Cpt.Fred

that's right... you'd have to check with authorities, though, LEDs aren't always streetlegal (at least here they're not). just if you care, that is....

converting the parking lights in the front works great and keeps a nice, clean appearence. here's what we did to the 40's lamp housing to accept a double filament bulb: we welded in a tube the diameter of the bulb's base and bored a hole for a clamp screw: you have to cut out the reflector, though, due to the greater size of the new bulb. the back is easy to do, as the original socket accepts the double bulb when you file a little on the slots for securing the bulb. one needs to be extended a little, because the little knobs on the modern bulbs are vertically offset to prevent wrong asssembly. works just fine on my car, i use an old truck signal switch.

90° across the head, secured by a metal clamb, and then down behind the oil filler tube, a bend and then onto the vac advance. that's how it was on mine, too, but it's pretty beat already... metal clamb broke. if i'd have to replace it, i'd go for the water pump solution, too.

hey andy, sounds great! "small boy" would be better anyway, because in 75 i wasn't even planned yet:rolleyes: i am tall, though, i f that helps... hehe. i'll send you a pm! thanks a lot, over and out. i am soooooooo tired today....

what bob said. i think a definite price can only be said if one knows what really needs to be done. is it just disassemble, clean, adjust, and reassemble? or does a shaft need to be magnetised? cogs to be replaced? how many miles are on it? where has it been lying around for the last decades? and so on... from what i can tell, 200$ seems reasonable to me. i paid about 250 EUR, including shipping. there where several parts that had to be replaced and even a shaft that had to be manufactured on the turning lathe and magnetised. this was money weel spent, every works the way it should. good luck with yours!

you guys are great! i plan to remove the master cyl on saturday, afterwards i can send photos and measures! best, fred

greg: good idea! i have to check how much is left, but it just might work...! thanks! oldrat: hmm, i guess not. the masters are different, so i guess the push rod and pedal assembly is as well. but i don't know for sure, maybe someone who knows will chime in.

due to constant readjustment on my stubborn brake system, the threads on my push rod have taken major damage and so i cannot lock the nuts anymore... does anyone know where i can get such a rod in new or good used condition? otherwise i'd have to take it out and try to cut new threads on it. this won't help me cure my braking trouble, but at least i can secure the nuts again.

sorry, i meant ceramic, of course. not powder. anyway, tim, you're nasty!

that's true, IFS is a great invention. (*yikes* to the photo above. as a cowboy you can get to see al kinds of crazy stuff, even when you pee...) together with skinny bias ply wheels you can have lots of fun, even without big HP. last years winner was a 41 Plymouth coupe, i posted the pics back then. tom: absolutely, that's what the old bomber was shipped over here for in the first place!

right. i'll tell her to send any complaints directly to you per mail. hehehe.

i guess you can powder coat everything but the flanges' sealing surface. i don't know about the heat riser because i don't know your setup, but moving parts should be taken out or secured against the coating. i blocked the threaded holes on my opel's manifold and everything went fine.

congratulations! i'm sure you won't get bored... always something to do on the cars and the house, nice and easy, that's how my dad does it, and he's doing great! have fun! best, fred

hey andy, i hope i have some time on the weekend for the car, there's quite a list now on my table... as you would say: lol 1. double check ignition timing. 2. take out radiator hoses and check them 3. check thermostat (saw a spare lying around somewhere, might check that one, too) 4. put some cleaner into the system, refill it and do a testrun 5. pull the front brakedrums and check cyls since we're pulling to the right side once again:mad: 6.take the master cyl out for the 6th or 7th time, because i'm still having trouble with locked up brakes every now and then 7. take the ignition switch out and bring it to a locksmith 8. take the radio out you see, it never gets boring with these old rides... good night to you down there! fred

wild headers, moose! won't get those under my hood... what brand was the body from?

thanks, autonut! so i can take out all the bolts around the radiator frame without pulling nose and fenders... that's a good thing.

robin, it's too bad the hayride is on the same weekend like the a-bomber's this year. and it is even worse that i don't have the money for both of it:rolleyes: i've heard only good things abot the ride, have fun! and post some pics for us;)

i don't like that thought at all... guess i'll try some dish washing tablets or so what i've read here in other threads first. i'll try to flush the system under pressure and see what comes out of it. then i'll try checking the flow, what exactly do you mean with the 6" high column? i have to take a closer look to that lower outlet on the radiator, i don't remeber what it looks like. but still: anyone without HEI witchcraft on board, do i pull the vac line before adjustment or not? on my opel i had to, i remember.

greg, the track exists since 1930 as far as i know. they have regular dirt and speedway events with modern motorcycles, and they really do it the serious way. already one person killed this year:eek: i saw the pros riding there and it scared the heck out of me just to watch them. if you try searching "teterow speedway" or "bergring teterow" on youtube you should be able to see more of it. "rust 'n' dust jalopy" takes place once a year, this was the second time. it's still nice and cuddly withut so many people coming, so it's almost afamily meet. there will be another dirt course i'll go to if i can fix my heat problems. i'll post photos here when i come back:)

:D:D so i'm the one "behind", right? (yes, mom, but HE started it...) seriously, just one more time for the stupid little fred:rolleyes: how exactly do you time your engine? vac line attached to the carb or not? do you use timing light or vaccum gauge? or static timing? you know, sometimes i think i have understood something completely, and right then occurs a problem or malfunction that kicks me completety off the tracks and i'm totally confused. this time about vaccum advances and everything else related to ignition timing and possible heating...

thanks andy, btw is it morning or evening over there? you're very often the first person to answer me:) we have 11.45am over here... i put the vac advance in and hooked the vac line to it, then i checked timing with my timing light, wasn't sure if i did it right, then afterwards used a vaccum gauge and turned the dizzy untill i reached the green area on the gauge. i was i a bit of a hurry then, maybe i did it wrong? best, fred

i spoke to a good friend a few minutes ago on my radiator problem, and he asked me: "what if the radiator isn't your problem? what if it was just boiling and loosing the water through the overflow hose, and the overheating is the real problem? did you change anything on the engine before the trip?" i thought for a while and the only thing i did was putting the new vac advance in there. is it possible that a misadjusted ignition causes that much heat? the engine had enough power and, so far as i can tell, no spark ping... i'm a little confused right now, but i think my friends question is a good one.

nice videos, thanks for sharing! moose: pull the header caps for the next video, pretty pulleeeze:D great car you're having!

you guys are great, thanks! furylee: as for the speaker, do you mean that cone in the bottom of my last picture? never thought of that since there was an empty space in the dash and it seems rather strange to me to put the speaker right above the steering column under the dash, but then again, what do i know? a working 802 will be very expensive...? i guess i'll just take mine out and have a closer look at it. can't be that hard... young ed: that pile of parts isn't for sale, is it? i know a certain person badly wanting some of that stuff... since i have a lot of unwanted work ahead of me since sunday's ride back home, i'll have to move this part of the project to the winter months, anyway.