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Everything posted by lostviking

  1. did you check ebay? Here's one for only $20 plus shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1948-Colorado-License-Plate-tag/193606987785?hash=item2d13e03009:g:-3EAAOSwOKpfJcE5 Another for $36...https://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-1948-Colorado-silver-black-LICENSE-PLATE-unrestored/392741277075?hash=item5b71344d93:g:JL0AAOSwdHteZ9UX
  2. The medallion and the hands/tabs on the various doors are riveted on, so I'm going to have to dremel them off before I do any painting. I'm also going to remove the screens. The just have some small tabs bent over them. Easy.
  3. Here is the other half before I ran it through the bath. The pictures above had the same paint (some still there), but the electrolytic process takes you down to bare metal. I'll need to get some more VHT self-etching primer to protect the metal once I wash the parts post rust removal.
  4. I'm starting a more appropriately titled thread to finish this. You can find it here:
  5. I'm starting a new thread to show this restoration, rather than continue to use the "What Heater fits..." thread I started when I was trying to find a heater. I'm not going to move the content related to the restoration, but you can still see it here: The beginning of the project to restore the heater is there, I'm picking it back up with the rust removal of the rest of the box and associated parts. Today I did the first half of the main box. I again used a power supply and a bucket of water with Washing Soda it in. The details can be seen on the previous thread. Nothing new there
  6. Well, I fried the power supply finishing that second part. Way too much load, although it was supposed to be protected from excess current. I guess that circuit didn't work all that well. I've got schematics and troubleshooting information specific to this supply, so I'll fix it...if it's not the input transformer. If that is damaged, it's not worth the repair cost. The reason that second part hurt the supply is simply that is has a huge amount of surface area. The current increased due to this and just was too much for the poor old RS-4A to handle. Luckily I work in el
  7. 1945 and 1946 specifically require only one plate, because that is all that was issued. White on black as shown above are the correct colors. Interestingly enough, the 46 tag that gets riveted onto the 1945 plate for 1946, is yellow with black numbers. I tried a yellow and black plate when I first registered the truck, because I didn't know any better then. The DMV clerk did. She had it right on her computer screen, which she showed me. She knew that is was a black with white plate, and that there was only one issued. I should be good. Thanks for all comments though, they are well
  8. Still working on this. I've been a bit of a nit picker over details, so I've restarted several times from bare metal. This last time around I'm fairly happy. When I sanded the black off the lettering, with 4 coats of clear over several coats of white, I did sand through a couple spots. That's due to the plate not being flat, although I could have been more careful. Today I sprayed some of the white into a small container, and used a very fine brush to touch up the few places I went through. There were a couple black spots that showed also, so I covered them also. It's been about 2-
  9. Try youtube. There is a guy on there who goes through a complete rebuild, over several videos. From tear down to complete. As far as gasket sets, Summit has a complete gasket set for $117 and change. That sounds like a good price to me. Bearing and rings depend on what your engine needs. RockAuto is a good source to try. Remember that the engine didn't change, so different years than yours still work fine.
  10. And lastly for today, that second part with some primer on it.
  11. After cleaning and primer. On to the next part. This one has a lot of surface area, and with the solution already being dirty with oxides...it loads the power supply too much with it all the way in. I'll do most of it, then new solution and finish it off. I'm using non-conductive insulators at the bottom of the part to keep it from touching the anodes.
  12. OK, here's the first part after only 1 hr. It's plenty good for me. The really shiny clean parts are where there used to be paint. The black is where the rust used to be. Quick wash job and steel brush, then VHT self-etching primer.
  13. Finally back working on the heater again. Today I'm using electrolysis to remove the surface rust from the sheet metal parts on the heater box. I started by buying some rebar hooks off Amazon, some washing soda (sodium carbonate, not bicarbonate) and some steel wire. I had some heavy 10AWG copper wire, which I stripped and then used to connect the rebar together. I'm using a 5 gallon pail, filled with water and about 1 tblsp of washing soda per gallon. You can see from the video below the setup, the polarity and what I'm using as a power source. It seems to be working rather well.
  14. Quaker State straight 30wt, dyno oil.
  15. I didn't expect to have to punch a hole through the top of the "sock" to do it, but that wasn't so hard. I got it started and worked the material over and around the tube from the bottom of the canister. 5 quarts later came that sick feeling couple of seconds before the oil pressure jumps to 45-50 at idle. Now I can drive the rest of the year probably, do it again next year. Not that many miles get put on her, less than the 2500 my insurance is setup for. Runs very quiet at idle. Valves are still adjusted nicely. While I was letting the oil drain, I crawled under and dabbed some
  16. Engines/cars are still rated by crank HP. The deal today is that accessories that are standard equipment, like power steering must be installed on the engine during the testing. The standard is SAE J1349.
  17. Got my VHT self-etching primer today. Painted it and did my best to get between the fins. Now I'll get some radiator black and finish the job.
  18. Did a cold water flush on the core today. Great flow and nothing at all came out. Seems pretty clean inside. I spent a bit of time washing the outside, then after drying I treated the surface of the steel with Coroseal to convert any surface rust and prevent any new from forming. I love that stuff. I've got a can of VHT self-etching primer to go at it with, then I'll paint it. I figure a radiator black would work best.
  19. Thanks for trying to help, and thank you for dropping it. I was probably a bit harsh, but I was also very specific that I would not alter the truck from it's 100% original appearance. Hiding a modern filter inside of the original canister does that, but anything external to the canister is not. Near is not exact. Thanks for your understanding.
  20. Thanks for that picture. Over time, I forgot which part at the top was white.
  21. Not done yet...You might have noticed I'm a pick nitter, so I will touch up the edges of the 8. The 3 is probably fine. I don't want it to look too good, they didn't originally. I used a dense foam block to sand, 2000 grit. But I pushed too hard on the 8 and it deformed over the edge. that why the bottom right looks like that. I started on the other end and was rushing a bit by the last character. The CAL at the top and 45 on the other end are the only other parts that still need white. Then clear over it all to give it some protection.
  22. Did the wet sanding tonight. It works like a charm. You need to make sure you have several clear coats, I did the five that were recommended. I still need to use a fine brush to paint in the small recessed letters on the top of a California 1945 plate with some more white. After that cures, I'll spray several clear coats over everything. I think it's going to come out pretty good after all.
  23. I don't know how much plainer I can put this. Thank you, but I'm not interested in near original. Please stop.
  24. Haven't talked about this in a while, so here's the update. I contacted Rustoleum and asked them about the problems I was having. Simply put, it doesn't matter how long it has been since you sprayed, if you break the surface (wet sand), then you need to wait another 48 hours before spraying again. I started basically from bare metal again. I used spot putty all over the plate to fill in the pits. Then I wet sanded, sprayed high build primer, wet sanded...et cet until I was OK with the finish. I waited the 48 hours between any time I broke the surface and the next painting. I'm on m
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