Bobacuda

I have had three head gaskets in three different flathead 6 Mopar vehicles go out over the years. All three got water in the oil. You would see white smoke (steam) when the gasket blew, they would spit water with the exhaust, and the oil on the dipstick would look like curdled milk.

The black tape on my B4B was adhesive. After I disconnected the line in each harness, I labeled where the line came from. When in doubt at the other end, I used an ohm-meter to determine where the line went, then I labeled that end as well. Once all of the wires were labeled, I removed that section of the wiring harness. When I built the new section, I cut and peeled the tape back to see the color coding on the wire. So, you can ring it out with an ohm-meter or you can strip back the tape to confirm the color. WARING - the old wire's insulation will fall apart readily as you expose it.

Does it make noise when idling in neutral, but goes away when you press down on the clutch? If so, have you checked the throw out bearing? I have gone through a number of them on old Mopars. BTW. some throw out bearings have a grease fitting.

Learned to drive in a '51 Dodge truck in a hay field about 1964 (I was 12 yrs old). My brother and I became partners in a '41 Plymouth in '66 (a mistake on my part). Flatheads only, I have owned a '51 Plymouth, a '58 Dodge truck and my '53 Dodge truck (got it in '75 - the truck in my avatar). I have worked on my family's and my personal flatheads, as well as all sorts of them at the full service Sinclair gas station I worked at as a kid (best job I ever had). And like the others, I am continually learning more from the other folks on this site.

I always check boneyards for any that aren't total beer can material and I am convinced their real name should be "Holy Grail Bars," since they are made from pure unobtanium.

And the website ate the photo. Let's see if this works... And it did not. How do I take a 3.4 photo and make a 3.0 or less photo out of it

Our local volunteer fire department has an annual car show. I missed it last year, but I was able to take my B-4-B to it this year (won Best Original Truck class). I am not into the trophies, but I was on Cloud 9 when the man I bought the truck from 42 years ago stopped by the truck to visit for a couple of hours. I had tried to buy the truck (parked, bed off, not running for at least 5 years) from his father - the original owner (Gilbert Toepfer - pronounced "Teffer"), but he would not sell. When Mr. Toepfer passed away, his son Marvin called my folks and asked if I wanted to buy the truck from his dad's estate - $100 back in 1975. Marvin is on the right, I am the one in need of a wide-angle lens on the left. He is now 81 yrs young and still quite sharp. We talked all things "old Dodge truck" and our hometown. It made his day as much as it did my son's and mine. Marvin told me that he never remembered the truck looking this nice since it was always a work truck. Because of its work status, he's pretty sure that no "back in the day" photos exist of it (but he will look). BTW, the man in the lawn chair on the left was showing his 1971 Barracuda (not a 'Cuda) convertible. He is the original owner. He joked that my truck was bringing the folks in, then they would look at his Barracuda to be polite. His car actually took top place at the show.

My truck came with 4:11 gears, 3 on the tree with Fluid Drive and 16" wheels - 16 tooth speedometer gear. Somewhere, I have another such gear from a 1951 non-Fluid Drive truck (I assume it had 16" tires), 16 tooth gear. I also have a 16 tooth speedo gear from a 1948 Dodge Coupe with Fluid Drive and 15" tires - 16 tooth speedometer gear. I am now learning to use the MPH app on my phone...

My speedometer gear has 16 teeth. I have scavenged a couple of others and they also have 16 teeth. I have heard there are also factory 14 & 15 tooth gears, but I have yet to find one and I have no idea what they would do to the speedometer reading.

"...I would rather give it to someone that really wants it and is willing to put in the work to bring it back." BRENT! Restraint....restraint!! Self-control,,,

