lostviking

The use of flathead bolts is exactly how the adapters previously offered for this were designed. IDK if they used them for mating the adapter to the stock bell or not right now. I may change to a steel adapter plate, locating it then weld it to the bell. It's all in flux right now, but it's been done mostly as I've shown it and it worked. You just can't buy that adapter anymore. I work as a design engineer right now, and live in Solidworks every day. Things often look great on the screen, but the models don't always tell you everything. I can't find a model for the stock bell, or even accurate drawing to create one. Same for the trans. If anyone can supply drawings for the bellhousing or an A833, I would create a solid model and that would be available to anyone who wanted it.

Yes, use a master from a car/truck that has disk/drum brakes. From what I've read, smaller bores change the firmness of the pedal. I can't remember which way. So long as the volume of fluid is enough to move the wheel cylinders and calipers enough to lock the brakes, that's the big difference. I'm sure there are numerous articles that explain the pedal travel changes, so I won't tax my memory and get it wrong. As far as the flange, take a look at my thread on installing the Scarebird brakes in my truck. I literally just ran a larger drill through the holes and was able to install it.

I used this one Duralast Brake Master Cylinder NM55022. Sorry Jim, I didn't see your question earlier, but my truck is a WD15, so next earlier design. I'm not sure if there was a big change in that specific area, but I have no clearance problems at all with mine.

It is bolted to the original bolt holes. On the tran side, the center hole matches the correct A833 bearing retainer. There are different sizes, so this only works on the one that I picked. Simple change for anyone who chooses a different one. The rest is the same. It's not a final design because I need to look at the outline. Don't have anything to look at right now, and I'm having $5K in dental done, so I'm distracted.

This is what I've got. I used flathead bolts to create "studs for the transmission, and flathead bolts to mate the adapter plate to the bell housing. I have neither an A833 nor a loose bell housing to verify all of these measurements. I appreciate the help everyone has given in getting them, but use with a huge amount of salt please. If anyone does have the parts to verify these dimensions, please do and then chime in.

On a roll I guess. This is one way to reduce the cost a bit. Drops on elbow and reduced tubing. That stuff is about $1/ft, so not much savings really. On all of these, there are details for the throttle I haven't added yet.

Take a look at Rockauto, this seems to be it...https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1947,truck,3.9l+237cid+l6,1486601,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

I had the flanges only quoted. For a single manifold it's about $36 for the center and $25 each for the side flanges. That drops to $20(ish) each if I order 10 parts. If I ordered enough to build 10 manifolds, the price for the sides doesn't go down, so about $60 for a set of flanges. The only issue is the company only works up to .500 thick, and the flanges should be .5625 (9/16). If I build them, I would machine a step in the flange washer to make up the difference, or maybe just face my manifold. It's cast iron, so I don't think taking .0625 out would hurt it. Now, should I just order a set for myself is the real question. Wasn't planning on manufacturing intakes, but who knows, I might know someone who wants a set of 6061-T6 flanges.

Once you have the block side flanges, you can do quite a bit. My other passion is Harley's, and I do like the CV40 carb. It's designed to work on an engine that shakes, so living on a flathead would be easy. The carb has a rubber tube that mounts it to the stock intakes, but people like myself commonly adapt them to our older engines, like my shovelhead. You epoxy a flange to the intake side of the carb, and that let's you bolt it to the two bolt flange on older intake manifolds. Hmmmm, what could be better or cheaper to make than a straight tube manifold and the best fuel distribution for our motors is three carbs. Not finished, but food for thought, but this is easy to make, carbs are very inexpensive, have huge jet and needle choices. Flange adapters are less than $20. This is done with 1.5" 6061-T6 pipe. It's schedule 40, so nice wall thickness to support everything. 1.66" OD, 1.38" ID. The flange adapters are O-ring also CV40's have integrated return springs and manual "chokes". Of course with this same design you could use an SS carb also, like a Super E.

Found this link on the AAC website, tried it and it's working. https://www.scarebird.net/

One more shot. I think this is the basic design. I'm going to look at some reinforcement flanges, but I have to get the weight of the carbs and do FEA on it. I'll do that Monday when I'm not logging in remotely. I put the carbs at 2.5Deg. Edit: I wouldn't be cheap to make. Even with getting welding for free, I figure something north of $300 for materials. As much as $400 exactly like this, single part. I know I can shave it a bit with some careful thought about the design. LOL, the Offy cost as much as the material for this, and it's not completely ready to build yet. Of course that's what I paid...$335. Now when I just checked the same source is $541. I guess mine would be a deal.

Here it is using 1.25 Sch 40 pipe. That is 1.66 OD and 1.38 ID. Plenty of wall thickness IMHO.

I took the Offy in to work Friday so I could get some dimensions. One thing I noticed was the OD of the tubes that connect to the block facing flanges. At about 1.7" they were quite a bit smaller than the tube elbows I'd found, and put in my model. I had to find something else, so I found some 1.66" OD with the correct (for the flange) ID of 1.25". I replaced them in the model. I still have the 2" OD log, but I'm thinking I can change that to 1.75". Maybe something else, I need to look at what materials are avail. Might just keep it, but the .25 wall makes it kind of heavier than it needs to be. Here is what it looks like today. BTW, I was able to model the block facing flanges accurately after measuring everything at work.

