Jump to content

John-T-53

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,647

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    19

 Content Type 

Everything posted by John-T-53

  1. John-T-53
    Thank you Tim for "The Key". I am humbled and grateful.
  2. John-T-53
    some pics.....
  3. John-T-53
    The journey.... This is the James Dean Intersection... Bako, straight. Fresno, left. A minor hiccup....
  4. John-T-53
    To bring some closure to this thread.... Packed the bearings with marine grease (because I had it on hand).... Had to get new wheel cylinders for the rears. Luckily NAPA had them within a day! Centric makes these now. Also had to make new lines between the cylinders. Very important to make sure that the line is clear of the rivets on the back side of the hub/drum assembly. The new spare. My tire guy got me this Hankook for $65.
  5. John-T-53
    Not a Dodge, but of the same era. Spotted in town next to the tire shop recently...... International Metro Step Van....I think these are the best looking step vans of that period.
  6. John-T-53
    Well....might as well do the MC too while the system is open. I had a kit in stock anyways... A good opportunity to restore the hardware and flip the cover around so the plug is at the front.... Bench bleeding...
  7. John-T-53
    That is Jerry's truck @Boss Hog . His truck was repainted shortly after that event. Hopefully he can come this year, I believe he was in the process of moving last year.
  8. John-T-53
    Get a kiddie pool and soak them in molasses for a few days. Some folks on boobtube say it works....
  9. John-T-53
    as in : qanon.pub ?
  10. John-T-53
    Depending on the type of paint to be stripped, lacquer thinner might work. If not, use something like Jasco paint stripper or Zip-Strip (methylene chloride). It'll remove it in minutes. Verify reactivity with the metal first.
  11. John-T-53
    What is the plan for abating all that rust inside the door?
  12. John-T-53
    The shafts are a little worn at the inner seal surfaces. Unfortunately, SKF does not make a speedi-sleeve in this size (1.445"). Would have to weld the shafts and re-grind, which I will not do since this rear end will be replaced with an 8-3/4" in the future. The new seals seem to fit snug on the shafts, though. Will pack the bearings with thick marine grease..... You're looking at about $130 worth of overpriced seals for all four wheels here....
  13. John-T-53
    Lol, Raven gloves are the best. I never replaced them when I originally did the brakes in '07. I didn't have the resources / ability to pull the axles back then. That probably was prior to joining the forum. The bearings are good, despite that.... I will be worry free for the upcoming 500 mile round trip to the BBQ.....
  14. John-T-53
    Some disassembly in progress. Got the motor out, man is it heavy. I am in the process of disassembling the motor now, trying to get the housing ends off, carefully, but they don't budge and nowhere to grab them. Need to have the armature commutator end cleaned up on a lathe. Not sure if I need to rebuild the arbor assembly yet....the bearings seem ok. But I'll at least get new belts.
  15. John-T-53
    Boom!
  16. John-T-53
    I guess the key is getting it just the right length so that I can utilize as much threads as possible. I also have an axle puller....but that might harm the bearings?
  17. John-T-53
    Brake and bearing inspection revealed that new grease and front wheel cylinder rebuild is in order. Last time was over 10 years ago. Ordered new seals at NAPA, $68 for a pair of front seals, $32 for pair of rear outer seals, $38 for inner seals! WTF. Also, $32 for (2) wheel cylinder repair kits! Replaced front outer bearing race too. I have a fresh tub of marine grease, I think I'll use that to pack the bearings this time. Never have pulled the rear axles, I'm getting some rust colored gear oil leaking out the ends. I need to get these out somehow this time, and might need to get new bearings pressed. I recall @Young Ed talked about using a piece of PVC pipe to pull the axles, we're talking years ago now.
  18. John-T-53
    What started as a tire replacement has mushroomed into a project as usual. Trying to get this old gal ready for a 450 mile round trip up to the BBQ in a couple weeks. New sneaks due to old age on the tires (10+ years), and sidewall cracking. I went with Toyo open country. Made in Japan, and I really like Toyos since installing them on my New Yorker Brougham. treadwear = 700+, Traction = A, Temperature = B. The spare tire also getting replaced, had a slow leak due to rust inside the bead seat. Sandblasted the wheel followed by naval jelly treatment to remove 100% of the rust, one coat of POR-15, two coats of primer, two coats of satin black.... This is a "late model" Mopar wheel, non original. I forget where it came from.
  19. John-T-53
    I'm trying hard not to drink ALL of them prior...!
  20. John-T-53
    I'm packed and ready....
  21. John-T-53
    Rhode Island wire sells schematics for making harnesses. Check that out. I got a few for the future wiring project on my truck. They also sell wire and connectors.
  22. John-T-53
    It was in the high 80s here today. That purple color out the MN window above is giving me chills... "don't ya know". I will issue an alert in case I get a "shipment" later this month so you don't have to Fedex it....
  23. John-T-53
    Both door inner panels appear to be swapped - right is now on the left, etc. As for the difference between the photos, the plywood that was sitting between the roll up and man doors is missing in the drivers side photo. ? Also, it looks cold outside.
  24. John-T-53
    The wix/napa was too big more than 10 years ago and apparently no improvements have been made. I think I read on here that someone talked to Wix and they were going to fix it....but apparently that didn't happen.
  25. John-T-53
    You have the best deal and guarantee of a genuine Baldwin element. I inquired about these at NAPA last week and they can only supply the Wix-made elements. If they search for JC405 it lists the 51011 / 1011 #.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use