lostviking

In my mind, the hardest part for DIY is the hub. Once you have that all you need to do is put a rotor on it and a caliper. If you pressurize the caliper, it will locate for you. Point the bleed up in a location that doesn't hit anything, then make a mounting plate to hold it there. I would def do it in steel, but I've never seen one that wasn't a flat plate.

Well, I doubt it's aluminum, when most carbs are zinc, and to get a nice chromate finish, you need fresh zinc. Any stains in the surface would damage the finish. Not every YouTube video is showing you all the information needed. I had oral surgery last week to repair bone damage in my jaw from a failed "fake tooth" the Navy put in...40 years ago. So I'm not been making any real progress while I get back to sort of normal. 3 months for the bone graft to heal, then drill and screw in a stud, 3 more months, then the final "tooth". Gonna be a long summer. I'll see about getting some pictures. I'm trying to hook my real air compressor up to the soda blaster because a little tire inflator can't keep up. I think that's why the thing kept clogging. The orifice is ceramic, so no drilling it out. Tomorrow.

Did you check to ensure there is voltage at the coil? That would be the very first check.

You don't need anything but a CC to buy off of ebay these days.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125954532306?chn=ps&srsltid=AfmBOoqD1Ans0p2y5JOgG2XCz9Q6mIacwfXnHGeIHGwCo19KpW00gXUwf60

I'd suggest looking at the picture in the part manual for the proper installation of the rod. Mine has full throttle, and matches the pictures for a 1946. Perhaps they changed it in the 48 and up. Does it connect to the top of the pedal (46 does) or the bottom? Either way the parts manual is cheap and it has pictures.

That's about all the travel in my 46 truck.

OK, that was pretty impressive for a household cleaner. I mixed it 1:1 with water and heated it to 50C. I'd say most if not all of the crud is gone. I'm not reassembling the carb today, because I still want to soda blast some zinc oxide on a few surfaces. I hope "fixing" the orifice allows me to use the soda blaster. If not, I've got some small brushes for my Dremel. I will just need to keep the speed very low to void any damage. Not a bad day.

15 minutes to go, and the Zep is getting pretty dirty looking. Seems to be taking crub off.

OK, back at it today...I bought this airbrush that is specifically supposed to be used as a media blaster: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KNAH06?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details. Orifice is too small to use baking soda, so I question the usefulness. It clogs immediately. Removing the orifice from the nozzle and it doesn't have enough velocity to clean and just pours the soda out. I'm going to take the orifice to work and drill it out some. Maybe. In the mean time, I've bought some Zep citris cleaner. I've fill the ultra sonic cleaner 1:1, which is for medium crud, and I'm heating it to 50C right now. I'll give it 30 minutes and then rinse. We'll see how that works. People swear by the Zep online, so I'm hoping. This is the clean carb, so there isn't much to remove. I'll let you know.

Anyone interested in restoring a carb? You should watch this video: He built a expensive system...you don't need to in order to get good results. I think he is over selling a bit. I found another video on just the zinc plating and they guy only used kitchen supplies. His looked just as good for the plating part.

I've spent some time looking at ways to clean the probably zinc oxide. There were chemical solutions given, but all had warnings about etching the carb bodies, and that's a problem for me. What I decided to do is go back to how I would have solved this in the early 80's, when I was in the Navy...soda blaster. I spent about $44 including tax to buy an airbrush that is specifically for etching, not just spraying paint. It's pretty small, so I will be able to get into all the tight spaces...oh, that cost included buying 2.5lbs of soda. Didn't want to use up the wife's kitchen supplies and get yelled at This is I suspect the very best way. There are ways to do a home zinc chromate coating to protect the metal also. I'm thinking about doing more carbs, which is why I'm investing more than is reasonable for the two carbs. I see lots of carbs that have been reman'd selling for $300 or more...and I can buy the raw ones for $100 or less. Even bushing are just $5 or so. I may get into this service. I think I can make a few bucks and help some people out. The WA-1's I have, I've got about $120-$150 into. that includes the rebuilt kits. A bit of labor and they are selling for what I mentioned above. Pretty good return I think

