bach4660

is there a power steering box that can work with original axle/components? I'm prepared for not bolt in, just looking for something half ways close. Was looking at the Cpp cp5000 but now I think it is front steer.

I know it sounds wasteful but master cylinders are only $80 I would replace. I found mine was only 1500 miles but about 5 years old and had signs of pitting inside. But I'm also in very wet part of the world, so maybe the 300 days of rain a year contributes.

carter m2091 BUT there is a lot threads on quality and the "PIN" so if you can fix it like Plymouthy adams suggests you might be better off. But fuel pump should be stock at local parts store. Airtex and spectrum also make

not sure which distributor you have but I had a problem when the bakelite insulator broke off and the coil wire that passes through the housing was shorting out causing no spark its the black wire in the photo with the yellow end. I used a piece of plastic (actually a ball point pen) to create a tube for the wire to run through and immediately had spark

http://p15-d24.com/topic/15504-moonshot/ I found a photo of a yellow one taken at TomorrowLand. It was in a book documenting the anniversary.

I originally used a high low bulb on the back of the truck, low for running, high for brake, then added the turn signal, using diodes to keep the current flow one direction, but once you stepped on the brake pedal the bulb went high, over riding the turn signal. I could not get the turn signal to flash while pressing the brake, probably the way you have already drawn it up. It was a lot of wiring and eventually I gave up and just added two yellow led turn signals to the bed roll ( I used slightly modified '51 ford ) and kept running/brake in red, and turn in yellow tucked into up high.

I bought a set of rims from Stockton wheel and now run a tubeless radial.

well turns out I'm thinking I over temped mine and blew the headgasket between 5th/6th cylinder. Just got the head back from the shop today.

got it Pioneer 362. thanks for the replies.

are there washers underneath the head bolts?

there are basically three parts, the glass, the channel and the scissors that go up and down. if the glass goes up and down check to see if it still has the horizontal channels attached. They slip onto two posts and are held in place with two E clips. On mine one had rusted so bad the glass slipped out, the other rusted so bad the channel was still attached to the glass but the horizontal grooves had separated and were still attached to the scissor. The window needs to be unclipped from the scissors for installation/de-installation.

thanks guys. I have driven the truck for 10 years and then on the weekend swapped the rad with a new to me (no known history one). And I thought it smelled hot, then I was watching the temp gauge, but I was thinking it is just because I'm focused on the rad, and never drove watching the temp needle before. So I bought some prestone rad flush and have been doing the deep clean as per instructions, and tonight (day two) the needle was pretty much straight down, once in a while it would tip to the right above the zero, and then go back down. I realize I should properly check it, but was more curious if this new rad was blocked, and now two drive cycles with the flush thinking it was blocked. There was something that looked like paper just in the filler neck, wondering if maybe there was a wasp nest inside (or still is), will finish day three, then flush it.

curious about needle position on the temp gauge, with the only markings being 100, 160 and 212, is it supposed to be right on 160? with a 180 thermostat wouldn't it be higher? Currently my needle rides between the 6 and zero of 160. Thinking this is probably around 180. Where does everyone else needle sit?

Fernando, are those photos at a shop or at your house?

do you still have decals?

me too. So I crawled under the truck and taped the tape measure to the tranny. Picked a route and measured up to the hole in the firewall. Then went in the cab and measured from the hole to the spot in the dash. I have got a lot of great advice on this forum but I still find it good to check.

I used a universal, from a local parts store. I just matched the length.

I have not purchased one from them, but the photo, the dimensions, everything appears to be correct for straight drop in, and connect the hoses. http://www.usradiator.com/dodge-truck-1948-54-all-radiator.html

I found the new pump lever didn't make contact, so I pulled the pivot pin and swapped the old lever with the new. Basically I blended the two together. BUT I did have the pin come out as Merle cautions, so no matter which way it works make sure it is staked.

12 years, time flies. I think that is somewhere around the time I got my first PH and found the forum as well and got some free advice.

this is the key part, last time I looked at the generic cheap ones they had the correct range but were backwards,higher resistance is full. Which I did use for while, it's fun to watch the wife as we drove around on "empty" which was full.

On my B2D I have the original tall skinny tires at 60psi and it steers pretty good. On my B2B I have a 225/75 15 at 32psi and it is a much harder steer, I was leaning towards the tires causing this BUT it is two different trucks, different wear and tear etc. Guess I need a third truck to figure out what I like better.

a clear direction is definitely key. For the rear end I used a '78 Chevy nova with a wheel adapter to change the bolt pattern, it added 1" to the overall width which looked good. (I had the rear lying around, if I had to to go out and buy something I might not have gone this route) I just found this for the front end http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/hub-to-hub-kits/hub-to-hub-stage-i/hub-to-hub-kits-stages/#hubtohubkits says $469 for the Dodge truck, but have no further knowledge or experiance.

I did the Rusty hope disc brake conversion, but kept everything else. Well I also dropped in a V8. Have taken it up to around 70mph and it all felt great, but I do find the steering difficult in parking lots. So I have looked at Heidts crossmember bolt in with rack and pinion steering, still thinking of keeping the leaf springs etc.

I see them at Horkey for $46 ea steel and $77 ea. stainless