Plymouthy Adams

10..I knew there was two ways to look at the answer on the one I missed...one of them twisty types.

This is the type stuff dreams are made of..saw some really fine cars in there..even a Seven?

After many dead ends and such I was at the point of sending an order to Restoration Specialties..still will but no in the hurry as I just got my flat head 5/16-24 screws coming in. We now have a fastener store in town..new...nice..lots of specialty stuff. Anyway..am asking what people used for antis-queak whre the fenders bolt to the body..this car did not use welting..41 Dodge..looked to be like a cloth type tape about 1 inch by just about 1/16 maybe a tad thicker...is this stuff like a tape or what? Is the FHL1116 in restoratino speciality catalog what I need...closest thing I have found..

Brad..sure glad you made it across the bridge..they don't play games there..I think it is still an automatic tow and that is not cheap... How you gonna sleep at night knowing that your car is somehow deceiving the geneal public with that faux radio scam...I'll have to send you one of my infamous "Geebo" anything for a dollar certificates. If you see PJ with the red Tiger..he should know about the certificate and also the drawing of him in his BMW..however I think he still gets a bit red about the face on that one. Bloodpressure is an awesome tool if you know what I mean.

without a google check am saying 39

Being a car and not truck..the battery as mentioned earlier shold be under the rear seat accessable by removing the seat bottom. I remember this from looking at the 40 DeSoto up the road from the house one day.

nla

Gonna try and get you a quote on shipping before the weekend. Tomorrow I got the kids coming in for dinner plus the Moo will be here..Sal is making her famous Shish-kabobs..yummy...these things are a treat..we always get red, green and yellow bellpeppers to make them a colorful and delicious meal.

They sure seem like they are glued after sitting in the sun for umpteem years. I carefully removed mine after breaking the seal between the stainless and the rubber with a dull putty knife..and even then it is still a trip getting it out...

I cannot recall the measured difference between the 49/50 and the later 51/52 door where the bulge at the leading edge starts below the beltline molding but there is a huge difference..say over an inch..this I inspected years ago as I had a set of doors located for the burb but the difference was the bulge and one higher than the other. I did not investigate the door/dog house swap as an option so left it as a no-cigar kinda deal.

actually a 16 horse Briggs and Stratton is a very smooth engine.. First order of business would be to determine the fuel pressure..the rest is purely electronics...but without proper presure you deliverly during injection time may be low and sporatic at best.

Man knows a good piece of ash when he sees it...sorry...will sit out next three threads...

Don..I know it is an example of "because I can" but it ends there..unlike the Skelton bike..could not really see driving this thing about..I bet though at speed the engine has a gyro effect..what ya think...

Don't think so the 51/52 is wider across the cowl than the 40/50..the bulge at the doors are not on the same parallel...I contend that if the clip was changed..maybe the doors were also..I could not really see in the last picture the actual aligment along the door edge and front fender..cannot recall what was said about front doors but the rears interchange...the front were possibly the same size..just the bulge was different.

nla

You can get a hand held u-joint tool for less than an arbor/floor press. If this be the only use you will have for the unit..not much worth it. I usually just use my bench vise.

you got a better picture of the door- front fender alignment? these will be unequal unless the doors were changed also..courious to see a picture of that area.

The only way to positive ground an ant is with your right heel on concrete..

With all due respect..that little bit by the gas pedal is your least concern those rivets patches may keep out a bit of air and water..but add nothing to integrity..those should be ripped out and correctly repaired...

looking for the silver bullet in the arena of brake vampires..no real easy way out here..I have not explored anything but the obvious kits that have been worked up by builders already covered on these pages and magazines. At the moment they seem to be the basic choices..price, amount of customer interventionin assembly will be the two main factors deciding which way to go. If you gonna spend the money to upgrade, I cannot see keeping drum brakes on the front..for the rear they are still ok for operation but then..the ole adjustment trick is in play. Lots of people also upgrade rear gears to modern unit that have floating shoes..self adjusting and all the good stuff. You may be the one to get out there and did in the j-yards and pioneer the newest upgrade to keep the old shoes in place..just don't see the advantage. I rebuilt my cylinders..not a problem..Advance has the kits...very cheap may I add...I have the parts to upgrade to disc now..just a matter of having set aside the time to whoop them on...

I have never seen a tag like that on any of my old Plymouth or Doges..either they were not affixed or removed before I got them. I see the oval red maunufactuerer tag and the Briggs body number only when under the hood.

Sometimes at shows these little things are what seperate most of the owners..as you can only do so much to a car and retain stock appearance...right trim, right color paint, tires, hubcaps etc..ah but the ventican blind...one of the more elusive accessories of the period. I for one cannot see the price they command...and unless you be napping or the car is rocking there is really no need for one..EXCEPT..he has one..the other guy does not. All is vanity..we are all guilty to some degree of that when outfitting our cars.

I personally like the 2 door sedan over the coupe body...but what the hell do I know about style and looks..I bought a bullet nosed Studebaker while back.

That is the neck of the woods my D19 Bz Cp came from...nice shape for the shape it was in..getting better..just not fast enough but that is mostly my fault at times. Getting ready to hit the shop this evening..got my AC Evaporator hung last night and the studs welded so to keep the firewll clean..modified the fresh air vent to allow it to work and still install the AC..got to decide on hose routing tonight..If you stay off the strip and some of them little ranches to the north..you ought to get some work done...

they all say Missouri............SHOW ME......