HotRodTractor

Yes I see a side view. Do you have a front view?

Do you have any pictures of the front of that motor? I don't believe I have ever seen a setup quite like that.

I know I wish I had kept all the 1 ton wheels I had years ago. I had no idea that they were that hard to come buy when I was stripping those trucks down for parts - I left the wheels on the trucks as it made it easier to load the carcasses up for the scrap yard. I was young and dumb.

When you do get the correct cap - make sure to toss some dielectric grease in those holes to help keep that corrosion from happening again. I went through almost the exact same scenario with an OT tractor around Labor Day. I fought with that thing.... it would start, but hard and miss something terrible... which really sucks when its only 2 cylidners! Anyway.... I thought I had it, took off down the road and a couple of miles later it was back missing. I left it run along side the road while I got off to troubleshoot it..... I no more and got close to that distributor cap and I got hit with a nice blue arc. Everything was new except the cap and rotor (didn't have them in the shop when I thought I had a spare set). That cap was extra junk..... and the Pertronix setup with the 45Kv coil was doing its job as best as it could. lol

I'm interested in the responses here as I am sure I will run into a similar problem with a project of mine. First thought - is the engine mounted as low as you can get it? There are front and rear sump oil pans available if that would help get things lower.

My first Mopar experience would have to be memories of an early 80s extended cab pickup we used around the farm. It was 2 tone brown and tan. I specifically remember playing in the bed of the truck sitting in a hayfield/pasture area just south of the dairy barn and I wasn't very old. After that came a couple of red regular cabs - the only way I could tell them apart when I was a kid was one was an auto, and one was a manual. By the time the 90s rolled around the farm was using Fords..... so it was short lived. If I had to guess we were all Fords by the time I was 10. By the time I was 14..... I remedied that by starting to drag home Pilothouse pickups..... by the time I was 16 I had a pretty solid driver. There are times I wish I had never sold that truck. Fast foward and my latest Mopar experience was under the hood the the D.C P15 this afternoon. I was going to clean and gap the plugs as I fouled them out yesterday somehow.... don't know any more than that. I couldn't located my spark plug cleaner to make the job easy (been cleaning and reorganizing the shop, so everything is a mess).... so I figure I would just pop in a new set of Autolite 306s... I only had 4 on the shelf as they got some 386s mixed into the pile (for my Deeres). Such is my life. Minor setbacks. lol

Granted I can't see that entire pickup..... but I also can't imagine there is so much wrong that it couldn't be repaired...... what you can see in that picture looks pretty decent.

No - actually I am not. If I go clean out the old milk house there is probably still rubber laying in there under all the dirt and crap. Why has this devolved into this nonsense that has absolutely nothing to do with transmissions at all any more? I had no issues entertaining you a little bit when the questions had some technical content - but this nonsense about doing "burnouts" on smooth concrete is just that. If your self described "tired 228" could do a burnout - then why would it even be in question if a good condition 251 couldn't? Of course the obvious answer to that question is wish to bait someone into some sort of online confrontation. Not phased. Don't care. I think we've wrecked this thread enough. I wish the best of luck to the OP in figuring out his dilemmas with his A833 Pilothouse install. In the spirit of burnouts that don't prove anything, here is my diesel on 37s doing a baby burnout: Video Here

I didn't want to embarrass you... but I used to do better burnouts on smooth concrete like that.... with my pedal tractor when I was still wet behind the ears.

I've never mashed the pedal and seen how high she would spin, but jaunts about 4000 RPMs are pretty common.

Full disclosure - because I wanted to confirm before I posted - I also have an Edgy cam with 260 duration and 0.410" lift. I don't have any other information on it other than that.

#groovyman

Does the "whistle" noise come and go as you push in the clutch at idle while sitting still? Does the transmission need to be in gear for it to happen? So its a high pitched "screeching" sound? Maybe you can get some video of the noises and post it up.

So - you have a "whistle" at idle while at traffic lights, but not when parked? Could it be something with your clutch? (Just thinking out loud with minimal information - that might be one thing different between parked and at a traffic light at idle) Chugging noise? Does it "feel" like anything is wrong? Like its missing or anything? Hard to tell without more information or context. There is plenty of videos of these engines running on youtube - does it sound drastically different than any of those?

3.78 First gear, 0.72 OD, 3.54 rear end (Also nearly identical gearing to my world class V6 Camaro box) No trouble accelerating over 60mph in 5th gear. 1st to 2nd isn't terrible, if I was building a truck and was actually going to use it as a truck at all, I would actually want a lower first gear or different gears out back - even if that means I start in second most of the time. You're probably close on weight for mine - and I depending on the model of 32 Chrysler - it might not be that much different.

Discussions of power, weight, and reliability of potential transmissions swap candidates are perfectly applicable to this board. All three qualities and more should be discussed when talking about a particular transmission swap as it lends itself to suitability of its potential new home.

You won't have that problem with the low HP these engines produce even when turned up. I don't have concrete numbers, but I would expect the 5/16 line to be good up to about 250hp give or take. If I was shooting for over 200hp - I would start thinking of going up to 3/8. I'm sure someone else probably has a different rule of thumb. *This HP number is based on a low pressure carb setup - if you go to a higher pressure carb setup or the really high pressures of EFI - then that HP number can go way up.

That thing is cool! What part of the world are you in? That would help the forum point you towards a parts supplier. You definitely have a flathead mopar of some variety. Generally they lump into 2 main categories based on the length of the head. 23" and 25" - measuring that will help you get to the right parts. Also there is a pad on the left side of the block at the top below the head towards the front of the engine - it will have a number stamped on it of some variety - that will likely help as well.

I know this isn't a solution that everyone can use - but its good info for those that can. I have strapped many fuel tanks to the rear tractor wheel - loaded up the tank with a couple of handfuls of old bolts and nuts - and sealed up all the openings. After raking a field of hay or something similar - I have a pretty clean interior on my fuel tank (most of the time - sometimes I have to rotate the tank some to get a different area). After its been cleaned - I have had good luck with US Gas Tank Sealer - its by the same people that make POR15. Follow the directions and make sure to do the zinc etch and you'll have a good long lasting tank.

Sadly not all of us have painless options such as that.

And thats only if there is a title....

So how rough is it? Any more pictures?

That thing is serious. Looks like 1-1/2T chassis with those fender flares. Keep in mind - anything wrong or missing from that body - you'll have to make or have fabricated. Engine parts for it are plentiful. Grill bars can be spendy (can't see them well in the photo). Just guessing on price $1500-$4000. Too many variables up to and including someone wanting to buy it. Its a rare bird that is for sure.

Just for reference - my P15 does about 2050 rpms at 65mph in overdrive using a T5 transmission and 3.55 gear out back. The car easily does 80mph. Granted its a 251ci engine with dual carbs, dual exhaust, cam, dual point distributor, etc.... so its got a few ponies over a stock. Don installed this transmission and rear axle - but I have a similar T5 and even newer rear axle with disc brakes for my Pilothouse that I picked up for $100 each.

If you saw them arc through the wires onto the engine anywhere - then it doesn't matter if you installed them this morning - they are no good.