desoto1939

write to me with the year car or truck that you have. Are you looking for the upper and lower control arm seals or all of the rubber seals on the various suspension parts. I have a MOOG and Thompson Products Catalog and I might beable to tell you the specic number and then look on the Bay you might find them. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157 home 610-630-9188

Ok: i do not know this year car since I own a 39 Desoto. Do not hold that against me. BUT take a quick look at the chrome trim around each taillight. The Black car has the reflector at the bottom and the blue car has the reflector at the top. Is this correct or has someone installed them upside down???????? rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

With any NOS product, remember NOS meant that it was new back many many years ago. So you are looking at rubber parts that have been sitting for many years and you do not know where the part was sitting. It might have been in a damp room, sun light hitting them. So yes replace with fresh Rubber and not ones that you find at a swap meet. Go to your NAPA store of to one of our parts suppliesr on the Web and get fresh rubber inner and outer seals and cups. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

There pricing depends on if the cylinder is a step cylinder with two different size bores. You will need to call them directly. Someone stated they thought they sand blasted the cylinders. No the bore them out and then pressing a stainless steel sleeve. I would always look for a NOS Stock cylinder before buying a newer cylinder and then prefer a sleeved cylinder over the Crap that is being sold by some venders. They do very good quality work. Rich Hartung

check on ebay there are always coil of the type that you are looking for. rich hartung

go to the Monroe website and then enter your year and they will show you the correct number. Rich Hartung

SO: Basically anyone contemplating buy a NOS fuel pump should consider the age of the Pump First. The NOS old fuel pumps can be almost 60-70+ years old. The old rubber diaphram willnot support the newer based gas with the ethinol. They will still need to be rebuilt with a newer diaphram that will work with the newer gasolines. So if you can pick up even a rebuilt pump it more or less and I go with the more, that it still willneed to rebuilt becasue you do not know when it was rebuilt and the type of diaphram that was used, unless the current seller can tell you that it was rebuilt within the last year or so and also did not use a kit that was on soneones self for the past 50 years. If you are buying from a reputable rebuilder then you have a good shot of being new materials. I would only purchase a NOS pump and I mean OLD NOS pump just for backup parts only. Instead of purcasing these pumps get a backup electric 6v inline pump as a fail safe. Then get a brand new Airtex 73201 if replacing the old 588, (Airtex 73201 is the replacement pump for the AC588 that was used on our cars and trucks.). Have that in your truck or behind the seat in your truck. Then you willbe good to go. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

Don: I do alot of bike repair work and I have done my fair share of truing bicycle wheels. They make a truing gig that the hub and rim sits in and then there are two indicators that you and bring in from both sied of the rim to see where the rim is out of true. Then it is a combination of loosening and tighenting the spokes in that area to get the rim to be straight. But you also have to be careful not to get the rim out of round. Then there isa dishing tool for the rear wheel to make sure the rim is centered over the entire width of the hub. So yes I know what it takes to true a bicycle wheel so I just imagine what it takes to true a spoke wire wheel for a car. Not an easy task. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

I have had a 16 footer on my back deck for over 7 years. Yes these are a very nice unit espcially with the electric motor to extend and retract them. The hand crank is ok but takes a long time to get it open and or closed. I just hooked up some bamboo laps to the outer edge when we use it at night time. Thes are great items and I got mine thru Costco. ALso the same color as yours. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

We will all keep out fongers cross for a great report. ALso nice to see that you out driving the car again and taking some great pictures of upstate NY. Rich Hartung

The Filter Number is a NAPA Gold 2296 and it will fit just perfectly in the inner circle and the height is perfect for this air cleaner. 40Plymouth how has your health been and how is Cooper doing? Have not seen any posts of you driving the car with Cooper in the country side in Upstate NY. rich Hartung

The air cleaner that you are showing is the same that is on my 39 Desoto. There is a piece of metal lip that sticks up and this is the front of the air cleaner. That is a factory cleaner and this is not the heavy duty cleaner that would have the extra brace that bolts to the side of the cleaner and to the head. On this style air cleaner I was able to remove the old metal mesh filter and put in a Stock NAPA Gold paper air filter and it fits perfectly. I will have to look up the number but the paper is a stock filter. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Scott: To really help you we all need to know what year and model car your are needing the door checks. for. Also if you check on ebay you will also find door checks. Rich HArtung

Young Ed: Thnaks for posting Erics pictures. I have tool that is thrid from the left and this works on my 39 Desoto dash chrome bezels. Rich HArtung

