lostviking

Yes, that's the one where I swapped the rear. Nothing is ever completely done...so there were other posts, as well as completely other things. I can't keep my hands from doing "things" sometimes.

Not too hard at all. There are several threads, including mine on my 46 showing the process.

The edge of the wheel opening still has a bend in it. I think I know how to support the fender to pull that out. Next time around though. And one overall of the progress. I guess it's pretty good considering where I started.

It's been humid in San Diego for some time now. This is the time of year that humidity is 85% or higher most of the time. Any meaningful painting is out of the question. That said, I got a bit more work done today. Just sanding and primer to show me the rough spots. I used my RO sander with some 80 and 320 to both blend the edges of old paint and rough up the surface of it...plus sand on the primer I've already got down. I did miss a couple spots, but it's not the final primer anyway. Here I missed the edge, so I'll do that part by hand. Here I didn't even try to get the crack in the paint between the ridges. I'll get that next go around also. Here is where a lot of damage was. I had to weld the whole bottom lip (which you can't see) all the way around to the left. It got ripped loose. I will need to lay on a micro layer to filler to smooth this and block sand it.

Sorry for the delay. No, there isn't supposed to be one either. I goes from the regulator through the ameter to everything else...via the light switch. Lights do not go through the ign switch, so you should see draw with just the lights on. The current comes from Batt (-) through the ameter to the light switch (makes a stop at the starter first), N0 10 Red wire, then No 12 Brown wire to the light switch.

Mine shows a draw when I turn on the lights, 1946.

Completely agree in this case. I am just a creature of habit, and that's how I've always installed washers...and why I make that choice.

Not to just be contrary, but I always put the rounded side towards the head of the bolt. The bolt has less surface to be making contact. The flat thing you are putting the washer against has the larger area. That is just my thinking, I've not read anything specific either way.

Unless it's a show truck, I would seriously consider going to the PowerWagon website and getting the PCV upgrade the military put in.

Hi everyone, haven't said anything in a month and haven't really done much either. I've got all of the welding on the front fender done, including the inside where is attaches to running board. It's probably ready for bondo, but I might hit it a bit more with the hammers. What I've been doing is working on a new front fender for my 1979 FLH. I wanted to practice painting something small, that is easy to redo when I mess something up. So far I've got three contrasting layers of primer on it, red oxide on the bottom. I like to put red oxide there because you can see it easily when you are wet sanding and know to stop. I just finished wet sanding it, but there were a few spots on the fender mounts where the metal was damaged in manufacturing. To fix that I got out my Dremel and smallest sanding drums. After I got it flat, or more correctly a bit lower than flat, I hit it again with some heavy coats of primer. The rivets that hold the mounts to the fender are hard to sand around, and you usually hit metal on them. I sprayed that area again also. Most of the fender is the top color of primer, but baby butt smooth. Maybe 1/3 shows the second color, and only edges and the rivet show any red oxide. It's close to time for color. That is what it was all about also. I've had the fender maybe 10 years. Once I can paint the fender without errors, I'll feel like going for the truck.

It appears that the 3/8-27 is used on gas burner valves. Here is a link that leads me to believe that: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/all-points-26-2937-3-8-27-x-3-8-cct-female-coupling/AP262937.html

In the 46 trucks, there is a 30A fuse on the rear of the light switch. Everything is pretty much fed through leads coming from this switch, so it protects (the fuse) everything. BUT, when it goes, so does everything. If you are not building a points show truck, I would add a fuse box, and run every lead coming from where ever the central point of feed for your truck, in my case the light switch, through an appropriate sized fuse for that circuit. So, if you lose anything but the ignition, you can still get home, or to somewhere safe. LV

If you look at the picture of my fender patch, you can see a small area that still needed metal. Looking at the other fender, there is a curved gap up there too, it's not fully filled. I cut a sliver of metal today and welded it in. I'm getting better at controlling my trigger finger so I didn't burn through. I seem to be able to tap the trigger long enough to get a weld, and short enough to get the single spot I need. I then used a hammer and dolly on it, plus some Dremel sanding roll to get it looking pretty good. I used a carbide round tool in the Dremel to for the "bend relief" cut at the corner. I think it will pass. I also did some hammer and dolly work on the last of the raised area's where it had bent. A pro with a planishing hammer would do a better job. I don't have one, and well... It won't take but a thin coat of Bondo to get it ready for paint. Next step, remove the paint from most of it and blend it 4-6 inches. Then I put the bondo on and if it isn't being bent into shape right now....I can paint it. I have a front fender for my FLH that needed to be painted, so I cleaned and primered it yesterday. I'll use my paint gun to do it first. If I blow it, that's easy to redo. Once I can do a good job on it, the truck fenders get theirs. Have a great Sunday everyone.

