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John-T-53

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Everything posted by John-T-53

  1. He may attend, with his own tent in his pickup bed (to accommodate a female co-camper). No rooftop tent anymore, that was sold.
  2. No judgement. I'm not on book face so I have no idea as to the context in which these photos are found (by you or others). For example, did the author of the above photo that placed it on book face give a description, such as: "Here's a pic of me and my gal that I found and scanned, taken outside our house on Fig Street in Fresno, CA in 1963"
  3. There might be, somewhere on this site, a factory shop manual. I just did a quick search but couldn't find it in the scanned document section (see link below). I don't have mine handy at the moment, but perhaps someone might know if we have a B3 manual on here? https://p15-d24.com/files/
  4. I haven't heard of that term, but you probably have a 4.10:1 ratio. You can look in the factory shop manual for your exact year and model and it will list the rear end that was standard for your truck.
  5. Looks like a fresh shipment of '59 Ramblers. And a Rambler American wagon. Do any of these photos posted on farcebook have any context with them or are they just random posts?
  6. Spot weld a grounding tab to the backside of the roof skin....
  7. What happened to Gary's panel? It should come.
  8. "Chyna" x 2 Can you reuse the originals?
  9. You are doing it the hard way, I promise.
  10. Remove the engine from the truck, place on a stand, remove crank, valves, cam. Pound out pistons from the top with mallet and block of wood. Clean up cylinders with hone, then measure them to determine if it needs to be bored out, which it probably does.
  11. For when you go back to snow men, remember that a "real" snow man has two carrots.
  12. Wobbles can be corrected by mounting the pulley in a lathe and using a dial indicator and hammer to straighten. You still have bigger fish to fry, the pulley is not a huge item. Clean & polish the snout and hole with red scotchbrite. file down any burrs or bulges from hammers.
  13. Upgrade to a Porsche and avoid the spelling and pronunciation kerfuffle! 😂 Let's face it, a 911 is every BMW guy's ultimate goal, haha.
  14. I didn't know they had different spellings based on number of wheels. Whatever the case, F both the cars and the bikes. The cars look like beavers these days (the animal)....
  15. Everything "woke" .... Turns to shyte!
  16. EMT conduit also good for fabbing stuff out of.... comes in 10 foot sticks.
  17. Here's a couple sources: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/standard-washers/lock-washers~/domed-tooth-lock-washers~~/ https://www.wclco.com/lock-washers/toothed-lock-washers/dished-type-lock-washers/
  18. "JEEBUS" No. 2 ! Looking at all the heavy corrosion found in the tappet chambers on the previous page, this engine needs to be removed and placed on a stand and disassembled. Even if it turned over, it's in no shape to run with all that crap in there. There is likely corrosion that you can't see that is locking up the rotating assembly. The block needs to be thoroughly cleaned - baked, tanked, blasted, and inspected before proceeding. You might already have a boat anchor on your hands, but you won't know until you can have a shop inspect it. I'm trying to save you time from making more snausage here. Hopefully it's still good!
  19. I, too, was considering the R-10 when first looking onto ODs back in 2010 or 2011....and decided to go with a T5 after similar advice from Dodgeb4ya and Ed (above), and others.
  20. Yes, it will all come out intact; you'll need to angle the engine/tranny assembly up at a steel angle to clear the front sheet metal (dawg house) and cab, as you dangle/lift it out vertically. I did it this way the first time, second time I removed the dawg house and it was a lot easier.
  21. I like it this way....consolidates information. And reminded me that I have not yet returned to finish removing my door lock since my last attempt 14 years ago as documented above.... humph
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