Is yours a Gyromatic or a Fluid Drive? (Found this on the HAMB) "Chrylsler applied the term Fluid Drive to a number of different applications. Most common was Dodge's Fluid drive which was a regular 3 speed transmission with a regular clutch and throw out bearing bolted to a 1 to 1 fluid coupler. No torque multiplication, in actuality it was a 1 to .95 deal. It did allow you to select one gear by using the clutch, then by using the brake and gas pedal drive around albeit not very briskly, or you could drive it just like a three speed of the day. Gyromatic was introduced in 49 or 50 and was Dodge's version of the M-6 semi automatic. As stated before the clutch was used to select a drive range, either low or high, then with a series governors solenoids, igntion interuptors, etc. the tranny would shift up after 12 mph with a release gas pedal, and a sufficient amount of time. Later versions of these had a slight torque multiplication factor. This transmission was very similar to DeSoto's Tip Toe. Was used through 54/55 when the Powerflite 2 speed fully automatic (precursor to the Torqueflite) was introduced." If you want an automatic, look for a newer flathead 6 car with a Powerflite or a Torqueflite - you might even find one of the later 50 model engines with a 2bbl carb. Or, rebuild your engine and get a Wilcap adaptor for the automatic transmission you want (http://www.wilcap.com/chryslerfh.html). While there, check out Wilson's flathead 6 in the photos - think how nice that would look in your car... A Fluid Drive is quirky, different and sometimes a pain, but I have to admit that I have learned to appreciate it. Ask Don Coatney how he likes his. Oh, and once again, you would have the Wow factor of having the only car at a show with Fluid Drive, and by being the only guy there that knows how it works.

Joe, be sure to post your results. My speedometer is about 15% too slow.

Way back when I had a '51 Plymouth that I pulled the engine in: 1. Take lots of photos, bag and tag everything you remove. Photos and notes are your friend. 2. Remove the hood. 3. Disconnect and remove the battery. 4. Drain the radiator and engine block 5. Remove the fan. 6. Remove all hoses and pull the radiator. 7. Disconnect the fuel line. 8. Disconnect the carb linkage. 9. Disconnect the exhaust pipe. 10. Remove the carb, intake and exhaust manifolds (they are bolted together). IMPORTANT - There are two well-hidden bolts or studs that go through the exhaust manifold into the block, pretty much down low, one on each side of carb. If you are not familiar, look online. You will not see them from the top, but you will be able to feel the holes to get a wrench on them. Plan on lots of broken studs. 1. Disconnect the oil pressure gauge line. 2. Remove the generator. 3. Disconnect all wires to engine. 4. Disconnect the driveshaft and pull the transmission. 5. Remove the throwout bearing, clutch and flywheel. If your car has Fluid Drive, you will have a “power coupler” (think torque converter) and not a flywheel to remove. 6. Pull two head bolts and connect a chain for your lift. I did not pull the head, at this time, but others do. Support engine 1. I left the bell housing in place, so I removed the bolts holding the engine at the bell housing first. 2. Remove the bolts holding the front motor mount. 3. While one person kept the engine from hitting anything, I used the engine hoist to lift the engine out of the engine bay. Slight downward tilt to the back. Make sure the crank gets clear of the bell housing or it will drive you nuts trying to figure out what is holding the engine to the bell housing. After I had it out, I found that the current engine stands are lousy for this engine. It took a lot of engine stand manipulation to make it stand right and the engine wanted to flip the stand when it was rotated. I have seen that other members have made engine stands to facilitate the work and to run the reassembled engine before putting it back in. If I ever do another one of these, I will definitely make a run stand to allow for much easier tuning and setting the valves when hot. Anyhow, this is what I did. It was fun working on and displaying an engine that damn few people have. Want it to look old school cool? Ribbed head, dual exhaust, dual carbs, slightly better cam, electronic ignition… Depends on what you want. Good luck.

Beautiful car. Based on it's condition and low mileage, if it were mine, I would keep the flathead and add AC. But, that's just me. As far as the cost of rebuilding the engine, well, you never know until you open it up. You are going to have to pull it anyway if you go the 360 route, so you can make your decision at that time. My experience has been that it costs no more, and no less to rebuild a flathead than it does a "modern" engine. However, the flathead sure goes back in easier and everything fits. On top of that, it will get lots of love at the shows. Good luck.

Makes sense to be concerned. When my truck's engine was still assembled, the machine shop blasted it, then tore it down and tanked everything. I was afraid there was some reason other than stray sand at the start of the process to be concerned about. I agree, I would not do it to the engine after the rebuild.

Ok, I'll ask. What is wrong with sandblasting the block? If I were to do it, it would only be external, not internal blasting.

My B4B has Fluid Drive. I have seen that using it affects the oil pressure, but I think that is caused by affecting engine rpm. Normally, when warm the engine has just about 40 lbs oil pressure. If I don't put the clutch in and come to a stop, the engine will "load," rpm's drop and the oil pressure will drop to about 5 lbs pressure. Based on this, the Fluid Drive in my truck has an impact on the oil pressure, but not in the way a Hy-Drive system would.