Mike: Since your system has been converted to 12v I am assuming that they put a 12 volt generator in the car. Can you look on the generator to see if there is a plate on the main body of the generator. The plate should tell you the model number of the generator and also the generator manufacturer such as autolite. Also need to know if this is a postive ground or was the car convert to Negative ground. If you have this information then you should bebale to contact an Alternator/Generator repair shop and they should bebale to help get the parts and also beable to checkout th eunit to make sure it is in proper working order. For anyone to help to tell you the appropriate brushes and other parts they will need to know this information. Also there are bronze bushings and specific bushings fit specific generators. Rich HArtung Desoto1939@aol.com

There are several varieties of the tool that you just made on the Ebay. They are basically sockets that have been ground down to have the two flat notches on the ends. There is a gentleman that has made all of the sockets to fits the various bezel's for the Mopar cars and trucks. It might be our contact with the trucks parts. I can not think of his name and the name of the company but if you look an ebay you will find these tools. I have one for my 39 Desoto and it fits on a 1/4 inch socket set. Rich HArtung

To All: As many of the members already know I have several of the factory Miller Tools used to install the bushings, Instaling the Pin in the Pin and Trunion U joints, The Ammco Brake Gage and other assortment of tools. So why is it when a member is asking for assistance or is in need of the tools you go on the forum and post that you need help and are lookijng for the tools. I get the opinion that some members just think that if you have the tools you should just lend them oput to them with out any deposit on the tools. Since most of these tools were made over 50+ years ago they are not readily found even at major swap meets like Hershey. You willfind, FURD and Chevy tools in lots of the vendors, but not he Miller Tools. When you have to find them, or bid on them on Ebay and then pay the postage to get them it adds up. Yes I buy these tools for my own persoanl use but offer them to the club members to use to keep their cars and trucks running. I only ask for a deposit to insure that I get my tools returned. I do not even charge for the use of the tools. I just use your funds to ship the tool to your home and insured for the value of the deposit.And when you return the tools you get all your funds back except for the shipping charge. So why when I sak for a deposit alot of the members have a hard time with this? Would you just loan me your car or use your home without knowing me or have never met me. remember that I am sending the tools to someone that I have never met or seen, but only via forum discussions. I am the one taking the gamble becasue you could decide to keep a tool and then sellit at a local swap meet. When this happens the entire club loses out and the tool is gone and then guess what none of the other tools would ever get loaned out. I hope the members can see my point of view. Its not like I am lending you a screw driver that I can get at the local Sears store and replace it if not returned. I know money is tight for some people but if you want to play sometimes there are some cash that has to be put down so you can play. I can say that most of the members that have borrowed my tools have not had any problems but there have been a few exceptions. I have people state they are experiecne mechnaic and I guess they think I should loan them the tools without any deposit. I look forward to other members responses to my posting. Please feel free to post you input and suggestions on what you would do? Rich HArtung

The real answer is What did the prior owner have in the brake system. If the prior owner was using silicone then you should stay with silicone. If they were using Dot 3 then Dot3. Dot 3 was the original brake fluid but some people have switched over to Dot 5 or silicone brake fluid. So mixing the two is not good. To switch form one to the other you need to flush the entire brake system with denatured alcohol. replace all rubber components in MC and Wheel Cylinders and brake hoses. So need to determine what was used in the system prior to just installing DOT3. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

I have a window regulator catalog and 2 door are not the same as 4 door. The 2 door is usually a larger door to accommodate the entry and exit from the rear seat via the folding front seat. rich hartung

Ply Adams: I also get your point. It also depends on the currnet condition inwhich you are starting your project. If you have a great original car that has the original engine and the body does not need much work if maybe very little and the interior is in great shape Then I prefer to try to keep them as original as possible. Maybe some upgrade on the wiring, lights maybe to halogin bulbs etc. But if you are starting with a diamond or a mild diamond in the rough and have to do alot of work then by all means make the major modifications since you have to do so much work to get it back on the road. Yes I agree that making modifications to your liking is eveyone option and by keeping original also has it set backs. SOme of those are driving at Night, driving on freeways but that is a choice that the individual owner has to decide on with their car. I prefer to keep as original as possible but I also do like what some of you are doing with the speed equiptment and also the period correct add ons. I prefer the period add ons because this is what also was availble to the hot rodders of that time period and is keeping the car somewhat period correct. Again I am not discouraging anyone to modify their car. That is what makes the hobby so interesting and I like to see what other ideas people have. Yes I will make som mods on my 39 Desoto and one day willconvert over to the sealed beam kit even though I do not like the looks of it onthe car but eventually I will need this so I can use the car at night. But that is down the road but will also keep the original headlight configuaration if the next owner wants to convert back. Keep the ideas flowing, there are some great ones out there. You talk about the silly second gear of the three on the tree. But by going to that setup the car manufactures now chnaged how many people could sit inthe front seat. Yes some still like the old bamboo shifter onthe floor and yes they are fun to drive. But as the cars evolved so did improvements that came with progress even though not liked by everyone. Just take the Airflows. Great idea in aerodynamcis and safety which later on was implemented in our modern cars. SOme disliked it totally other loved the look and how the cars handled and drove down the road. Rich Hartung

