RobertKB

I can’t even find the woods unless you count fence posts! ?

Back door lock broke so I went to get a new one. You cannot buy the old style like on the right. I literally looked all over town. I finally broke down and bought the Rube Goldberg mess on the left. Why do they have to get rid of simple things that work well and last years with complicated messes that are awkward and time consuming to install? I could change out the old one in under five minutes. Good thing the new one came with instructions. All down to money is my guess.

As mentioned, there is a very definite way to set the choke. The Sissons unit is usually very reliable but I have had one go bad. If the engine is hot and you restart after 15 minutes it should not need any choke………unless it’s VERY cold outside. ?

Yes, two speed Fordomatic. Touch wood, it’s been trouble free but was very leaky. Now dry.

Nice item! I have a couple of old seats but they are pressed steel so newer than your cast iron one. I use mine as yard art.

Sorry, but I agree with Ulu. Said it before and will say it again. Sell everything for what you can get except the truck which is your true love. Change motors and get it back on the road. How many years of the BBQ are left?

Good call. Re-greased it will be much happier. It’s always good to have spares for any and everything!

Glad it worked out and that it turned out safely! ?

I thought I knew most of the waxes available but never heard of this. I’ll have to check if available in Canada.

I agree but I also think he was a bit “thin skinned”.

My 1953 Plymouth with original paint. I’ve owned the car since 1975 and have used several different waxes. For the last 10 years or so I have used Meguiar’s Liquid Gold and been very satisfied. Make sure paint is cleaned well before using it as it is not a cleaner. I wax the car once a year and it does live indoors.

You need to be very careful. With soft uneven ground you do not want to lose control of the engine hoist. Unless very firmly positioned they can be tippy or move easily, even on thick plywood. If it tips with you close by, serious injury could result. 600+ pounds of engine can be very dangerous. This is also true if you use the truck bed for the hoist.

I wouldn’t be tapping holes unless you know exactly what they are. If you use a wrong tap, which initially seemed ok, you can break it in the hole and you are basically screwed.

Totally agree!! It’s always good to have a healthy supply of various bolts, plugs, nuts, etc. I never throw away any of those items but put them in a can, or in my case cans. In the last 30 years there have only been a couple of times I couldn’t find what I needed, even specialty items. Mind you, I’ve been pulling old Mopar stuff apart for years.

Use leather boots. It can actually be done with the driveshaft on the car although easier on a bench. Well known Mopar suppliers sell them.

Mine didn’t look as nice when I got it but it was a low miler with 2-3,000 miles. A good clean and silver paint works wonders. It ran beautifully! Good luck with your project!

This from a Canadian parts book so 25” for sure. Definitely a former truck engine. Block was obviously bored. My guess is the crankshaft was terrible so a new one was used, hence the standard mains and rods. Remanufactured Chrysler Method tells you it was done by a rebuilder that was Chrysler approved. I had a similar tag on the engine in a ‘38 Chrysler I have since sold and for which I now have seller’s remorse. It was also a former truck engine but a T311 so originally a 228 CID.

I had the radiator in my ‘51 Dodge D39 business coupe recored recently by a local shop who like working on the old radiators. $CDN500 or around $US400. Being charged $1200 for a recore is highway robbery. Your old radiator may be able to be repaired if it checks out OK. I’ve gone that route with other old radiators.

I have three great old Mopars but I also own a 1963 Ford Fairlane 500. I’ve owned this car since 1979. It was once a daily driver but became a keeper. Motor was getting tired and I had the original 260 V8 rebuilt nearly two years ago. Yes, those are the right engine colours for the year. Ford engine blue arrived a few years later. Radiator was recored and the leaky transmission checked over and all new gaskets. Seats were always a bit shabby and had after-market solid blue seat covers for years. This last winter I sent off the original covers to SMS in Oregon and they made new ones same as the originals. Took a while but they did nice work. My local upholsterer put them over the original frames with new padding. I got them in the car last Friday. Been driving it lots!! One of my favourite views.

That was your original plan in your very first post. I personally don’t like any fuel filter close to the exhaust manifold. Did you check for your missing fuel line in the same location you found your missing oil pressure gauge line?

dpollo beat me to the right answer. The above picture is exactly right. Have fun with the project!

There are no dumb questions, just dumb mistakes due to not asking questions. Now you know how and can pass on that info if needed. Thanks for the update of the successful replacement. A lot of times original posters don’t show appreciation or provide follow up.

You should be able to see what’s needed.

It’s a disease! ?

Why even think about re-inventing the wheel. Chrysler made tens of millions of these engines. If there was a problem, which I doubt, Chrysler would have made alterations. My ‘53 Plymouth has 102,000+ miles. It had rings, one burnt valve replaced, and the rest lapped 30,000 miles ago. Main and rod bearings were plastique gauged at the time and were in the middle of factory specs so were re-used. The bearings, camshaft, pistons are all original. Only things replaced were the rings. To this day the car does not burn oil, has great compression, and great oil pressure. Just saying, don’t over-think things and have faith in the great engineers who designed these engines.