Bobacuda

Always expect something in an exhaust system that has sat for a spell. When I fired up my truck after a 10 yr nap, it burped up a large amount of acorns and a mouse nest (I did not see any mice). Impressed the heck out of my family

Old mechanics told me to shellac the entire gasket if I wanted to make certain it would work. However, based on no water in the oil and no oil in the water, I agree with Tim. Drop the exhaust at the manifold and see if it still makes the funky fog. It has never happened to me, so I don't know the symptoms, but if the fuel pump leaked gas back into the oil, would that make the funky smoke JXC is getting?

Have to admit, that truck is proof that just because you can do it does not mean you should do it. Glad it's not around here so I will never have to see it again...until the parts show up on ebay.

48Dodger has a very good writeup. Another good source is "How to Build Chrysler, Plymouth, Dodge/Hot Rods", by Tex Smith (Author). I bought my copy at a Hlf-Priced book store, for MUCH less than the price I saw on Amazon. Maybe you could hire 48Dodger and his son to put a Volare front end under yours (he also put a T-Bird IRS under his truck)...

Coolant smelling, white vapor is at a minimum a head gasket leak. Is your oil milky? Did you have the head checked to see if it needed milling? I have never had any problems with a FelPro head gasket. Did you put any gasket cement (like Indian Head Gasket Shellac) on it, specifically around the water passages? Last time I went through this, I had to have the head milled (minimal amount), then I used Indian Head on a FelPro head gasket, torqued it all down according to specs, worked great. As my old man said, "If it wasn't frustrating, it wouldn't be much of a hobby."

Get a copy of Tex Smith's "How to Build Plymouth, Chrysler, Dodge/Hot Rods." He has shock relocation and "junkyard" disc brake info. I think he used Olds Tornado front discs. And do us all a favor, post lots of photos and info on your build and the race (think Bamford Garage vacation posts). I have to admit, I have been thinking of this type of project as well, but budget and time makes me realize I would be happy just to see photos of your car in action and the results. Oops. Did not see that I was not commenting on the most recent posts. Oh well, Tex's book is still a good read.

I have used three from the list. I got the most bang for the buck product wise from Clesters and I will use them on future projects.

First would be the old Oliver Row Crop 77 tractor at the farm, followed several years later by the farm's 1952 Dodge 1/2 ton, tall side, short wheel base truck. My (not the wife's or the kids vehicles) I have daily driven 7 Mopes ('41 up) + two Mazdas and one Nissan. I always considered working in the gas station as a kid a bonus. I got to drive a King Midget car, a Crosley, a Hudson, several Packards & Nash, Studebakers, Internationals (and a Knox), Ramblers, AMC's, and everything (except a LaSalle) that the Big Three cranked out (loved the Muscle Car era), as well as pretty much everything the Japanese and Germans were sending here in the 60's and '70's.

Just want to say I liked Knuckleharley's post because he has many of the same problems many of us do (and for many of the same reasons), but he isn't whining or making excuses - he is simply telling us how he sucks it up and deals with it. I truly appreciate that attitude.

Thanks. Much better.

One problem with the new format I am having is with long-running posts, like "Let's see pictures of your truck," started in 2006. When I click on it, I automatically go to the first (2006) post. Interesting, but I really don't want to wade through 10 yrs of posts to get to the most recent. If anyone knows how to make the forum posts read from "newest to oldest," please share the info. I have not been able to figure it out (but I am a Luddite)

Two folks interviewing for the same job. Both were excellent candidates - it was dead even. Finally, the boss said, "I need creativity for this job...and someone that can think on their feet. Here's a piece of paper and a pen. You have 5 minutes to write me a verse of a poem that uses the word 'Timbuktu." Both candidates were stunned, but they gave it a shot. The first one read his: "While traveling in a foreign land, I came across a caravan. I asked where they were bound to, Their destination...Timbuktu." He impressed everyone, until then the second one read his: "Me and Tim a hunting went - Found three ladies in a tent. There was three of them, and just us two... So I bucked one and Tim bucked two."

Why don't they play poker at the zoo? Too many cheetahs...

I have used a Roberts and a Steele gasket. The Steele is better - and more expensive...and I still fear I will drown if I drive in the rain. If I have to do it again, I will try Clesters. The price is right and it can't fit any worse than I have already experienced.

Quite often play in the ends of the drag link is a major cause of steering problems. Be sure and check your tie rod ends and the drag link ends (easy to do) before assuming that the steering boxneeds "help." My B4B had lots of free play in the steering. First I centered its wheels like I was driving straight, then I crawled under the truck and had my son move the steering wheel slowly left then right. I watched the ends of the drag link and looked for free play - that's where my problem was, and it wasn't much free play. I could tell it was free play because the pitman arm would move, prior to the drag link moving. Both ends of the drag link had some free play. A little free play at the drag link or tie rod ends translates to a lot of free play at the steering wheel. I replaced the drag link and that eliminated the large amount of free play at the steering wheel. Once you have eliminated the drag link or the tie rod ends as the source of free play, then address steering box play by adjusting it. At least, this approach worked for me.

Last time I heard so many jokes that were this bad was at the Circus. It was intense...

Brent, you are one patient and persistent hoarder. Congrats on getting it started.

Post some photos. The horn setup in my B4B looked just like the page from the parts manual I posted.

48D - Good suggestion. Thanks. Bob

Putting it all back together is fairly simple. Put the steering wheel on, then the horn ring hold down, tighten that up - and good luck lining up the horn ring spokes. Then make sure you run the horn wire wire through all of the components, the steering tube and out of the steering box before you finish the process. Tie the horn wire to something outside the steering box so it can't pull out while you are working on the other end. Pilothouse steering wheel.pdf Pilothouse steering wheel.pdf

Going through some old photo albums and I found this one of me and my B4B. I had bought the truck about a month earlier and patched the brakes enough to get it to my parent's house. This photo was taken by my mom after I crawled out from under the truck while doing the final brake bleeding. Late summer of 1975. 23 yrs old, about 2 months left to go in the Navy, just starting to let my hair grow out and getting ready to go to college. I told my kids that this photo is proof that there was a time when I was skinny When I bought it, I just thought I bought an old Dodge. Now I know I bought both a time-machine and a work of art..

Contact John's Salvage in Seguin, TX (they have a website). I think I saw a set on a truck in his yard last time I was there. They are reasonable and I believe they will ship parts.

"Gillespie County Livestock Co." is a farm animal auction. Farm animals are "large animals." How about a photo of a car or truck with a large sign shaped like an animal?