Sam Buchanan

Probably useless to try ordering them in the store, I ordered online. However, you are working with a different engine than in my car so your experience may be different from mine. I'm probably running down a rabbit trail...but is this what you need? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=125086&cc=1487711&jsn=490 https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/felpro-intake-exhaust-manifold-gasket-set-ms-8009-b/19780554-P?searchTerm=ms8009b

I ordered a set of Felpro intake and exhaust manifold gaskets from Advance Auto Parts. They are also available from Rock Auto and the usual old Mopar sources.

This article in the Technical section of the forum is recommended reading and will answer your question along with providing insight into how these old brakes work: http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/ If you don't thoroughly understand how the brakes function and are adjusted, you may end up with brakes that are ineffective at best and downright dangerous at worst.

I've found puppy training pads to be a nice addition to the shop when working with old vehicles that aren't completely housebroken: They can be cut up into smaller pieces to catch drips and dribbles when an oil filter is changed. I keep one under the P15's transmission that insists on marking its territory in spite of my training efforts.... Also works for me if I'm in the middle of a repair job I just can't turn loose of !!?!! ?

Found the Napa Gold 1051 on Napaonline, the longer version is 1050. However, they are twice the price as the WIX filters on Rock Auto. But there is shipping so the price difference may be moot if the Napa filters are available locally.

Likewise! The hours reading the forum archives has been a tremendous resource for my project.

Steve, thank you for the read and kind comments. I'm reminded of the old adage...."Paralysis by Analysis"........ The Wix filter mount I have appears to be well machined and no operational issues have popped up. If the casting was defective it would be apparent when test fitting a filter on the bench. It really is a simple component, not much to go wrong. The nipple threads are smooth on the adapter I have and the gasket engages evenly. If oil spillage is a concern, just place a plastic bag around the filter when you initially unscrew it, any excess oil will drain into the bag instead of on the starter that has 70+ years of crud on it....... The original canister filter is certainly a proven design, however, I don't see any operational downsides to the Wix filter installation.........probably best to find something else to worry about.

Not very, I'm near Huntsville, AL.

Excellent data point....thanks!

In a previous thread the discussion was centered around whether or not a bypass filter is needed and the best oil for our mature engines. Based on that discussion and pondering this topic for a few days after pulling the oil pan I decided to install a spin-on filter on my non-filtered engine. I've seen a couple of photos on the forum of filter installations but decided to offer a more complete tutorial for the benefit of owners who may want to explore a filter installation. I chose a mount and filter from Wix because they offer a mount and selection of filters that are specifically for bypass operation. Bypass filters are constructed differently from full-flow filters and provide a finer degree of filtration than conventional filters. I sourced the mount and filter from Rock Auto who have not only the filter I use but also the same filter in three additional lengths. I selected the next to shortest due to the confined space around the engine. Here is the mount, part number WIX 24755: Note the arrows indicating the proper direction of flow. This mount is only for bypass installations and has a small 5/8" nipple instead of the more common 3/4" seen on full-flow installations. It also has 1/8" NPT threads that allow 3/16" steel brake lines to be attached with only one 90* adapter. The filter is WIX 51051: The other Wix bypass filters that fit this mount are 51050, 51320, and 51704. A bracket must be fabricated to attach the mount to the engine block. I used 1/8" steel and drilled it for the mount and two studs on the engine head: The two fittings on the engine accept 3/16" brake lines with no modification. I found 12" lines to be ideal for this installation. Accessing the fittings and getting the threads straight deep in the engine compartment is kinda tedious....just consider it a character-building experience. Permatex #2 (non-hardening) gasket sealer was used on the brass fitting where they screwed in the filter mount. I've seen teflon tape used in situations like this but that is risky in oil systems unless you really know what you are doing. A small sliver of tape that breaks loose can create havoc if it plugs an oil passage. A couple of thick washers are behind the bracket to provide clearance for the heads of the bolts securing the filter mount. The threads in the cylinder head are common 3/8" and the nuts on the studs are 3/8" fine thread. One of the studs backed out so I replaced it with a bolt. Prior to installing the filter I filled it with oil. This photo shows the difference between a bypass filter and full-flow---notice the tiny holes through which oil flows in/out of the filter. Filling the filter was very tedious....if I had to do this very often I would rig up some sort of syringe to push oil into the filter instead of spending 1/2 hour adding oil a fraction of an ounce at a time. The filter accepted a cupful of oil before it was satisfied. The finished installation complete with a note on the mileage and date of filter change. The oil lines need to be formed for clearance so the filter can be easily changed. Yes, this is not for those who want a period-correct engine bay, but I like having a modern filter which can be easily sourced through common channels. If my engine is happy....I'm happy.

The yard too must have patina my friend....

Wow....post a cool photo of somebody's lawn decor....and watch the negative comments fly......tough crowd. ? I suspect the guy just enjoys seeing the old stuff every time he pulls into the lot, the place was overrun with antique archaeology. I'm going to give the feller the benefit of the doubt, hope he enjoys his treasures for as long as he wants.

Oh no....have enough projects. I assume this one was either not for sale or the asking price unrealistic......there is a reason those vehicles have taken root.

Found today.....somewhere in east Tennessee:

Already had about 300 miles with 10W-30 before pulling the pan......hadn't used any oil during that time.....but it did leak some. ?

Photo deleted.

The path to a nice paint job involves water, sandpaper and knowing how to use a good buffer.

Hey....if it was copied from the net then it has to be true....right? ?

Follow-up; problem solved with new sender. Note; As of this writing, the price shown in the Kanter catalog is for the one-wire sender, the two-wire is considerably more ($97). However, Kanter send a replacement sender for the one-wire version that was sent in error.

Here are the guide pins that I found very useful for installing the pan. They are made from 5/16" bolts and one on each side of the pan was enough to get all the holes aligned so the bolts could be started. Slip the pan over the pins, then hold the pan up with one hand while starting a couple of bolts. Of course, a jack could be used to hold the pan in place.....but that would be too practical....

Rear lower crank seal (rope) and oil pan gasket replaced. Man....this would be so much easier if the car was on a lift......I'm getting (gotten!) too old to be wallowing around under an old car on jack stands with oil dripping in my face. I'l be able to raise my arms above my shoulders in a couple of weeks..... ? Many thanks to the forum member who suggested making guide pins to assist with reinstalling the pan, that really helped align the pan until a few bolts were in place. Very messy job but glad I now know what was in the bottom end, in my case, very little, am blessed with a clean engine. I just hope my gasket/seals don't leak, don't want a redo! Five quarts of Walmart's 10W-30 detergent oil is now in the sump---Wix oil filter mount and bypass filter is on the way from Rock Auto.

Yes, you have some aviation background. We appreciate your service...enjoy retirement.....and your P15!

Update; Below is the oil pan from the P15, very clean with only a thin layer of sludge in the very bottom of the pan. The bottom end of the engine is likewise clean and appears much as I would expect from an engine that has been running modern oil. I'll be refilling with multigrade detergent oil....and probably a bypass filter.

Joe, are you in aviation? One of your posts in another thread looks like that may be the case. I've been building aircraft for nearly thirty years, here are a couple: The RV-6 The Fokker D.VII My brother in Florence is also a pilot and flies a Cessna. Just to keep this P15 related, I found the broken-off tip of the dipstick in the oil pan, no telling how long it had been there. It has now been rejoined with the surviving portion of the stick.

Done. Do the side gaskets get trimmed up against the end gaskets? There're still a little long now overlapping the excess end gaskets.