RobertKB

You’ll love the concrete floor!? Your best helper is learning young but they grow up so fast that he’ll be driving the COE before you know it!?‍?

When you select the pictures you want to choose your phone should say Show Selected. Hit that and it should then say Actual Size. Hit that and it then brings up size options. Choose one less than 3MB. That’s how my I-Phone works anyway and I almost always use it to post on the forum. Picture below was originally 4.5MB, well above the 3MB allowed, but posted at 664KB.

Both my ‘53 Plymouth and ‘51 Canadian Dodge have the Detroit joints. The ones in the ‘53 have worked flawlessly for decades although I have replaced the rubber boots with leather. The ones in my ‘51 Dodge have given nothing but trouble. I have a spare driveshaft from a ‘48 Dodge D25 parts car with spicer joints. I also have the appropriate yokes for the transmission and differential. Shaft will need lengthening slightly. Got new u-joints and set to go this spring replacing the ‘51 driveshaft. I don’t mean to hijack this interesting thread but the last few posts might be better in the car forum.

I have NEVER understood why GM and Ford stayed with the torque tube so long. Absolutely no advantage to it. Also don’t understand why Mopar stayed with Detroit universal joints for so long. A few of their cars did come with the spicer joint like my 1948 Canadian Dodge D25. Same joint as ‘57 Chev so very easy to find.

That’s why I’ve always take all manifold nuts and washers, especially the brass ones, off any old Mopar engine that’s only good for parts. I have way more than needed.

We are dealing with 70+ year old cars here. We should be glad we can even get filters. I know money is important but sometimes you need to “pay to play”.

Canadian car. I posted this info from a 1954 Canadian parts manual in a previous post. Check his car’s serial number. His engine serial number starts with D24 so is likely original to the car and according to the car’s serial number would be a 228 CID. It’s always good to read previous posts and look at the information provided.

Here’s info on your car from my Canadian parts manual. Most, but not all, Canadian built Dodges were D25’s like mine. Door handles are held in place by two screws behind the handle which on the D25’s are fractionally over 1” long. A specialty bolt that screws into the end of each handle keeps it from being pulled out by someone with bad intentions. D25’s we’re basically Plymouths with Dodge trim. At first glance they look similar but there are lots of differences from the D24’s. Fenders don’t extend into the doors, hood is alligator style not butterfly, rear brake light and taillights are different, etc.

That’s a Canadian Dodge D25, aka Plodge. It is a Plymouth with Dodge trim. It will also have the longer 25” engine. If engine is original to the car it will be a 218 CID. Looks like a business coupe. It also looks like it is missing some vertical bars in the grille. I own the club coupe version.

Gotta love those old fashioned parts stores. We have one where I live but I see it slowly changing after it changed hands. Glad you got the problem sorted!

You have been given this advice by at least four different people, myself included. Have you actually done this? I doubt there’s any need to pull the oil pump.

I’ve used something similar. Remove a plug from the oil channel, attach said equipment, and use compressed air as directed. Filled the oil pump, oil filter, and oil pan. Lubricates everything at the same time. Rebuilt engine had instant oil pressure when fired.

Lots of discussion on being at TDC on #1 to run the plug wire correctly to the distributor. Gotta make absolutely certain this is on the compression stroke, not the exhaust otherwise you are out 180 degrees on the distributor. Each cylinder only fires every second revolution. It’s an easy mistake to make. Been there, done that many years ago. Also, depending on how the oil pump and distributor are indexed after a rebuild #1 plug wire may or may not be at 7 o’clock. I have one engine where #1 spark plug wire is at 10 o’clock. The engine could care less as long as it’s timed right.

I own a D25 which is the Canadian 1946-48 Dodge. If the engine is original to the car it is a 218. The engine serial number should also start with D25.

I still suspect timing.

People get old. No one to take over. Not enough business. These could be the causes.

I agree. I had to stop very suddenly in my ‘51 when a semi turned in front of me. Locked up tires and they squawked. Avoid “the old car trap” and go with your plan. Sounds like you might have a slight safety issue you need to deal with. Good luck!

I like the third one with buildings nearly the same colour. First one is nice too. I love the fact you use your truck!

Of course trucks count!! Anything Mopar! Or parts thereof. ?

Definitely not real wood. It is very nice woodgraining though.

Yes I painted the wheel. I seem to remember I used Rustoleum RV white which is an off-white and so far has been durable.

My ‘51 Dodge D39 originally had a woodgrained dash. Whole dash needed re-doing so I chose to paint it. No regrets and I personally like it better. I did all the window garnishes the same colour as well.

Couple of rules. Gotta be taken this year and gotta be your car. This is my favourite and was taken August 4. I live in southern Alberta (look it up if not familiar) and we were getting a lot of smoke from forest fires in BC (British Columbia). I was coming back on some country roads after a car club event. Car is a 1948 Dodge D25 Club Coupe.

Flywheel actually not bad. A bit rusty on the bottom probably where mice got in the inspection plate. Ring gear is bad. I think this car had a pretty rough life at the end. It was probably driven until it died a nasty death.

In a very recent post I asked successfully about dowel pins and bellhousing removal. The reason for removal was too access the pressure plate and clutch disc thinking they could be candidates for rebuilding. Both originally made in Canada so no off-shore junk. However, whoever drove the car last must have had a very noisy clutch. The disc is down to the rivets which cut grooves in the pressure plate. Would these still be suitable candidates for a professional rebuild or is there too much damage?