Plymouthy Adams

I have never used the roller topcoat with rustoleum paint for a car..however rest assured it has a great shine and lasting qualities for about the house/garage items etc. As for using the rustoleum for a primer..I can vouch for its qaulity..I however ALWAYS insist that if you use this..bare in mind that about 2 good weeks to cure to sandable quailites needed to do proper body work. If you are in a hurry..I do not recommend this procedure. If used, cured, etc..then sand as normal and then you can now start your proper application of primer, by this, auto body quality, lacquer based primer surfacer...then proceed as normal. As I have spray equipment I have never tried the roller method and cannot really see myself doing it, however I can assure you as a top coat the Rustloem is good, sprays excellent when thinned to the proper viscosity and I use Evercoat Classic Acrylic Enamel Hardener and it is excellent combination. On another note..if you have panel repair inside your car that will require the use of a seal sealer, like 3M brushable seam sealer, prime with the rustoleum, let dry completely prior to the seam selaer application..Rustoleum and 3M are not really compatable and if you use the selaer first..will not dry and set proper. However lacquer based primer will work on this with no problem. I have used this since early 80's and it was handed down to me by a friend who has been doing this for years before I got into it. He got this from a very high end shop for exotics out of Atlanta...what better endorsement...?

I use stripper where I know I can control its application completely. Nothing spells disaster worse than dried stripper getting reactivated later after a paint is doen from some stripper in a hiddeen recessed interior. That said, I use good ole whale snot, the stuff that is extremely flamable and last can I got was from Wal-Mart..less than 12.00 a gallon...remember if it don't say flamable, the paint stays on...the ether in the mix is the quick lifting ingredient...use in well ventilated place..wear glove and eye protection..it is nasty stuff but will make short work of your paint. I like to keep it away from any hole for trim etc for the reason stated above..I also usually use a razon scraper along with this product to remove the paint just as it softens and when paint is gone..total wipe to remove the residue and then DA the stripped panel. The DA will remove any smaller amounts and film left behind in short order wtihout removal of metal..no sparks, I like 80 grit pads when stripping panels...leaves a beautiful finish that is just right for your primer to bond.

Pat..whatever color you painted had to be correct as you own the car...just that it is not restored...lol I really perfer worlds like, refinished, repainted, reworked, freshened up, even rebuilt. In the past I worked certian peices of equipment for the government and the level of repair was dependent on the wording of the job. A restoration meant to return to NEW condition. I had a certian amount of listed wear parts that were replaced automatically, any other item out of spec was replaced. This went right on through to the insulation of the cabinet interior with new material and a correct color and matte paint. Operation specs were at as new and tested by an outside factor to ensure this standard has been met. This units was expected to serve another 3 years when completed. It was very rewarding work and the units when finished were superb. Overhaul was to return the unit to working order, operational specs met, only parts outside of tolerance was replaced, looks were not inportant. Lastly was the repair to work, (voyage repair) this job was to get a unit serviced/adjusted and brought to working order looks be damned. This was usually written to meet an emergency repair to the fleet in support of an operation where the unit could not come offline and go to the shop..most of these were serviced on the ship. As I did not care to work tight quarters for submarines, I was able to procure some extra items, these I would repair and service and in these times I would just swap out their unit for a quailty built unit and fix them later at my leisure. Other than voyage repairs, I rarely went to the boat.

nla

Wow..this does not sound like a very professional shop..did they state the reason for the welding of the shaft..sounds like they took two and made one..the gears are part of the long shaft and would explain the graft but not the fact that the horn wire will no longer thread the hole...how far up the shaft is the weld? can a long bit (available to 18") be used to possibily clean the weld? I know it should not be your job to come behind their work. Second is the quality of the weld itself..do you trust this weld...is the weld a documented repair from them..ultimate responsibilty rest on you..documentation can make them responsible but at what cost to you, your family etc. These are question we must all face when making mods/repairs to vehicles. More than not the weld is secure and you have only the inconvience of not being able to use your stock horn button...I would not be happy paying for this service and have a unit rendered out-of-stock specs and application. When you returned this unit..did you point out the horn wire problem? Else they may not really be aware of the need to have the hole unobstructed...