Just think of the extra cost to do this and for what. Maybe a couple of mile per gallon more if that or the sound. Or jsut put in a big V8 inthe car with straight pipes and you willget the sound you want. But then with the bigger engine you willhave to chnage the fron configuration, possibly front disc and rear disc brakes, then want tilt steering wheel, ac bigger tires and chromies, tinted glass and it keeps going on, So if this is what you are looking for then go buy a completed Hotrod. I am not trying to be smart answered on your question, pleae understand that. If you want an antique then there are certain things that go with the car and remember the technology that was available back then. So the big question is how deep are your pockets and what do you personally want to do with the car. Some like old stock, some like some old stock with some upgrades some like a lot of up grades and some like total upgrade and hot rodded machines. To each their own style. Basically just enjoy the car and have fun with it. Just my opinion and not to discourage you from doing what you want to do, its your car. Rich HArtung

You will need to find an old brake shop that would still have the Ammco arcsafe brake grinding tool. When the repair shop would also reline the old rivited brake shoes then they would put them on the arcing machine to get the shoe to be perfect and to remove any high spots onthe brake lining and also to get them to match the arc of the drum. If the drum had been turned or cut to the max they would also shim the linings to also get a better fit. With the advent of disk brakes this is no longer being done. Even though there are still using drum brakes the linings are bonded and the mechanics no longer to the arcing and grinding. So also when the old shoes were used the linings were asbestos and this was a dangerous process of breathing in the dust. You still might find an old shop but they might not want to do this is you have old lining becasue of the asbestos and the dust. There is someone inthe club that just purchased one of the safe arc machines. You might contact them to see if they would arc your shoes. So basically most people try to get the shoes as close as possible and then let them wear into the drum arc. I have been seeing these safe arc grinders go for $700-800. That is a lot of money to have in a tool inwhich you might only arc one set of shoes. ANd even if you had the machine and charged to do the job how much could you charge and would there be enought work to offset the cost of the machione and the grinding drum sandpaper. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Lumpy: I have a 39 Desoto with the 25 inch block and stock engine setup witht he single barrel carb. Still factory. About 20 years ago my factory heat riser went south. I livee near Valley Forge Pa which just outside of Philadelphia PA. Our winters are cold but not real cold like Chicago or upstae NY. I was driving the car around Thanskgiving Season and going to our last car gathering. I noticed that when I would come to a stop light the car was acting rough. I stopped and kept the engine running. This was in a parking lot so no one was around me. Opened the hood and noticed that I was getting ici9ng at the base of the carb. So to stop this I pulled out on my throttle cable everytime I had a stop. This kept the car running faster and kep the car running with out the roughness. Over the winter I had the Heat riser replaced and have not had the icing issue, But this was before we had the new 10% ethinol gas mixture. In the winter time now I still do not have any issues, But during the summer and also on hot days after stopping the car and it has sat for awhile the engine is hard to start. I feel it is the gas issue with the perculation and not the heat riser issue or not blocking off the unit. I plan to put a heat shield under the carb to see if this helps. When I get the hard start I then pull out the throttle and this helps get the car started when in hot temps. I also have 00 6 volts cables on the battery. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Merle: On the Gray 39 Chrysler the gentleman that owns this car is from canada. When I attend the NCPC convention about 15 years ago I met this owner of this 39 Chrysler. He noticed that I had the factory rear gravel guard on my 39 Desoto. We took mine off the car and he traced the outline and then went onto make several reproduction rear gravel guards that go between the rear bumper and the body. Check it out it you get back to the show, This is avery nice 39 Chrysler and I think it even has the factory overdrive. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com

I had a similar issue. I had working taillights, brake lights and turnsignal lights prior to having the car stripped and painterd. Then reassembled the fenders and put both taillights back into the fenders. The right rear brake light would not work. I then connected a jumper clip and wire to the body of the taillight housing and then found a good bare maetal spot on the frame. AND guess what the lights worked again. After repainting the fenders I lost the good ground. So now I have a sperate ground for that light. GROUND, GROUND is so important. BAsically the car is the ground and the wire is suppling the electricity and the car is the return. Keep a good ground on the car. Rich HArtung desoto1939@aol.com