I have seen one at least once in the past three years motoring around San Antonio. The origin of the OMWB predates the Astro van (data from Oscar Mayer to Wikipedia): There are eight active Wienermobiles. Year Manufacturer/Builder Chassis Engine 1936 General Body Company – Chicago, Illinois Purpose-built chassis N/A 1952 Gerstenslager – Wooster, Ohio Dodge chassis N/A 1958 Brooks Stevens Willys Jeep chassis N/A 1969 Oscar Mayer – Madison, Wisconsin Chevrolet chassis with Ford Thunderbird taillights V6 engine 1975 Plastics Products – Milwaukee, Wisconsin fibreglass/styrofoam replica of 1969 V6 engine 1988 Stevens Automotive Corporation – Milwaukee, Wisconsin Chevrolet van chassis with Ford Thunderbird taillights V6 engine 1995 Harry Bentley Bradley for Carlin Manufacturing – Fresno, California Purpose-built chassis with Pontiac Grand Am headlights, Pontiac Trans Am taillights N/A 2000 Craftsmen Industries – St. Charles, Missouri GMC W-series chassis 5700 Vortec V8 2001 Craftsmen Industries - San Antonio, Texas RAM 1500-series chassis, flipped axle 5.2L Magnum V8 2004 Prototype Source – Santa Barbara, California GMC W-series chassis with Pontiac Firebird taillights 6.0L 300–5700 Vortec V8 2008 Prototype Source – Santa Barbara, California MINI Cooper S Hardtop 1.6L Turbocharged I-4

On my B4B, I put the front part on first, then the hood to hold it in place, set the inner fenders in place and attached the fenders. Once the fenders were attached, but tightened down, I attached the inner fenders. Lining up the fenders was a PITA. Some minor repairs to fender mounting brackets caused the original alignment to not be obvious. I forget who, but someone told me later it would have been easier to line up if I had assembled the grille and fenders off the truck, set that in place, then attached the hood and the inner fenders.

My B4B has its flathead 6 and I use a "High Efficiency" core radiator from these folks. Direct bolt in - no mods. I have a 160 thermostat with a 3/16 bypass hole drilled in it. So far, on 90+ degree days here in Texas, that new radiator has held the temp to about 150 max. The temp will get up to 160 on idle, but once the air starts moving through the radiator, the temp drops rapidly. I have driven my truck about 50 miles and put my hand on the hood, and the radiator, without burning myself. I have either a non-pressure, or 2 lb cap, can't remember. Since you are running the AMC inline 6, I would think that you need a radiator that is made to handle that engine. Are you running an automatic and A/C with it...if so, more demand on the cooling system. If you look on the attached website, they make radiators that will fit these trucks that will cool automatics and high horsepower engines. They are easy to talk to on the phone and quite helpful. There are less expensive options, but I know their's fits and works without modifications. http://www.usradiator.com/dodge-truck-1948-54-all-radiator.html

Great advice...I hope I never need it. Glad to hear you got the attention you needed in time.

That head and carb setup looks very nice - would be a great engine for some sort of "open hood" hot rod. I am jealous of the old school boat guys. Every Mopar flathead I have ever owned (land vehicles) were not reliable when wet. Unless I went very slow, the the engines start to miss like crazy or totally die while trying to go through low water crossings or during driving rain (lots of water on the road splashing up). I would have to stop, get out a dry rag and the WD-40 to dry inside the distributor cap, the points and the plugs to get it going again. I have always been impressed that someone figured out how to keep Mopar flatheads running in a boat without running a military style, waterproof ignition. I am convinced if I owned a boat with a Mopar flathead, I would be the guy in the lake with the non-running engine, trying to get it dry enough to get me back to land.

My LWB B4B had 6.50 x 16's on it. I know the rims were stock.

Two doors, two aprons. The concrete guy made it a better price that way, rather than fill out the 2' x 16' space in between. Less fill, steel and concrete for him to buy and resell me - he did the aprons for about $4.50 a sq. ft. Slab was $6.50. Lots of fill as you go left to right in the photo.

Construction done. Roll up doors coming on Friday, followed by lift and electricity later this month.