RobertKB

Update. I knocked the dowel pins in on the advice of three above members’ posts. Success! Thanks for the help! The dowel pins can easily be knocked out of the bellhousing now that there is no flywheel interference.

So glad you got the old girl back on the road! Amazing what determination and perseverance will accomplish. She looks great. With the tree on top no wonder you got lots of smiles. This is what old cars are all about!!

Thanks, I know it’s important. However, this engine will never run again but will live on as a donor.

Make sure you have oil pressure and temp gauges connected or you will be spraying liquids all over. Assuming you have a rad in place.

The only constant in life is change.

I’ll give that a try and if no good then time for some cutting action. I’ll post results.

I have an old engine I want a few parts off and the pressure plate and clutch disc are a couple of items. I’ve had the head off and this engine is beyond totally frozen. I cannot turn it over to be able to get and the bolts holding on the pressure plate so removing the bellhousing is required. I have all the bolts out and the only thing holding the bellhousing in place are the two dowel pins used for alignment. You can’t see them in the picture but they do not allow the bellhousing to be removed. It only goes back a short distance before hitting the flywheel and cannot be lifted up because the dowel pins will not allow it. I seem to remember I had this problem decades ago on a different engine. I don’t think you can drive the pins further into the bellhousing as they won’t go far enough to allow removal. I think this engine was worked on at some point and the mechanic drove the pins in too far. My question is what do I need to do to remove the bellhousing? I vaguely seem to remember laboriously using a hacksaw years ago to cut the pins. I have an angle grinder now but if there’s another option that doesn’t involve cutting the pins, I’m all ears.

The Plymouth Doctor. http://www.theplymouthdoctor.com/

I’ve been that route. Glass company sent a couple of young guys who could not manage the fit of the rear window. I told them they weren’t following what it said in the manual but they thought they knew better. Next day they came back with the boss who read the manual and had the glass and trim in place in ten minutes. The manual was invaluable. Front window did not have the trim but did have the two halves with divider. Again, following the manual, it was done in no time.

Looks like the standard three speed to me.

This is where having a shop manual really helps. There is a set procedure to installing the glass and trim. Woe to anyone who tries to do it differently.

I get the ads but in reality I barely see them. I just scroll to the first thread. Ads don’t bother me as I pay no attention.

Dodge is a D25 which is the Canadian Dodge which is really a Plymouth with Dodge trim, aka Plodge. If that is the case, transmission will be the regular 3-speed and not fluid drive. According to my Canadian parts book the rear axles are the same from from 1937-1948. Always best to inspect and measure as who knows what a previous owner might have changed.

Although I like them original, I agree that I have seen some very nice restomods. This was my latest project which is stock but would have made a nice restomod if so inclined.

And I respect your polite response. Hack was probably not the best word for me to use, alter or modify would have been better.

Lots of forum members will disagree with me but there are probably many who feel like I do but are too polite or shy to say anything. Your car of course, but to me it seems a shame to hack up what appears to be a nice original fairly rare two door sedan. That car has over 80 years of surviving unmolested. I have no problem with hot-rodding a rougher car but a nice original seems a shame.

Remember to put the radiator cap back on on the initial start. There will likely be air in the system and this can cause a radiator eruption without the cap. Been there and done that. This was the first fire-up on my totally rebuilt ‘51 Dodge. It was immaculate under the hood before said eruption and took a lot of cleaning up.

I can’t even find the woods unless you count fence posts! ?

Back door lock broke so I went to get a new one. You cannot buy the old style like on the right. I literally looked all over town. I finally broke down and bought the Rube Goldberg mess on the left. Why do they have to get rid of simple things that work well and last years with complicated messes that are awkward and time consuming to install? I could change out the old one in under five minutes. Good thing the new one came with instructions. All down to money is my guess.

As mentioned, there is a very definite way to set the choke. The Sissons unit is usually very reliable but I have had one go bad. If the engine is hot and you restart after 15 minutes it should not need any choke………unless it’s VERY cold outside. ?

Yes, two speed Fordomatic. Touch wood, it’s been trouble free but was very leaky. Now dry.

Nice item! I have a couple of old seats but they are pressed steel so newer than your cast iron one. I use mine as yard art.

Sorry, but I agree with Ulu. Said it before and will say it again. Sell everything for what you can get except the truck which is your true love. Change motors and get it back on the road. How many years of the BBQ are left?

Good call. Re-greased it will be much happier. It’s always good to have spares for any and everything!

Glad it worked out and that it turned out safely! ?