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Everything posted by lostviking

  1. So, many have done this to get a modern rear and brakes under their trucks. Mine is a 46 WD15. Right now it sits way up in the rear, and for a 3/4 ton I can understand that. I'm never going to load it like that again. I wanted to ask what leaf springs people are using when they do the swap. Mine are 75 years old, they need to be replaced anyway. I don't want to just buy another set of stock ones, then take out leafs to get them down. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  2. Not really. I don't like the idea of cutting part of one frame off and welding it to mine after doing the same. The Fatman IFS can be undone, since there are no changes to the frame other than some welds and fish plates. Chopping off the front of my frame is not. I know some like this approach. I see it as something that was done when there were no alternatives. I do like all Mopar, and the brakes on the Fatman are not, but that's not much of a problem for me.
  3. After a lot of thought, I have decided to sell off my two motors (one running in the truck, the other in pieces) and transmissions (one in the truck, the other a rebuilt I got with the truck). When I do the front end, which I will be doing, I'll set it up for a sb Mopar. I also plan on a Cherokee 8.25 rear end. Depending on tire diameter, either 3.55 or 3.73. The later seems to be a lot more common. Thanks for all comments.
  4. Wow, those are batshit crazy expensive. I'm looking on ebay for some Stromberg BXOV-2 carbs. I got that from another forum as a recommendation. Same website suggested that two stock carbs might be too rich, but then what's the diff also. Rejet. If I can get two matched Strombergs I'll think about it, otherwise I'll be looking for another stock one I guess.
  5. I frankly don't know anything about the various 1 barrel carbs. I'd like to use the Offy dual 1 barrel intake on my 230 (after the rebuild), but I don't know what carbs to use. Should I find another one like the single that is on the motor now? Is there a better choice? TIA.
  6. No worries, this is a social website. Thanks for the replies. I don't see any problem with a sb Mopar either. I've read about plenty of them being done. I know there is room, without cutting the firewall. I don't really need to worry about the steering box either as the Fatman front end is rack and pinion.
  7. I'm thinking hard about putting a Fatman IFS and a Cherokee rear end in my truck (1946 WD15). I want to be able to drive it out of town, not just on side streets. I'm also thinking of a new transmission, either a T5 or A833 OD. The question is do I just go for it and change the motor too, or rebuild the original block (as a 230, since I have the crank and rods)? I like the flathead motor, it's smooth and strong with a few mods at least. But a much newer design would probably be the last motor this truck ever sees for me at least. It's not like I'd be holding onto it still being ori
  8. Its your truck, but I think you are glossing over the part that THEY will issue you the metal tab the stickers must be affixed to. You home made one is not legal, and it never will be. The law specifically states they will issue the metal tab, the part you cut out of context refers to where THAT tab is to be mounted. Your truck. I'm sure it will fly OUT OF CA, until someone wants to be a d_ck to you.
  9. There are specific rules. Here it is from the horses mouth. Pretty simple, and entirely flexible. You must use the supplied tag well. It must be attached as instructed. This wasn't reportedly said by someone who doesn't make the rules anyway. https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/handbook/vehicle-industry-registration-procedures-manual-2/special-plates/year-of-manufacture-yom-license-plates/
  10. Interesting build and dyno on a Jeep 4.0 stroked using a Jeep 4.2 crank.
  11. Actually, that's not legal. CA provides a small "tab" that has to be attached to the plate. That's the only legal way. I don't know if you'd get away with it out of state or not, but in CA you would not.
  12. Looking online, I found an article by the company...that did this on a 47 1/2 Ton. They did move the radiator forward of the stock mount, but none of it looked that hard (for someone who can weld, unlike me). You could contact them. I read it a few weeks ago, so I don't have the link right now, but Google is your friend.
  13. The heater is done, has been, and is ready to install. I need to fabricate the above mount adapter first. The only thing I'm still doing is restoring the red paint in the Mopar Deluxe badge and the defroster pull handle. I painted it with a red paint pen. After I do a couple coats I'll buff the non-paint areas with a scotch brite pad. I already did this with the badge, and it came out OK. I over buffed a couple spots, probably because I only put one coat of paint. This time I'll fill 'er up, then buff. Looked pretty good the first time, so I think it will come out nice.
  14. I spent a little time today working on a drawing for the heater adapter. Something that became obvious to me, is that the adapter Young Ed was kind enough to send me pictures of, is for a different model than the model 31 I have. The tubes for the water are closer together than for the plate he photographed. I set the hole spacing at 4-5/8, which is what I can measure for my Model 31 heater. I did not change the rest of the dimensions, so only time will tell if that all still works. I'm going to fabricate one from my drawing. I'm a mechanical designer though, not a drafter. Sure, I
  15. I had zero problem, after I listened to the instructions and let the paint dry.
  16. If it's humid, the paint will take at least a week to be ready for another coat. If you do anything that breaks the surface, like sanding...another week. I ended up starting over several times because I had reactions. Your seems pretty small if that's the only place. Just give it a week (or two) and wet sand it. Then give it another week and do some touch up, or do the clear. Good luck. Patients is the key. I learned that the hard way.
  17. Exactly. the clear gives you something to sand into without hitting your base color coat. I didn't put so many coats on the letter though, but I don't see any harm. The trick to the wet sanding is to go slow, and get the plate held down as flat as possible. I used the four bolt holes, but placed some washers behind the plate due to the depth of the ridge around the outside. I also got lucky and found a perfect condition number plate for my 1946. Didn't have to work on that. I see you found all the small pits in the metal. I used a few coats of high build primer, after o
  18. With Young Ed's help, I think I've got a pretty accurate model of the sheet metal part that goes between the heater and the firewall. As soon as I've finalized one last detail, I'll publish drawings that will allow anyone to recreate the part. This is what it looks like. I need to get the proper hole sizes, and exact X, Y locations from Ed. I can also try dropping the pictures he sent me into a CAD drawing, but that will have some error to it.
  19. OK, I tried to repair the clamp band today. It didn't go too well. I bought some aluminum brazing rods, but can't get them to stick to the metal...so I guess it's not aluminum. Probably tin then? I used my MAP torch at first, but it has WAY to much heat and the torch nozzle is too big. I ended up melting a quarter inch or so of the material away. The second thing I learned from that is that the metal ends up having a slightly yellow color after it's melted. I've got another idea. I was hoping to make something that was not visible, but then this part isn't visible anywa
  20. Almost done I need to repair the band that clamps the two halves, and refinish the paint on the "Deluxe" badge and the defroster pull handle. But here is what it looks like. The studs that go through the motor clear, and so did the fan shaft, so I'm leaving them alone. I initially tried to rivet the door handles back on, but the nose on my rivet gun is too large and damaged the surfaces. I used screws, nuts and Loctite. Just need to fabricate the mounting adapter at the firewall, and get the large nuts that hold it in. Oh, and switch, h2o valve...minor stuf
  21. I wonder which is better, mine says I'm a dirty old man. Tim
  22. Oh, no screws...I'm soaking them in vinegar to get the rust off. Very minor amount and then I'm paint some Coroseal on them.
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