OK, not highly impressed. I have mixed feelings on this I guess. I don't think Dawn is good at getting stubborn items off the aluminum parts. Any of the whitish residue you see on a carb that was sitting, not a bit of help. All the steel and brass, not bad. Rust marks on steel, nothing, but both are otherwise spotless. To be fair, the aluminum parts are pretty clean of normal grime also, but not as good as carb dip IMHO. I'm going to take a bit more time to look at suggestions online. The ultrasonic cleaner is a good buy in my opinion, but the solution (soap and water) isn't up to taking care of an old carb. That was expecting too much, but it was cheap to give it a try. Now I'll look at something else to put the carb parts into that need more. The good thing is I only need to put the carb parts in a plastic container, fill that and let the rest of the tank just get filled with water. Minimizes the chemical use, and disposal. I do that to clean circuit boards at work using IPA. One additional comment. Everything got sprayed off with B12 anyway, because I didn't turn on my compressor. If I had, I would just have used air. If it was steel, I hit it with WD40 after the B12 to stop rust from forming. This stuff is very grease/oil free, so that is necessary. More to follow. If anyone else had done this and has a suggestion for something to clean the aluminum parts, please chime in.

I bought an ultrasonic cleaner off Amazon, and I'm cleaning one of my WA-1 carbs. I'm using heated water with Dawn dish soap. I'll vary the time depending on needs. 20 mins cleaned just about everything, but I put it back in for another 15 mins. I'll let you know, but I think this is a big win. The other plus, is that although I stripped the carb like I was doing it the old school way, you don't really have to with an ultrasonic cleaner. I use one at work for things we place in ultra-high vacuum, so I'm familiar with how clean it can get things.

Yep. I took some WD40 to the dirty one and sure enough, 413S on the side. They would both make a good carb after rebuilding.

Decided to use them, no longer for sale.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/395207350206?

You got me wondering, so I took some pictures. Maybe the larger due to the slotted flanges?

Don't really know for sure right now, just that they are identical and have manual chokes. Who knows, I might just sell them after all. George Asche Jr is still offering B&B carb's he setup along with the throttle linkages. 92 years young and still doing what he loves. He's a great person to talk with, and both him and Tim Kingsbury are pretty friendly and willing to share their knowledge. They actually lived and did it, so it's from the horses mouth so to speak. Unlike some who talk a lot, but don't do.

That was probably your trouble. Mine has after market motors, because it came with vacuum motors. Never had the wipers move without the motor doing it. I'm going to put the vacuum motors back in since I rebuilt them and like the originality. I live in southern California, and I never intentionally drive in the rain.

With, IMHO, a better option, I'm no longer going to use the Offy intake. It's never actually been installed, so I think I'll end up selling it. I am going to use the Carter WA-1 carbs, just need to put the rebuild kit's I have in them. Both are clean, but not freshly "dipped".

The reason I started this project was because I had the belief that the AoK adapter plates were no longer available. I wouldn't post a copied design otherwise. I spoke with George Asche for the first time today and he tells me that they are doing another run of the adapter plates. I'm therefore going to purchase one from him. His contact information or Tim Kingsbury's has been posted by Tim, so I won't redo that here. Cheers.

Taking a closer look at the AoK adapter I was trying to copy, I realized I had mirrored it partially. Here is a new image. The exact outline is NOT the same as the AoK part, because I'm only including a single bellhousing pattern. The adapter also only bolts to the bell using flathead bolts. The mounts for the transmission will be straight tapped holes and the trans mounts as per normal.

The use of flathead bolts is exactly how the adapters previously offered for this were designed. IDK if they used them for mating the adapter to the stock bell or not right now. I may change to a steel adapter plate, locating it then weld it to the bell. It's all in flux right now, but it's been done mostly as I've shown it and it worked. You just can't buy that adapter anymore. I work as a design engineer right now, and live in Solidworks every day. Things often look great on the screen, but the models don't always tell you everything. I can't find a model for the stock bell, or even accurate drawing to create one. Same for the trans. If anyone can supply drawings for the bellhousing or an A833, I would create a solid model and that would be available to anyone who wanted it.

Yes, use a master from a car/truck that has disk/drum brakes. From what I've read, smaller bores change the firmness of the pedal. I can't remember which way. So long as the volume of fluid is enough to move the wheel cylinders and calipers enough to lock the brakes, that's the big difference. I'm sure there are numerous articles that explain the pedal travel changes, so I won't tax my memory and get it wrong. As far as the flange, take a look at my thread on installing the Scarebird brakes in my truck. I literally just ran a larger drill through the holes and was able to install it.