bach4660

yes there is a locking ring on the sending the unit.

water gets in through the hood onto the motor, how do the two hinges seal? I have some of the fabric weather strip it looks like the cowl seal, but with the hinge swing action of the hoods how does it seal? or does it, I have seen the everdry kits?

I agree with Don and want to mention Motors Auto repair manual, a second time, the first part of the book is general service and repair procedures (that I find aren't in the factory manuals) including generators, early voltagare regs, and carbs for all models etc. I would move this one to number two on the must have list.

the weatherstrip is the same on both sides, and you are right about that, I tried two different types on my other PH because the doors would not close. But on the fargo they rubber works great on the passenger side. Don't know about the door being warped, I bought the truck with the door off, Which might be why the PO sold it that way. The striker plate screws started to strip, I will need to drill and tap them to get them out. I thought about the hinge side, but wasn't sure if that would make a diiference on the striker side?

When I bought the truck the doors were off. I installed the passenger door and it fits great. The drivers side closes but it takes a lot of force. The first latch is really easy, its getting the second click that either needs a slam or just a lot push. Once closed the door looks good, gap is pretty even all around. Its just that last litt;e 1/4". What would I bend, twist or alter to make it latch closed easier?

if this is $7,000 then you are sitting on a fortune http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1938-Ford-ute-pickup-Whole-car-pieces-less-drive-train-/261242531190?pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3cd344ad76

it is gm. I took the motor, tranny, rear end and brakes from a working (drove it for three months) Chevy '78 Nova, but I think in the two years during the swap , the w/c corroded. I have put in residual pressure valves, backed the clevite about 1/4" on the master, and tore the back right wheel apart, honed the w/c and re-assembled all, bleed for the 10th time and I have brakes. Which is great. What was throwing me was the concept of a dual reservoir as two independent systems, which was not fully correct with the differential valve.

thanks everyone for the replies, and yes I am glad that the problem is not masked. What I was questioning was why in a dual reservoir system I would have little or no brakes with a failure on one side. I think the answer is I wrongly identified the proportioning valve. I believe now it is actually a gloried T fitting, with one line in and one line out for the back brakes, and one line in and two out for the fronts, but it had a place for an electrical connection, I think it has a valve that trips an electrical sensor if the pressure differentiated from one end to the other, which would trip a dash light. (this was a salvage piece so no paper work no description etc). So with a problem in the back brakes, it is moving my front pressure to the back. Now having said that, I will check the back w/c for leaks, and also for adjustment as it might just be excessive clearance on the back drums.

I have disc brake conversion, drum back, proportioning valve and dual reservoir master. Brakes are spongy, always have to do double or triple pumps to get pressure. I disconnected the back drums and plugged the master, and the brakes work great. Holds pressure, single pump, feels great. so here is the the question, if the dual reservoir acts as two seperate systems, why wouldn't the brake pedal stay solid if even only the fronts where working? Isn't the point of dual reservoir to operate as two independent systems as a fail safe? I understand that I have a problem with the back brakes, I haven't pulled the drums to check the wheel cylinders, but say a wheel cylinder has failed, in a dual reservoir why would I also loose the front brakes? Well not actually loose, but why would I need two to three pumps to get some kind of pressure.?

If your PH is mint ignore the rest of this, but the other manufacturers arms will work as long as you match the base, then drill the small rivet, cut to length and re-rivet with a 1/8th stainless blind (pop-rivet)

nice collection, this also confirms something that we have always believed, "Prairie folk don't use mirrors". signed BC

winging this from memory, I think our sending units are 0 to 90 which if you are starting at 13 you would be about 15-18% too high, which would fit with what B1B kevin said. You can check both sending unit and your gauge by connecting the sending unit to the gauge out of the tank, with the float hanging down you should read empty, with the float up full.

I got charlies brake kit on my one ton. Just follow his instructions. I also swapped the back end so I am actually using Nova disc calipers on the front, nova drums on the back and a nova proporitioning valve. The fun part was buying the rotors, pads, hoses and bearings from the parts store as you need to reference four different vehicles

Vancouver. No it is once a year, and they measure the tailpipe, a worker drives on the rollers, then stops for specified times. The problem I have is they drive, and so far only one guy who has retired knows how to drive column. The last time I was there they did the driving test in second gear. But I keep waiting as I believe this may finally be ending this december. pita right now

looks really good. I'm with you Dan, the PO sprayed the cab including the plate it is now a high gloss blue, and completely unreadable. I was thinking of maybe paint remover, or maybe a 600 grit sand, not really sure what to do. Hoping to get it on the road in the next few weeks and I know you have to have the vin read for emissions testing, which will another problem in itself.

is the second photo a decal that will go over the stamped steel plate?

'97 gmc sierra back seat is the right dimensions for the pilothouse. It is a benchseat, and it fits the steel frame, no idea about your truck, but you said cab was similar

really nice looking. For the price you mean R$390,00 peca, for the whole set, all four? Not R$1560 for the all four?

theres two on ebay Feb 7th if your still needing

I have used EZ wiring cause it was the right price, and you get it in all in black (labelled every 6 inches)

Hopefully it will be gone by tomorrow

seconded, motion passed!

thats too bad, these things can be alot of work

too funny, firstly Hanksb3b hilarious, 51fargo maybe on this note you should stuff it full of bcbud, but now that Washington state has made this legal maybe the time has passed. But seriously,I sell for a living and 48dodger is correct it is as much about the right audience, DIY forums don't want finished projects.

I always forget that you and the Australia guys are getting your trucks out for the summer, as we are all so busy putting ours away for the winter.