece that the high beam fitting screws into..........if similar to the 1940 then the gauge cluster has a metal piece that fits between the high beam socket........again I can't be certain if the 41 cluster is held in a similar way to the 1940 but it wouldn't surprise me........I've attached a pic of the 1940 dash cluster that may help to explain why I think it maybe similar........regards from Oz......andyd

Agreed, clever use of a tool...andyd

Always liked Airflows, quite rare here in Oz, tho' when I lived in Springwood in the Blue Mountains west of Sydney in the 1980's, early 1990's there was an old guy in the neighbourhood who had a Chrysler Airflow 4dr sedan he drove around & after checking out the car one day in town we struck up a conversation, he invited me to call around to his place which I did & in his backyard under cover was his next project, an unrestored 1934 Chrysler Imperial 2door Coupe..........just like the 1934 DeSoto pictured but much longer......lol..........we moved from that area to where we live now soon after & I've heard that the old guy passed but that Imperial Airflow still remains in my memory, hopefully getting the attention it deserved........beautiful cars........andyd

Yep, its doable, I did it on the 41 Plymouth Coupe I had....admittedly it was a factory RHD car which shouldn't make any difference , if anything a LHD car might have more clearance, but from memory I undid the drag link from the tierods then undid the 3 bolts holding the steering box and was able to gently lever the box away from the frame enough to remove & replace the isolators......it made quite a difference to the steering feel in the car............I've always found that the isolators are one thing thats "forgotten" when an issue with the wayward steering is discussed........andyd

Disc brakes can be used without a power booster but the pedal effort is generally quite high.......it is possible to use a remote mounted power booster that is connected just to the disc brakes only.........I can't help with the pedal ratio tho'........andyd

Ozjohn, welcome aboard, I can't help re the steering wheel but as the Oz mopars, Dodge,Plymouth & DeSoto were all essentailly badge engineered & Plymouth based the steering wheel could be from either of the 3 brands tho' Robins answer maybe the correct one......whats the rest of the car like?........from the pic posted it would seem to be in good nick.........got any more pics?......we all love pics......lol..........regards from South Grafton, NSW.......Andy Douglas

Sniper, yep, you maybe right, I didn't take a good look at the pic, just appeared at 1st glance to be a riveted type of grease nipple......if its a SAE threaded nipple then at least its undoable....as you say the next problem is to find a new one.....might be easier if one of us posts some to him.........lol..........andyd

When you say the grease nipple is shot what do you mean?....won't let any grease in?........try inserting a thin wire in the grease nipple hole....sometimes the grease just hardens, other times the bushing that the nipple is on has been screwed hard up against the actual shaft and grease can't get past ........I have seen that setup with the nipple press fitted , not screwed in on other parts mainly tierod ends.......I suppose it might be able to be replaced by unscrewing the bush, knocking the fixed nipple off and tapping a thread & screwing a new nipple on but the problem could be that where the nipple lives the metal is very thin & can't ba threaded.....I'd try the wire trick first then maybe unscrew the bush to hopefully get some space for grease to flow.........welcome abaord from Oztralia.......andyd

I can't answer whether there were differences but for me the best looking fender skirts are the ones that fit into the fender wheel opening, those that fit over the opening seem to look to be just an add- on & not really suited to the car.....but thats only my 2 cents worth.........I'd think that there would have been different ones & styles as each brand had different wheel openings........andyd

Couple of things..........have you gone thru the carby at all?.....that would be my 1st thing to check, also have you checked the fuel tank for old gas, water sludge etc........I had a rare in Oz 1948 Chrysler Windsor 50 yrs ago.......apparently a dozen were imported for government use, I've attached the only pics I have of the car, it even had nice Highlander upholstery, every thing worked and I lost the garage I stored it in so had to sell it.................still miss it.......regards from Oztralia......Andy Douglas

And strongly suggest checking the "key" and replacing if there is any wear shown.........key material is usually sold in 12" lengths for a minimal cost, think its 5/16th from memory.....andyd

It might be hung up on the throwout bearing or even stuck in the pilot bushing inside the flywheel........have you removed the inspection cover on the bottom of the bellhousing to check what its like inside?...........when I was young & stupid, ie 16yrs old(54yrs ago) I decided to remove the engine..........undid the rear driveshaft & front shaft bolts.......but it wouldn't come off the parking brake, so undid the gearbox but it wouldn't come away from the bellhousing so undid the engine & pulled the WHOLE SAUSAGE out.........lol........then it was easy to pull the driveshaft from the park brake, the gearbox from the bellhousing and as the engine was now out...........lol......if the bolts are all undone then its just being difficult.........dicuiss its parentage and have another go at it..........lol...........andyd

