Plymouthy Adams

No, not off the top of my head I would have to probably ask also or do some research.

you are tagging in on a silent block thread....the silent block and shackle bushings are two distinctly different animals, the silent blocks do need pressed in and are a pain to removed. I changed a set of silent blocks, the blocks were not bad it turns out but they were by the time I got them out....on inspection next time around with spring rebuild, the silent block stayed as there rarely by my experience are damaged.

for the shackle end, that is correct...

what was the tailwind speed and down hill grade? lol I kid of course. Many folks would never push one of these old cars for love nor money.

I'd be depressed also running at those lower speeds....

we have high temp and higher humidity.....am wet sanding the roof of a project car today, found I just need to wring out my t-shirt for water.....lol Of course I am not but could be done! Many folks sitting about doing nothing. Like you, taking advantage of morning and evening hours....today with the huge storm that came through, temps are moderate for the minute...will not be this way tomorrow.

the basic design is solid, if the drum is centric and flush, there is no mechanical concerns really....now...as to the very part supplied as pictured...I have never had one in my hand to say it is built to fit properly. (this is likely what the B-body boys do with the pre 65 muscle car axles and hubs. I will say this....on the P15 when removing the drum from the hub, you will find a step that will have to be removed on a lathe to make the hub register correct so the very base of the hub the drum will fit flush and align. I just last fall did a hub separation, lathe cut and fitted 1989 brake drum but went the extra mile to also fit the donor backing plate, will be one or two other small mods to match plate to housing...sacrifice of the originals for the seals. The average person would not this route and stick with the fixed shoes but floaters and self adjusters are the only way to go. I have about 13 pictures of this process.

this style of drum and hub has been Mopars go to since 1965..(and most the industry)..where the difference is mainly bolt over stud...many manufacturers using this set up also keep the drum to the hub from falling off by use of at best a 1/4-28 countersunk screw....and the small screw I have never see broken or damaged except by using the wrong fitting tool for removal

I will add but one more comment to the folks entering this hobby or any hobby for that matter, but the accelerated cost in this hobby can get out of control quick and spiral downward and leave one feeling hostage. Price of parts is just a small part of the costs, you have shipping to consider. Receiving parts that are not up to parr in design and application. The aggravation of dealing with that and backing up as you search for another alternative will have you questioning is this worth it. IT IS WORTH IT but, if you are not a DIYer with the skill sets, time and space to work nor willing to read how things work, and embrace new needed skills to learn and put into place and instead farm this out, you are going to be upside down leaving the starting gate. However, as a DIYer and one that is proactive in chasing parts, constantly staying abreast of the changing industry, adapting and overcoming by learning and building confidence you cand do this, you can be very successful with your build. Stick around here a bit, you can research this forum for almost any phase or item of the intended build on your car and get guidance to move forward without breaking the bank or the car and most importantly, your resolve to see this through. Good luck, keep your chin up and prepare now to finish the race.

pay to play if you wish it stock, if you want to upgrade a bit axles and disc brakes can be had for little money tad of sweat equity....cost of living going up, change of living going down

many times modern replacement fits only in the external physical dimension and has little to do with original strength per application....seen this in many parts supplied today by currently offshore manufacturers. This will continue to be the case as standards decline or fall to the wayside altogether. Glad you caught the weakness.

e-bay search: Mopar rear axle brake backing plate bolt, e-bay will show you what is available...these have not changed much over the years. Look to the European Salisbury rear axle, they are the Dana of Europe. To be truthful, shaving/cutting a flat on a standard bolt will work just as well.

in you have no local parts places, odds are you will need to source online....e-bay search will show you what is available. If you have shops dealing with the older German or British cars, drop by and inquire from them, many of them get upgraded.

I agree, many retailers only know a part number, a few will know how they work. Sounds like you got a zealous agent getting commission on parts quantity sold. I could be wrong. YOU NEED to be most informed these days. Schematics, drawing and specifications are no longer part of an item description. IF you are a DIYer the lack of these specs make designing a system for your own adaptation challenging to say the least. You must know how it works before you can make it work is key to success. Read them white papers, some are hard to find, but often with a bit of search you will prevail.

the hand brake light as wired from the factory is not part of the braking system on that of the accessory light switched to ground when the lever is removed from the rest position.

such is the average business supplying parts these days....they made the immediate sale, they could care less if you are happy, if what they sold works and heaven forbid you question their 'knowledge' sorry you had this issue. I always recommend that one do some reading of a few white papers, does not take but a minute this way to know what article has got their 'stuff' in the right sock. Once up to speed and for the most part above parr of the average seller, you can procure what you need and be successful in the endeavor.

I would start with just unbolting the bezel and attack it with item in hand.....white painted back panel alone does wonders. But controlling light loss is the better fix.

I forgot to also mention that the lenses do not have reflectors as is common in today's cars and contributes to the poor lighting you describe. One can easily fabricate these to ensure more light exits the lens and not enter into the trunk of the vehicle.

the glass of the lens is more likely the issue than the bulb and wattage is wattage regardless of the voltage. You may find LED a bit more lumens but your next issue is going to be the flasher. Either you will load the system with a ballast for amperage draw for the flasher to work or even better, just upgrade to the electronic flasher. However, not sure the availability of the electronic flasher in 6 volt positive round your areas, but are available online

yes, but at the risk of leaking oil, is it worth it...sorry had to do the dig.....lol

as stated, one could, one should not...but that is my opinion based on inability to shut the fuel to the cylinder...we can unplug the spark plug. The check valve would have to be very well built...why compressor use reed valves to that end.....not worth the effort.

while a person could in an emergency connect with a well built check valve in place to use for compressed air, it is not a safe nor clean manner to get air due to the compressed fuel on combustion. I would not want a tire inflated with fuel laden air. The hole's sole purpose by design is to check TDC. Many engines in the past have been made to run on half the cylinders and compress with the other half...but fuel induction and spark was never part of the setup. Find a better liars bench..

necessity is the mother of invention; glad you overcome the problem and did not have to ruin a new seal. You deserve a coffee and a donut, sad part, you will have to pay for it yourself.......just life guy....

looking at the picture, while you cannot say HOW thick, it is obvious by the shadow of the base gasket it is thicker than the other other gaskets, not the slots in the gasket, no manner the position of install the vacuum will be applied to the base of the carb..

rather thin and thick are not really descriptive in any exact manner, just suffice it to say when mounted the gasket must have the slots and when tightened, will not compress and or distort so to allow the gasket to squish and block the vacuum.