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Everything posted by desoto1939
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I have had my 39 Desoto for 27 years and all throught its life with me I have had a 588 mechanical fule pump on the car. Also basically all its life of of 74 years it has had a mechanical FP. I installed the old style rotary pump prior to the newer gas blend. This style deteriated the diaphram while using the ethinol gas. I installed the Airtex 8011 6v pump and this has been in the car for at least 5 years now. I use this as a primer pump. Now with the newer Airtex 73201 I feel that the new diaphram will our FP should not have any problems with the newer gas blend. I was informed they are going to make a new style diaphram according to the Airtex FP technical rep that i spoke to. So I am staying with the mechanical and the electric as a backup pump. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Don: Thanks for including a picture of the rod with the clip on the fuel pump. Airtex could not confirm if this was changed with their remanufacture of the pump. Rich Hartung
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Todd, Here is the FP Technical Support for the Airtex Company 1-800-424-7839. I just spoke to a rep this morning and he looked at the spec and could not determine if they made any change to the pin issue. This was the first that he was aware of any issue. I think the issue arose when the pumps were rebuilt and the rebuilder had to pushout the rod. When this was done the hole might get enlarged and then when they reassemble the pump they did not peen over the ends of the rod to stop any slipping out of the body. I would think that when they are brand new it will be a very tight fit so this might not be an issue. Since Airtex was a supplier to AC of the original AC588 I would also assume they had alot of expereince in FP design and if this issue was happening alot they would make the necessary chnages in their design and correct the issue. So in my thinking with the cost of a repair kit being around 50-60 dollars and thenhaving to take the FP apart and then reassemble versus a totally new pump for around the same price I would go with the new pump just to eliminate the potential for the rod of slipping out. Hope this answers your question. The Airtex tech guys are very helpful and I also thanked him for rebuilding the old 588. We Mopar guys appreciated this and it helps to keep our cars on the road. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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Refer to my posting on the new Airtex 73201 fule pump that rep-laces the old AC588. found the cost around 70 with shipping. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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I have real great news for anyone looking for the old AC 588 fuel pump with the glass bowel. Airtex has decided to remanufacture the old AC588, Airtex was the supplier to AC. I just spoke to a Technical Fuel Pump person at Airtex Corp and he verified that it is the same pump and they retooled the pump. So now we can get the AC588 Fuel Pump but the new number from AIRTEX is 73201. I just saw that from the Parts Geek in NJ this very same Airtex is being listed for $61.35 and shipping is 8.85. So if anyone is think of rebuilding an old pump and the kits cost around the same price I would suggest that you get the whole fuel pump and will not have to do any rebuilding and it is ready to install with the gasket. The tech also told me that they are also going to be making a better diaphram to support the e15 gas. AIRTEX 73201 equals the old AC588 single action fp. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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So here is MY brake story....scratching my head.
desoto1939 replied to Bmartin's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Brian< you did not need to remove the eccentric bottom pins. If you noticed each pin has two flat spots on them. if I remember correctly I think a 1/2 inch box end fits perfectly on the end. Since you have the arrows then you are set. Loosen the castle nut on the back of the baker plate. You can then turn the eccentric via the box wrench to get the proper adjustment. Always start with the arrows pointing towards each other. Only do one side at a time to doing the arching of the shoe. If you can not find someone to arc the shoes then go with the high spot and get the drums on the car. Do this will all four wheels. Then carefully drive the car around the block and hit the brakes to get the drum to mark where the lining is hitting. You could then use the file or sand paper to start to remove some of the excess brake lining. Take you time with the Ammco brake gage that i sent you. You might have to do this job a couple of times to get them set the way you like it. I am on vaction starting the 8th so I do not need the took back in any specific time frame. Rich Hartung -
1940 Plymouth Tie Rod Ends, Inner and Outer Same?
desoto1939 replied to Bmartin's topic in P15-D24 Forum
the drivers side which is es131 has a right and left and yes these will be separate part number for each tierod end so for es131 the right has a mopar number and the left has mopar number but the overall set is an es131 r and L and also for the es 60. Rich Hartung -
