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rekbender

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rekbender last won the day on January 21 2018

rekbender had the most liked content!

About rekbender

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    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Milford OH
  • Interests
    Anything old and mechanical that can be taken apart.
  • My Project Cars
    1936 Plymouth Coupe, 1949 Plymouth convertible, 1970 Dodge A108 Sportsman van

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  • Biography
    45 year MOPAR fan
  • Occupation
    Retired

Converted

  • Location
    MLFORD, OHIO
  • Interests
    Antique cars, anything mechanical, dogs

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  1. Here is a picture of the cable operated convertible top mechanism and screw jacks I removed from a '51 Plymouth convertible that was being scrapped. It consists of a reversible electric motor, two drive cables and two worm gear screw jacks. No hydraulics. I'm guessing that yours is similar. My 1949-1954 Plymouth Service Manual covers this mechanism briefly. I can copy and post the pages if you need them.
  2. JerseyHarold, Thanks for the info. I'll try it later this afternoon.
  3. I pulled my non-working Model 807 radio last Monday to adjust the cowl vent. Since its was out, why not open it up and have a look? The "OFF" and "DIAL" pushbuttons weren't working - the soft metal arms that work the switches had been bent, so I straightened them, and the pulled the vibrator and tubes to clean the pins. When it was back together, it actually turned on, hummed, and started to play. Someone had the pointer string loop wrapped backwards around the dial stem, and that was corrected. Two new light bulbs and the dial lit up.There was a small screw on the bottom of the chassis that looked like and adjustment of some sort, so I tuned in a powerful station (WLW) and turned the screw - it played louder. Wow! There appear to be two exterior antenna trim screws, but only the bottom screw had any effect (the trim instruction label is mostly missing). The speaker output was badly distorted so I replaced it with an old Ford 4Ω speaker. With the antenna trimmed, the radio has been playing on the bench for four hours now. Adjusting the preset buttons has no effect, so I'm limited to manual tuning. This is way more than I ever expected from the old radio, so it's going back in dash for the time being. At this point, I don't have the heart to alter it. Any advice on a procedure for setting the preset buttons?
  4. Thanks for the pictures/information. I did look on eBay and found a very very expensive valve. Probably the same one you were looking at. I can't even imagine how that valve can be worth the amount being asked. Anyway, I do not need a new one, just one that works. If you have one that fits and works I would be interested. Let me know what you would want for it.

    Thanks again for your help.

    Melvin

    1. rekbender

      rekbender

      Hi, I'll dig through my stuff this afternoon and see what's there. I remember one on a parts engine from a couple years ago. Gerry

    2. rekbender

      rekbender

      My valve appears to be an earlier version. I took it apart and it looks to be in good condition. I don't think this valve was designed for a pressurized cooling system - probably from the '30's or '40's. I found a 1949 MOPAR part number - 1257 425.  $50.00 plus shipping. Let me know if you're interested. It might be worth it to make an offer on the new one on eBay. There are also universal in-line cable operated valves that could be adapted. Gerry

      DSC09719.jpg

      DSC09721.jpg

      DSC09724.jpg

    3. olsonm

      olsonm

      Yes, I am interested. Looks like what I need. I did look at several universal valves but I would rather have one closer to the original. How does the cable wire attach? 

  5. The first picture is the cable operated valve that was on my B4C. The second is the valve on my P18. Seems to be a fairly common valve . I've seen them NOS on eBay, but expensive. I may have an old used one if you can't find a new valve.
  6. This was my 1953 B4C. It had belonged to a horse farm in Kentucky. I sold it in 2009 to purchase a '36 Plymouth coupe. Has anyone seen this truck?
  7. This is just a thought. You mentioned in your original post that the spreader spring was on the second gear synchro. The service manual shows it behind the high gear stop ring and the clutch gear hub, not second. i still have the '51 transmission in pieces, so I put the spreader ring behind the second gear stop ring and assembled the clutch gear to the main shaft. It could be assembled with the spring tabs either toward the clutch hub, or toward the stop ring. Either way, it does interfere the with the stop ring free movement, and would become deformed if the clutch gear snap ring was installed. Did your transmission ever shift smoothly into second? First picture is spreader spring in the clutch hub hi gear side where it belongs. 2nd picture is the spring itself.
  8. That spring is called a spreader spring. I've seen this in a 1951 Plymouth transmission. I don't remember my '49 synchro as having it, although the stop rings were the same. The only picture I can find is in the 1946-1954 Plymouth service manual, and only in the overall parts breakdown picture. They don't mention the spreader spring at all in the synchro section, or the main shaft assembly section. The OD section does show two adapter (mid-plate) screws.
  9. Nice car. My first car was a '54 Dodge 4 door. A neighbor (original owner) gave it to me with just under 100K in 1965. Great dash, tutone green, 241/powerflite, bullet proof. I still miss that car. I'm jealous.
  10. The problem may be the wrong thermostat. The thermostat housing in the picture is a by-pass housing like the ones used on earlier blocks without the internal bypass. I've seen three different designs for these housings and each requires a unique thermostat (the old bellows type that don't work in a pressurized system) to block the by-pass passage in the front of the housing when the engine is warm and the thermostat open. If the by-pass passage isn't blocked, too much coolant by-passes the radiator and just circulates within the block. A later housing made for a wax pellet type thermostat may cure the problem. I ran into this a while back and it drove me nuts until I figured it out. If the housing in the picture is a P18 type, Stant makes a thermostat/adapter package that will work correctly in the P18 housing. Hope this helps.
  11. My '37 Plymouth PT50 had the tire size and class stenciled on the bed side. It had been parked since 1952 in a building in Indiana. Photo is from around 1980.
  12. When I was doing frame straightening, we had a local shop that straightened bent wheels, both steel and alloy. It was surprising what he could save - as I remember the cost was $50.00 to $150.00. There is probably someone locally that could check your wheels and straighten them if necessary. With the tires off the wheels, you could mount them on a balancer or a front spindle and spin the wheel. You will see the wobble if it's much more the 1/16". On steel wheels, sometimes the outer edge of the lip where the tire mounts isn't truly concentric, but if you dial indicate the inner surface where the tire mounts, the run out isn't as bad. In the old days, we would spin the front wheels, look for wobble, and mark the extremes in run out, and then mount the camber/caster gauge between the extremes. We did this on every wheel as many steel wheels had some wobble. The wheels on my P18 weren't perfect, a couple maybe out 1/8", but the reproduction bias ply tires really weren't round and had wobble. You can rotate the tire on the wheel to find where it runs most true. The best thing to do next is have the tire trued on a tire lathe or shaver. This will make the tire truly round, produce the smoothest ride, and increase tire life. As a bonus, a trued tire will often require less weight to balance. I trued the tires on my wobbly wheels and just static balanced them. The car is smooth as silk at 60. Balancing will not correct an out of round tire.
  13. I have an NOS heater core that I bought I for a Model 65 heater years ago and never used. The same measurements as yours. Honestly though, it doesn't look any better than yours. $75.00 and shipping. PM if your interested and I will pressure test it.
  14. Back in January, I bought a large lot of '35 PJ parts from a hot rodded car. The owner had tried for months to sell the entire lot on CL with little interest and no takers. I advertised them here (some interest) as well as my local CL, but again, no sale. I finally posted everything to a Hemmings internet parts ad. They featured my ad one Saturday on their Hemmings Daily email and my parts sold that week. Don't overlook Hemmings - their on line ads not expensive. Parts lots can be hard to sell unless they are are really cheap (I love cheap parts lots). Do list them here on p15-d24 and see what happens. Are you willing to sell individual items? Yeah, it's a lot more work that way.
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