Don..looking at the bottom of your picture I can say this... ONLY THE SHADOW KNOWS

I saw the tucker engine name, and on the firewall but as this is a Mopar forum figured/guessed (wrongly) that it was a 1942 dodge..

Don..live to fight another day...my cousins arrived..it has been a hoot..they cannot stay near as long as I would kike..one could not make it due to a confilicting work schedule..called in to support a full prodcution after half day scheduled..and yes with age it seems you appreciate more of the little things going on around you...

Most all of the horn rings are insulated from ground and only tightened to the point to have a slight separation from ground source..it is as mentioned earlier that this can be over tightened or insulator missing or ever further, insulation in place but with a slight misaligment..break/tear allowing contact. The horn need to be adjusted with the ohm meter or at least muzzle the horn to keep neighbors ears protected while you trouble shoot. If this gap is not correct and even around the mounting/insulated point it can cause ease of blowing from one angle only and this is what in turn creates excess pressure that ultimately breaks horn ring as a owner tried to blow the horn..these assemblies are not just bolted together..they are assembled and adjusted..

1942 dodge...???????????

This is one of the reason I do not like the word restoration..though the idea is to preserve and protect the metal for the future and make its appearance to be at it best for the present..the procedure is incorrect therefore outside the scope of restoration....sorry...again not to critize a mans work..only the descriptive word used...

I'm just sitting by..got a few cousins in for the weekend..Bot T. has the advantage...

sounds like yucky weather for sure...the pies are made..nice golden brown crust and excellent raisen filler..already had a slice with some good cold milk..we played some Cribbage while they baked. Tell Lisa congrats for us...

The taxi picture is at my place but car belongs to Lou...yes I think he said it is a VW blue..

No update on the clutch..he wrote and said that was one of the first things on his of of "to do" have gotten a few forwarded comics and items of political interest..so I guess I need to drop him a personal note and see what be going on with him. I just returned from eating at the Menonite Restaurant..best food for the money...no dishes to wash either..mums likes that part. Now I am going to go bake a couple raisen pies...yes raisen...they are delicious and a northern treat...or maybe it was just applachia..etiher way I like em...

lets just say we found the source of the corn...lol

That was during one heck of a heat wave..and yes the tall walls sure put a twist to building..I still give thanks my bud uptown had all that scaffold he lent me to do the work..without it I ould have been toast..and yes by all mean it IS worth all the blood (yes injuries incurred) sweat and tears (bright light and salt in your eyes) I sure would love to have another group gathering at my place again this year...my orchard never looked better than with all them old Mopes in the yard...

and I remember that one..that's funny as hell...gotta love it...I call that pic of myself OLD WORLD TIM looks like I just arrived at Ellis Island or something...

super guru..is that a gu-rillla

this was my club coupe... I kept the seat covers in the back seat...these cars had lots of head room... Don..notice the lift bay had not been built at this time..sold this car shortly after it was completed...

Yes..that is the package tray..We share that much in common in our cars..the later D24 got the spare in the trunk..lost the storage compartment behind the passenger side. My trunk is 5' 61/2 inces from lip to rear of the compartment. Room for maybe 4-5 mother-in-laws (dependent on size and stackability) or Jimmy Hoffa and maybe a couple other henchmen...no wonder this car was so popular...lol The quarter glass makes it appear to be just a coupe in looks...this is mine the day I got it..Charlie of this forum was there to help load it up...

Now I remember you posting that picture full size...was amazed that it was 5 window not a three window like the D19 Bz Cp...what kind of package tray you have behind that seat...and does the spare mount in the passe4nger compartment or the trunk?

not knowing if this is a wife or girlfriend I will keep my mouth shut...but I will say that ornament is off center...

Don..I have one similar to the one pictured..looking closer you will see the two different thread sizes and to length for the smaller size thread we use..long and short threaded adapters...I never liked the hand held..for flatheads it is not a prob as access is a breeze..try getting into a tight compartment with close fit manifolds etc..just not very user friendly.

So you have a pre war Dodge..I have a D19 Business Coupe and an D19 Town Sedan..the coupe is being worked at the moment, the sedan is in the barn in storage. Is this the grill you have in your car?