1940 Plymouth Tie Rod Ends, Inner and Outer Same?
desoto1939 replied to Bmartin's topic in P15-D24 Forum
according to my Thompson Products catalog: Right side passenger should be ES60 and the left side Driver side is ES131 the r and l stand for if es60 r is the right side and L is the left side on the passenger side same for the ES131. The should have been marked which is the ES 60 and ES131. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com -
PM: I agree with both of you about the possibility when running the electric full time through the mechnaical. Thats why I called the Airtex rep to get some more clarification on the topic. And he even stated that running it full time electric and the mech could cause an issue with gas in the oil pan. Put if you have an emergency then you should be ok but not to run it for a long time that way. We are all learning as we go along in this hobby. Rich
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Are you replaceing the cylinders just because of the leak that occured because of moving the shoe or are they pitted. Are you getting NOS cylinders or new China made cylinders? If you are getting NOS and I mean the good old stuff not brand newly made stuff then you should be ok. If getting brand new made items I would then suggest that you have the old ones sleeved. The old items where made better. Do you have bonded or riveted lining. If riveted you can put the new lining on yourself, it is very easy to do. I also have the tools to do this and the Star Lining clamp to hold the lining in place on the metal shoe and the tool to pean over the rivets. If I remember correctly I think you would use the 1162 lining on your car just like what I use on my 39 Desoto. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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I just spoke to tech rep at Airtex about this issue of leaking gas if the diaphram broke. He state that there is a small hole in the body of the mechanical pump that would be used to let the gas come out of hte body and not run into the oil pan and or block. He stated that you could run this situation to get you home and then swap in a new mech FP or just block off the old hole for the Mech and run a strainght electric fuel pump model E8011 which is the 6v version of the Airtex. So yes there is a possibility of gas getting into the oil pan and block. If just using to prime the carb then no issue. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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don: I think if the diaphram breaks this is only stopping the pump from creating a suction to bring fuel up from the tank. If I remember correctly there are two screens and holes inthe body that feed fuel into the body of the pump. But again I am not an expert on this so I might have to look at one of my pumps. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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I would leave the mechanical pump installed onthe block. The electric pump needs to be install as close as possible to the gas tank. These pumps are designed to push the fuel and not pull the fule to the carb. When you have an electric pump and the mechnaical the electric will force the gas throught the mechanicl even if the mechnaical has an issue. Lets say you are running the car down the road and the mechnical is removed and then the electric cuts out on you then you have no backup and the car dies onthe road. You then have to work on a hot engine and installthe mechnaical pump will all of its connections. This is a real pain when the engine is hot. Leave the mech installed. I have both in my 39 Desoto. Just my 50 cents worth of information but I know others will chime in. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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I have always used this type of spring tool when doing a brake job when using drum brakes. I just looked in my Motors Manual and they even show the use of the spring tool. Under this section it states: When necessary to remove brake shoes from a hydraulic system install a brake cylinder piston clamp before removing the shoes. Tis prevents the cylinder pistons from being forced out of position and thus prevent brake fluid loss.. They even show two pictures of this being done on the Bendex/lockheed and also on the old Huck Brakes. If you have never had to use the tool I guess you were lucky but I like to make sure that the pistons do not come out of the cylinder. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
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Brian: You do not need the Posche tools the generic tool willwotk. Here is one with free shipp for around 12 dollar onthe bay: do a search Wheel Cylinder 2 Spring Steel Claps Brake replacement W82002 on the bay 11.95 and free shipping Rich hartung
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I just saw several pairs of these lsited on the EBay. Also any good Auto parts store should beable to get you a set of these. They are still being used on cars that have drum brakes. Try a local NAPA or AutoZone or Oreilies Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com
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P-14 and P-15 sheet metal interchangeability?
desoto1939 replied to jcmiller's topic in P15-D24 Forum
P14 and P15 Coupe doors will interchange steering gear will also interchange also radiator, also rear springs, rich hartung -
P-14 and P-15 sheet metal interchangeability?
desoto1939 replied to jcmiller's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Let me check my Hollander Interchange Book. It willtake me sometime to reply, but someone else might also chime in with an asnwer. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com -
just did a search on ebay and there are lots of 46-54 Plymouth service manuals listed there isa reproduction one for 20 dollar and even one on CD. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com
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I checked my Victor x ref and the Chrysler number crosses to Victor 49909 rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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don you are correct on the 1010. I have the bypass filtering system. Rich Hartung
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ok here is your answer You use 11 inch drums rear shoes are number 1161a width 2 inches 3/16 thick length 2 @ 8 7/8 2 @ 11 1/2 if riveted used rivet size 4-5 and uses 36 rivets Chrysler 46-48 Desoto 48-49 dodge pass 1949 D29 1948-46 D24 front shoes 11 inch drums front shoes 192A width 2 inches 3/26 thick length 11 1/2 4 pieses rivets 4-5 number needed 40 Taken from my Thermoid brake catalog Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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I have your answer and will tell you all the numbers. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
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I have an AC unit on my 39 Desoto and use the NAPA gold 1010 oil filter just like the fram that you are showing. Are you running a detergent oil multiy weights such as 10x30 or 10x40. These are detergent based and will get dirty quicker because of the cleaning action. My oil pressure does not really drop and it is around 40 when running down the road. I have aprox 20K on the rebuilt engine with the 180 thermostat. rich Hartung desoto1939@aolo.com
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also depends on what you are planning to do with the car. Show it for awards like AACA. rememember it is a Desoto coupe and also not a convertible. Have you figured a total cost that you want to put into the car and then add more. The hot cars are from the 60's and high performance. So its your call but only you can make the decision on what you want the car to look like. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com