Cpt.Fred

pulled the radiator yesterday evening the way it was suggested by autonut, it was an ugly piece of work (not recommended for cars with an expensive paint job) but it came out right away. now the car looks like a complete wreck:( i'll grab the radiator later and take it over to a friend for brazing and a pressure test. i hope i won't have to do this job too often...

just ran to the record player to put that on... do you really think they had a mopar powered model-a in mind?

i had a fuel related issue like this earlier this year, the float bowl got too dry when climbing a long hill or stepping on it real hard, and when i released the throttle the engine would run on normally. just like bill said. it was a clogged filter in the end... but: you say you have "no power"... when i had this, it was more like short, fastpaced, hard cutouts, shaking the whole car rapidly. do you mean this by "the engine cut out on me" or do you mean a loss of power, like someone threw an anchor out of the back window slowing the car down? i run an electric pump and a normal b&b carb, the pump has an operating pressure of 0,3 bar at 6V operation. i don't have any problems with the float bowl valve (pressure too high) or fuel stavation (pressure too low), so i guess that's just fine. i'm not having a return line to the fuel tank. link to my threads concerning these problems: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=21631&highlight=electric+fuel+pump http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=17231&highlight=electric+fuel+pump good luck! best, fred

thanks for sharing the photos, don!

i am running two filters: one between the tank and the electric pump i use, and one in the engine compartment before the carb. i don't care if it makes a lot of sense, noone can see them, they don't cost a lot of money and i just feel better this way...

i agree on the highbeam switch. had the same problem, including measuring everthing and panic attacks, after swapping from sealed beams to EU lenses and back for getting roadlegal. when i put the sealed beams back in, nothing worked, though i had current on my indicator. found out that if i slightly touch the button down there by accident, while getting in or out of the driver'ss eat for example, headlights don't work. step on it and they come back...

quite a crowd in there...

a few folks here run electrical pumps through their mechanical ones without problems, if i recall correctly. then again, most people only use them for starting aid and switch them off afterwards, now running mechanical only. the setup you mean is quite complicated, when i put my electrical pump in i wanted it to be like that as well but found it impossible to stay on a 6V system. to be honest, i still haven't fully understood how these "kill" relays work... so now i am running electrical only (original pump was broken, so i just took it out and fabricated a metal cover for the hole in the block) through a switch under my dash and from there to the ignition. works fine and since i have it working on low pressure i don't even need a return line.

if anyone needs it, valid untill august 15th: 19553971642049 best, fred

ok, thanks! i'll try my luck with VPW then.

it seems the odds of meeting another horseless carriage on the road were a lot lower than today...

hey andy, still awake and tiping away, i see.... i think we're talking about the crank seal, the others were included in the oil pan gasket set, if i read andy b.'s catalog right. i haven't pulled the pan yet, so i do not know what it all looks like, but from my experience it must have something to do with that seal and i want to replace them all if possible when i have the pan down.

i ordered a bunch of parts from andy b. including all the seals and gaskets for the bottom of the engine, because my car leaks like a drilling rig and i hate to jump out of the car and place a cardboard piece under there every time... the package came but the front seal wasn't in it and it seems they're out of stock. i was then browsing VPW's website and they only have parts for 218 and bigger... i guess they're the same, but i wanted to know for sure from someone who really knows and not just guesses... thanks! fred

i haven't seen any bubbles in my coolant, nor have i found water in my oil, so i hope it's not the head gasket. this would end my season untimely... i started undoing the bolts of the radiator surround yesterday evening. i figure i have to take off the nose trim "bridge" to be able to vertically lift the radiator and surround out of the engine bay, but the two small slotted screws holding it in place at the front of the nose don't think the way i do... i'll put a little citric acid into the system and let it run for a while, i guess when the radiator has to be brazed anyway this can only improve the flow and clear up some passages.

nice car... do i see louvers in the window reflection?

bombs are great! if only it was so easy to put skirts on a P10 like it is on a 47 chevy... the flow of the rear fender with the "speed lines" is so difficult to deal with. some day i might try 15" rims as well, or maybe even 14"? no, that's too small. can someone tell me if the early mopar blot circle is identical to other brands, ford, maybe?

i widened up one of the slots of the original holders because i didn't know then that there are modern bulbs with bayonet socket, learned that on the board a few days ago. but it works just fine with the originals, plus you now know which contact you're going to get.

nice photos, bob! the ragtops make great wedding cars! i did that as a favor for a friend some years ago, with my old black 69 opel rekord2door sedan. he said i should drive 2 newly wed friends of him, as a surprise... i ended up with 2 people in the back i never met before that didn't say a single word the whole way long... seemed just like they weren't too happy to be married. your pics look much more relaxed!

i know what you mean, greg, but don't worry: 1. since i lost literally ALL of my coolant on the last trip (repeatedly), the system only contained clear water (and a healthy rust+ scale mixture). 2. we're working on a yard that used to be old GDR gas station, all drains and the complete structure itself are built on a sealed concrete cell containing the old gas tanks. this is so badly contaminated already from leaking russian trucks and 2 stroke oil for 50 years+ that i don't think this will make a difference. in fact, this is the only reason we're allowed to work there...

ok, on saturday i got to work on the car again. after a long talk on the phone with andyd (thanks again, mate...)i took the hood off the car for the first time and drained the coolant. not a pretty sight... afterwards i decided to look for the thermostat, before checking the radiator's flow. surprise! there wasn't any thermostat in there... good thing i had a spare lying around. i tested it in a pot, and it opend up well before boiling point, so i guess it's ok to use it. i was quite happy that there was far less crud and rust in the system (as far as i could see) than i had expected. i did a testrun afterwards hoping it would be better, and left the hood off so i could see better. i found that the radiator must have a leak in the bottom, since there is water on the front crossmember after raising the engine to operating temp. also, the flow seems a littlebit weak to me according to greg's method. out it goes! to be continued...

ok, that sounds logical to me, i never thought of that. what way is the original way, do you know? i just asked about it, because i haven't really excluded the ignition to be part of my overheat problem...

todfitch, that's interesting, i didn't know there were double filament bulbs with bayonet sockets. i wrote down the number and will check if i can get them here. makes it more comfortable to change bulbs.

great photos, thanks for sharing!

that's a great setup, robin! you're right about them beeing too close to the backlights, but you can change that in time and it's still a unique and creative solution. the most important thing is that you're seen by others. my setup is kind of a suicide solution, since lights, brake lights AND turn signal reside in the same housing and all run on 6V. oldschool, right, clean and nice,but i hate that screeching sound in my back... i thought about a third brake light that i could just fold behind the rear bumper on shows.

interesting to see that your dizzy housing is 180° reversed to mine. it wouldn't run if i had it assembled the wrong way, and it came to me that way... if i remember correctly. but who knows, sometimes the strangest things happen.