Bob.....you mentioned the Heater & defoster switches......here in Oz as far as I know a defoster was never available for mopars, at least pre war ones and a heater whilst available thru the dealer would have been an accessory style as far as I know........I ended up puting an English Smiths aftermarket heater/demister in the car but apart from turning it on to see if it works I've never really used it, those demister vents on the dash are ones that I found at a swap meet and again, whilst connected up have never really been used..........even in winter its generally 20C or above........the heater/demister controls are mounted in the stock dash radio holes, the radio is mounted in a spare dash grille as a counldn't bring myself to actually cut up the newly rechromed one.....lol......looks o/k

You will need to speciy what style of dipstick as I've seen long ones that fit into a 3-4" tube and others that fit straight into the hole on the engine block which is a shorter dipstick.....which was your cars?......andyd

Teme.......you have a normal to me, mopar brake drum & wheel attachment........first you need to get the BIGGEST bolt on puller you can find and 1st loosen the centre nut on the axle a couple of threads, say 2 only.......then using 3 normally of those wheel bolts attach the puller and screw its centre threaded bolt hard onto the axle nut...then depending on the style of puller once its hard onto the nut/axle end you give the head on the pullers centre bolt a good wack with a large hammer, maybe two wacks, then screw the centre bolt a bit more, then another wack and continue wacking,screwing until the drum pops , then remove puller etc.........the drum is on a tapered axle with a 5/16"(?) keyway........inspect the key and replace if any wear present........I've attached a pic of the drum puller I bought 50 yrs ago to do my cars drums when stock......it has never met a drum it didn't like...lol........regards from Oztralia.....andyd

My 1940 Dodge has been 12 volts, 318 poly etc since 1973 and I've used the stock headlight switch since with 12 volts thru it without an issue and a voltage resistor in the power circuit for the fuel gauge, also stock ignition switch and starter button(on dash as all RHD cars have), toggle switch is electric fan and black button is the windscreen washer, wipers use the stock toggle switch under the dash edge......so far after 51 yrs no problems........lol......andyd

Well, I don't know if this helps or adds to the confusion but when I had my 1941 Plymouth Coupe, sold in 2013 I ended up owning a spare mopar gearbox......didn't really look at it at first, but on close inspection I found that it had the speedo cable fitting on the Oz drivers side or US passenger side BUT even more unusual was that the shifter linkages were also on the OZ Drivers side or US passenger side and it had no mounting for the driveshaft parking brake assembly..........eventually I found that it was from a 1957-1962 Oz only Chrysler Royal which were based on the 1953/54 Plymouth with 55/56 Plymouth fenders(see pic).............another anomaly that I've since discovered was that the Chrysler Royals, at least the 6cylinder standard trans cars had the parking brake on the rear brake drums which tallys with the type of gearbox I had.......I have some pics somewhere If only I could find them.....lol...........andyd

Eneto.....T J Richards were the main tho' not exclusive Mopar body building company who where bought out by Chrysler to form Chrysler Australia......Oz mopars up till possibily 1948 had a small brass badge on the top of the firewall or a TJR stamping on the passenger side of the vertical firewall...........TJR also build bodies for other US & English car companies up till the late 30's............my Oz 1940 Dodge has a T J Richards built bodysimilar to but different to the 1940 Plymouth that its based upon....note the external door hinges, trunk lid shape but Plymouth fenders,head & tailights, bumpers etc.......andyd

When I first restored/rodded my 1940 Dodge I hadn't got around to installing blinkers/turn signals and got gently tapped on the arse once by a guy that didn't see apparently my hand signal..........apart from a small dent in the rear fender and a slightly bent rear bumper iron there was no real damage and as the car wasn't painted all was o/k.....I think I got some money from the guy but as this was 50yrs ago, now can't recall.......lol.........but I do remember installing working turn signals from a motorbike soon after.........yeh, hand signals might have worked 70 yrs ago but then repair panels were more available too....throw some turn signals on the car........it will thank you for your concern...........lol......regards from Oz.....andyd

Just checked Old Era Services and they appear to be a reincarnation of Peter Jacksons business from the 1970's when it was based at St Marys in western Sydney......he was the go to guy back then for all types of restoration stuff.........andyd

Glen, welcome aboard.........got any pics........we love pics.......regards from sunny South Grafton NSW.........Andy Douglas