May 12th the wife and I left for a bit over two weeks of vacation. Got home feeling a bit under the weather, but we are both fine now. Haven't done anything to the truck since my last post, but it's time for me to pull the fender back off the truck and finish welding the inside of the patch I put on it. There is also a small piece I still need to form and weld in. Before I do that, and yes my mind jumps around...I will do the final beating on the damaged spots to get them to where a thin bondo coat is all I need. That's the plan for now. Then I have to decide if I can really get the running board in good enough shape or not. My buddy Joel thinks I'm nit picking the quality of the work, but that's just me. Hope everyone is enjoying their trucks this first weekend of summer.

This is my welder...140A/120VAC. I don't have a gas bottle, so I'm flux core welding. The extension cord is a 20A cord and only 10Ft long.

Crawled a little closer to the finish line today. I needed a piece of metal to patch the area towards the lower rear, where it meets the running board. I had an old fender from my FLH...hehe. Cut and shaped it, put it into place and started stitching it. Still having a bit of trouble not making holes, but I filled them. I still need to put a small filler at the top, but it came out OK I guess.

Beat on it a bit more. Decided to see how everything looked together again. I know it's a long way to go still, but it was nice to see the parts bolted together again. I haven't put the front running board bracket in yet, and I had to bend the rear one down some more, but I can see light on the horizon now. I might not have to replace the running board after all.

Took the day off today, so I decided to get part of the running board in good enough shape to get the fender done. I ended up using a jack and the truck at first...then a hand sledge, C-clamps and pieces of wood. I am forever amazed at how metal likes to return to it former shape. This isn't done, far from it, but hey...amateur here. You can see that fold line I was talking about on the rear fender pretty well here. That's where the wheel made it's exit...right under the running board.

Ain't we all.

If they don't have the exact part, order them from McMaster-Carr. I do engineering work, so I order things from them all the time at work. I setup a personal account, they usually ship the day you order. Here in San Diego, where I'm guessing they have a warehouse, standard shipping is often the very next day. I would think it will be pretty quick no matter where you are, just not next day.

If you look closely at the side view, just in front of the lower right body lines in the fender...you can see a fold line going forward. That lower section was folded under. The read lower edge was ripped loose and I had to weld it back on, same with the area up near the cardboard. I'm no pro, but I've got time and it seems to be getting better, not worse.

I have a selection of mixing cups, but a reminder is never a bad thing. I put the fender onto the truck today, after covering the repaired area of the cab. No need to scratch it up...again I need to either get the new running board, or cut off and fix enough of the old one to get the rear of the fender attached. Otherwise it's just not in the correct position. I'm doing this so I can do the final (hopefully) shaping of the metal on the truck. For one, it holds onto it for me, and for two I can see how it's lining up. I'll have to bolt the front running board mount back on to do that, so some grade 8 bolts are needed. This is where I'm at. All the places where the paint is removed were mangled. It is looking "not too bad" right now, but I guess you had to be there.

In another thread I was asking people where to find urethane single stage paint that I can buy in California. Found it. https://paintforcars.com. Bought a kit from them that has a gallon of paint, the hardener and reducer for said paint and even a few stir sticks and filters. I did have to pay $40 for shipping, but the paint kit was only $118, for a gallon of urethane single stage. The color is a darker blue than I purchased when I bought the enamel paint, so maybe it with be a closer match...I've got enough to paint the rest of the truck though, I think We'll see how many times I have to spray it. I have a front fender for my 79 shovelhead I need to paint. I'm going to use the enamel paint on it and get some practice.

I originally was going to use an enamel paint, but after hearing from other members, I am now going to be using urethane paint instead. It is harder and lasts longer. What I purchased is urethane, not enamel. I wasn't having any trouble finding enamel paints. Not to slight you putting new information on here.

I found this place recommended over on HAMB. https://paintforcars.com I bought a paint kit, paint, reducer, hardener and a few odd bits. Not a terrible price, considering I have to pay $40 for shipping. Would have been nice to get it from Amazon and save that money...in case anyone else is looking for a source.