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Everything posted by lostviking

  1. The rear also drags on the fender a bit, at least the protector...which is also missing I think from the front. There are a number of alignment issues I believe on this truck that will need to be sorted out when I repaint it.
  2. The body lines seems to line up, but there is a big gap at the bottom of the front of the hood. This is the same on both sides. I don't see anything to adjust to change that gap. The fender and the part of the body just under it seem like they are installed properly, but it's hard to tell with ever having seen another one in person.
  3. Another good day in the garage. I'm still waiting for my engine stand to get here, but that isn't stopping me. I got the cam out today by holding the lifters up with wire or gunk, depending on the lifter. After the cam was out I pushed the lifters down into the pan. Only had the one just to the front of the fuel pump hang up on the crank, but that was easy to move around through the hole. Cam has light surface rust on the lobes, but little to no wear. More and more looking like a very low mileage engine.
  4. Here's another set on ebay. There are probably more. Google is your friend. https://www.ebay.com/i/273820002094?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=273820002094&targetid=484372159119&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031357&poi=&campaignid=8080423831&mkgroupid=86416348947&rlsatarget=pla-484372159119&abcId=1139446&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxrbwBRCoARIsABEc9siLsBSzhOhEI0oX8YgzsuPHNaByLSYzT9VCrLOfxvAadLmGGQ7qPa4aApUIEALw_wcB
  5. My 46 WD15 has them on the door handle and window cranks. Maybe a bit worse for wear. That's what keeps the pins from dropping out that hold the handles on.
  6. I'm leaning towards a B-body 8-3/4, but the Jeep 8-1/4 is also a good rear end. I like the 8-3/4. I've had both, but I've been inside more of the larger ones. From what I read they are both as easy to swap, and I like the drop out pumpkin. Depends on which I find around here. There is a Mopar only wrecking yard not too far away.
  7. Another mile sto..er step today. I picked up a KD-700 spring compressor off ebay and it got here yesterday. Today I put on some gloves and went elbow deep in the muck. I was able to get all the valves, springs, retainers and keepers off (lost one into the oil pan, missed plugging a hole). Since I've been keeping the valves wet, they all came out pretty easily. The more I see, the more I believe the 63K is the actual mileage on this motor. The faces of the valves have some build up, but the stems and even the rear of most are very clean. You can still read the lettering on them. The lifter
  8. Thanks Ed. Since our trucks share the same frame, the 94 would fit mine also. I've heard the Dakota axles are a perfect fit also, if anyone has experience with that, I'm still gathering option information. I can't remember, or find the post, but one of them even uses the drive shaft without modification. I think there is enough interest with things like this and T5 swaps that it should be in the tech section with as much information as possible. That would help the most people IMHO. Thanks everyone who responded.
  9. No, a WD15 is a 3/4 ton truck. I'll be putting disks on the front later, but those will also be 5 on 4.5.
  10. I usually like to search, because I see a lot more than what I was originally looking for that way. But, I've been looking for 30 mins now and can't find a thread. I'm sure I've seen one, but... I want to get 1) a better gear ratio and 2) get better brakes for my truck. I'm planning on keeping the 230 and 3 speed. I want to upgrade the rear and I've read, somewhere, that either a Dakota or Jeep rear end of the correct year (drum brakes so the wheels still fit) was a fairly good weld/bolt in. Does anyone know the correct year? Thank you.
  11. The clutch seems to chatter a bit, so today I took the inspection cover off. I was happy to see it was dry inside and didn't look bad at all. I was worried the rear main might be leaking. Next I went to the rear to see where a noise was coming from. The stud to retain the spare tire arm (goes under the spare) was loose in the frame. A flat washer and lock under the nut fixed that. Last I decided to go at the chrome hub caps. They were covered in small pitting, as you can see from the before picture. I used a metal polish and 3 inch foam pad on my drill to get rid of that. Didn't pull the
  12. There are a lot more WD40 products than the original one. I also like to use it as a cleaner. What I've been using however is WD40 rust release penetrant. https://www.walmart.com/ip/WD-40-SPECIALIST-RUST-RELEASE-PENETRANT-SPRAY/19887414?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=282&adid=22222222227025385401&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=62687841648&wl4=pla-89022265728&wl5=9031337&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111838817&wl11=online&wl12=19887414&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQiAno_uBRC1ARIsAB496IWE_37tY39aQt9gISiG_DZe3kWHs0valvN4GTgV1bjAOwipJ9cCwhMaAsiHEALw
  13. Got the cam moving yesterday! Some of the valves are stuck in their guides, but some move up and down. I'll keep the rest wet with WD40. I've got time, it's not like I'm getting ready to rebuild it right away.
  14. Good point. On the bell housing I did hit it with a wire brush, that isn't debris in the picture, just areas that didn't get a good coating. I the peddles I didn't, but there was no lose stuff and the surfaces are very nice. One note, on area's that are NOT rusted the Corroseal can be removed. It doesn't seem to attach to bright metal surfaces. I only tried scrapping a little and it wasn't even that hard. But on the rust areas it is like a rock.
  15. Not to beat a dead horse, but here is one side of a bell housing, velvety rust covered...and the other side after I used the Corroseal. I've got some brake and clutch pedals and the rod that I also did. They look like I painted them black. I applied the product twice to those parts.
  16. Slacked off the valve adjustments yesterday. Only one lifter was slightly stuck in it's bore. Tapped the wrench lightly with a 2x4 piece a couple times, back and forth. Now nice and loose. I've been keeping it wet with WD40 all through that area. I put the timing gear back on the cam, but it won't budge yet. I'm going to remove as many of the springs and lifters as I can and go from there. Really just assessing the engine right now, but it's fun to take it apart. Won't be rebuilding it for a long time yet. If I get the whole thing broken down, I might send the block out though. Have it cl
  17. I got a T112 serial numbered engine along with my truck, that is supposed to be the original motor. I'm working on getting a build card from Chrysler that will include the engine serial number. I've removed the head (one broken bolt) and the manifolds previously. Today I pulled off the timing cover, and the wife and I did a lot of scrapping of "stuff" from the exterior. Actually she did most of that today, which surprised me greatly. I think she's really getting into having an old truck. We did take another drive today before starting Anyway the reason I took the timin
  18. Harbor Freight has a 750lb 1000lb four wheel engine stand for $67. Crates are fine for storing an engine, my spare is on one. But I'm starting to disassemble it so I'm going to buy one of the HF ones. You need to spin the engine and I'm not into laying it on a bench and flopping it around. I think the engine stands are pretty low cost.
  19. Just remember to sand anything you want smooth before you treat it. The result will eat even the best emery cloth.
  20. Thank you. I'll send off a request. I see from the one posted in the next posting that the motor number is included, so that is exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks again.
  21. Put the lock in without any drama. Doors lock fine now Nice looking dash!
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