lostviking

OK, so I'm not going to pull a Tom Brady, this is really the last in this thread, but there was one last thing I needed to do. The passengers side fender needed the correct parts. Pulled it today, striped the felt crap off and attached the repop material I bought. Needless to say, the fender fits correctly now and has a nice even gap at the bottom. No more rubbing when you try to open it

Those sure look like they were intended for your truck. On mine there was daylight all around them. Good idea to trim the center. I'd use Shoe Goo to glue the bottoms back together.

Most camera's these days create pictures too large. I open them in Microsoft paint, the old one, and just resize them to 50%. At the same time it removes a lot of extra data the camera put into the file, you don't need that. I rename the files with sm for small on the end of the file name, so I still have the full size image also.

Great solution. I wish I'd have thought of that.

One last post before I end this thread. The mat. I still need to final trim it a bit, and remove the white markings. Not bad for $37. It's not the smooth rubber I was expecting, but kind of sintered together. I can vouch that it's tough. I ended up using my sheet metal shears.

I still intend to fix the running board, but I have to wait a bit to get the tool made. I'll get it done, and painted.

Here is why the paint is "good enough". Some shots of the rest of the truck. That mess is what he put between the fenders and the rest of the truck everywhere. You can see how careful he was with whatever that black stuff is.

Mounting the fender using the correct parts, means the hood gap is correct now. The PO didn't use the correct filler, so the fender gets pulled up into the cab, as you can see at the rear of the hood.

So, I guess I'm at the "good enough" point, so I moved the truck out into the driveway to take a few pictures.

Another thing I was adding because they just were not here, was the dust and draft seals for the clutch and brake pedals. Unfortunately, what everyone sells even out to Steele Rubber do not fit my truck even remotely. The don't fit around the pedals and they don't come close to filling the holes around the pedals in the floor. The holes have not been cut as far as I can see, but the seals I purchased won't cover the entire opening. I had read about people getting them over the pedals, I tried all that hot water and stuff, not even close. I figured I'd cut them, put them in place and glue them back together with "shoe goo". It's a very good product for gluing rubber together and it stays flexible. Problem was the seals as I said left large open area's and they don't fit around the pedal. Maybe 3/4 ton are different or something. I'll have some of the rubber mat left over, maybe I'll do something with that.

When I started this, I removed, with malice the old floor mat. The PO missed a few spots on hole placement, so it had some extras. I looked at them on Roberts and DCM, and while they look perfect the price of $140+ was a bit steep I though. Now, it does include the backing, but mine is fine. I went on Amazon and found a 4'x6' "workout mat" that is 3mm of rubber. Not foam or anything like that, but rubber. Some of the commenters were using it to top their work benches. I will make a template from cardboard and most likely get the holes in the correct locations the first time. Should be here next Thursday (holidays). It was around $60.

It's alive! I still have work to do on the fender paint, buff buff buff. I put the headlamp back on today with the new hardware I got from DCM, and I put the battery back in. It was fully charged. I cranked it awhile with the ign off until I saw the oil needle move, not continuous of course. One push to set the carb and it cranked right up. I'll have to get more gas for it, because it's been on e the whole time, but it was nice to hear it run. I need to move a few things out of the way, but I can move the truck now. As soon as I've done a few short shakedown trips, and recheck torques on everything, I'll start hauling the old parts to metal recycler. No other options have presented, so I'm putting the front brakes, rear axle and the other engine across the scales. Not my first choice, but I can't seem to give them away, so away they must go.

DCM shipped already. Of course I still have to wait out the break in period. Edit: got here today!

Never really good enough I went out and wet sanded with some 800 on a few of the spots I could reach without moving everything again. I took a shot of the dark spots in another area to compare. After bringing the paint level and compounding/polishing...you can't tell it was ever there. Ya! There was a huge dark area right there on the rear of the fender. It's gone. You can see other area's I sanded, but haven't finished off yet. The wife isn't keen on my taking over the garage again right now, so next week I guess. The screws for the lamp will be here by then maybe, so I can move it into the driveway???

Thanks, yes they are special. I was going to make one, but now I won't have to cut a screw down on the lathe. The spots I touched the paint up show right now. I thought they were level when I was wet sanding, but after the buff/polish, they were darker looking. Getting up closer I see they are just a lot smoother. They aren't really flush, so the buffing pad did a better polish on them. I'll have to wet sand again in those spots, but I'm done for right now. I want to get it back together and start the darn thing. It's been quite awhile. I'll move it into the driveway to finish the sanding. Better light might help.

Patients is not my middle name I found them at DMC and ordered two sets. We'll see how long it takes to get them. Only $3, so no reason to try something IMHO.

I've gotten to the "good enough" point. Now I'm putting the head lamp back on, and of course while I thought I put all the fasteners in the bucket, I either didn't or some dropped out at some point. I can't find what I believe are the two screws to mount the "head lamp seat" to the inside of the bucket. I'm having a hard time making sure what size they are also. It is part number 865 336 in the book, but no size information is given. Anyone have a size they can share?

I love electrolytic rust removal. It's easy and works like a charm. I used it to completely clean up a rusty heater I bought off Ebay. Looked like new when I finished the repaint. Tim

I wanted to remove more of the fine scratches so I went back with finer sand paper and did some more wet sanding. This time it actually has a nice dull shine even without the compounding. But, that big word, there are some places where the orange peel is kind of rough. As I learn, I've had that before. Instead of trying to sand it out, and take the chance of going through. I mixed a small amount of paint/hardener and used a foam brush to apply a layer to those areas. It flattens out pretty good with the foam brush. I'll got back at it with 600 tomorrow maybe. I found a few "dimples" in the paint and I used some of the paint to fill them also. I'll take some pictures after I finish sanding it out. Or maybe after I'm done

Have you tried the usual places, Roberts et cet? Mine is the next generation, but they had all mine. Also, if you are gluing rubber back together, use something called "shoe goo" It's for fixing shoes, but I just repaired a ripped gasket for my garbage disposal. It bonds well and stays flexible.

Another round of compound, this time with the softer pad. Then a bit of scratch remover. There are plenty of fine scratches, but it will do I guess until I can get a real paint job. Before I put the welting and filler on, I did the first 2-3 inches of the fender. That way I could mask it off and the area under the tape would already be polished. Still need to do the front of the fender, after I remove the bumper. As I go, I find places that still need sanding to remove the orange peal. I stop and do them, then compound and polish. I work pretty slow, just ask the wife.

Wet sanding and first round of compounding done. I need to remove the front bumper to get the very bottom. I see a few places the paint might need to be "patched". I'll 320 the defects out and see if I go through. If I do, I'll brush a few coats of paint on the spots, and repeat the sanding to blend. I've had to do that once already, so I can do it. Enjoy the weekend everyone.

So far, so so. I'm ready to finish the paint. All the fasteners are just snugged at best. Rear of the running board isn't attached to the rear fender. Front running board support isn't tightened (it's a bolt on now.) Considering the mess, and I should have taken a picture before I started disassembly, but I just couldn't bring myself to, it's not too bad. First time it's had the proper fender filler and welting on it also. Edit: One thing I see, is that the fender fits much better now. The hood used to drag on the fender, now there is a nice even gap along the bottom.

Got the filler and welting on today. Ready to hang the fender and finish the rest of the paint.

True enough. The gauge has .050 inch increments. I'll just fit a spline to points once I can get them accurately measured at a specific step increment. It should be very close to perfect, but to the eye...it will be