Fuel, brake, hydraulic. I wasn't going to make a guess

You might start by telling us what you are asking about.

There are quite a few drawbacks to the Offy design. It's probably better than a stock intake. I everything Tim Kingsbury has written about intakes for our engines. I've also studied the AoK design as much as I can from all the pictures available. I can see where it is an improvement over the Offy, and I understand the advantages of the multi-carb setup for fuel distribution. That isn't just a performance thing. I don't like the idea of using steel for the intake. I'm not arguing with anyone who chose that path, and I've seen "M by M" stuff, and it's price. Not something I'd go for, but you certainly can. I'm sure the manufacturing is quite good. I just don't like using steel for intake manifolds, and for me it's only the cost of materials. The log, is partly for strength and of course for the balancing of all the ports. I am currently using the 2in pipe because it makes welding the elbows and the carb flanges not yet in the design to it easier. Triple carbs IS a better design, but the cost goes up also. Just a trade-off I made. I know Tim and George Asche both like and use the B&B carbs. I respect their experience over internet chatter. I chose Carter WA-1 carbs, partly because I was able to buy two identical carbs with manual chokes, but also because I like vacuum controlled metering rods. I have an Offy, but I'm going to sell it.

Got my new parts in today. MUCH better design, if I do say so myself

Great idea. I'll check.

Started over...didn't like the tubing walls. These have .145 thickness.

The first pattern. From this I'll get the flange design where it meets the block.

I have the transmission side. What I don't have is the bell side without pulling my transmission.

That's a great solution. Not everyone can do it though, so I'm going to finish and then publish here the drawings for the adapter plate. Not trying to make anything off it, just want one for me, and once it's drafted...why not share? Like all my projects, this will move at the speed of a married man.

To answer the lingering question, yes, if I could buy one, I would simply buy the AoK intake. I'm not trying to steal anything from Tim and George. They just don't have them to sell anymore. This would cost a lot more than $650 if I had t pay for the work, but I don't

Well, I am of course going to use them on my 230 engine, but Langdon (now sold via 12bolt.com) doesn't sell the flanges. I went looking for flanges, but couldn't find an exact fit. The best measurements I get are these use a 3.2" space flange for 5/16-14 bolts. Seems all the 2" flanges I could find all have 3.25" spacing, and it's for 3/8 bolts. I figured the extra dia would make up the spacing, and it does, but the flanges were pathetic in my opinion, with very little material compressing the gasket...if you can find one that fits. A common theme you might have noticed, is that I can and will design my own solutions, when I can't get what I want. So, I did. Here is a picture of why I did this. Now these flanges were only about $4.50 each and shipping was reasonable...but. IMHO, I can do better...so I did. I designed a flange that exactly(ish) matches the outline of the manifold flange, and it 2" ID. The holes are spaced exactly with a lose clearance fit for 5/16-14 bolts. I did a 3/8" flange thickness also. They were about $38 shipped to my door (2 each). My intent is the use a grinder to size and cleanup the manifolds so I have a 1/2 depth at 2". They measure around 1.9" right now. I'm going to break the edge all around the perimeter a bit also. The reason is, I'm going to use donut gaskets. I'll weld pipe so it sticks through the flanges and goes into the 1/2 deep pocket. I'll put the donut around the pipe, and when I tighten the bolts, it will begin to extrude/deform the donut gasket into the manifold. We do this exact thing on Harley shovelheads to eliminate gasket failures. I haven't changed a gasket on my 79 FLH is oh, maybe 15 years. The new flanges ship on Monday, so once I get them I can bolt them in place and use them as a template to scribe a line on the manifolds. What could be more fun?

Since I can't buy one, and the Offy design is inferior, I've decided to do a clone of the AoK type dual carb intake for the 23 inch block. I have the Offy, but the design is kind of crappy. The passageways are squat, not the best shape or finish and the transitions, well they suck too. I'm trying to get some cad drawings of the engines, but I'm not waiting for that. I took my Offy and screwed it down over some wet cardboard on my work bench. I'm just trying to get the flange outlines as well as the exact(ish) hole placements. With that I can start to model my design. Once I have a nice impression, I did BTW outline the flanges with a pencil, I can draw a grid over the whole thing and start transferring coordinates to the 2D drawing. If you aren't familiar with 3D modeling, at least in Solidworks, you start with a 2D and then extrude the thickness. That's how I'll get the flanges and their locations. This is a long term project, so I will come back as I make progress and update the thread. I'm going to use some heavy wall 2" OD aluminum pipe for the majority of the intake and transfer plenum, then I'll use the 2" OD cast aluminum elbows to go from the tube, to each intake port. I could just cut up the Offy to use it's flanges, they would work fine, but I paid $350 for the intake and they are selling for $500 today. Might as well sell it.