Kahunah

I have the 100 amp GM alternator in my '41. When I rewired the car I put fusible links on both ends of the charging/load circuit. I also bridged the terminals of the ammeter with a fusible link. The gauge still works though, I could be wrong, in theory only showing half the actual current flow. I have peace of mind knowing the circuit is absolutely protected.

If you don't have the windshield, just trace the opening onto a piece of cardboard. Bring the pattern and the gasket to a glass shop that can cut flat laminated. They will be able to make the necessary adjustments to the pattern to allow for the gasket. (I ran a glass shop for years.)

When I went through the wiring, my ammeter backing plate did have some rust and evidence of arcing. Yours may be okay, just give it a thorough look.

Just some preventative maintenance, you should clean up the ammeter backing plate. Rust jacking can short the posts to the gauge backing plate.

I simply bought one 22" blade. I took the original blades apart. You just have to carefully bend one set of tabs in order to slide the insert out. I reused the metal supports from the original blades and cut the new blade to fit. Slide it all back together, carefully bend the prongs closed and you have two new blades super cheap.

I don't know if '54 is the same, but on my '41 the fuse is right on the headlight switch.

If connected this way, won't the pilot light stay lit? I did this once on a Desoto and the pilot light stayed lit with the signal switch in the neutral position. It seemed the load of the light was not great enough to cause the element to heat up. It did flash when either signal was activated. Wasn't a big deal though.

For the gas tank, if it's the same as '41 the nuts for the straps are through the trunk floor.

I used the Rusty Hope disc conversion and the ECI master cylinder kit on my '41 P12. I don't have a booster on mine, and honestly I really don't think one is needed. The pedal feel is firm but not overly hard. You don't have to stand on it to get a good braking response. I don't think there is enough room to fit a booster without major frame modifications and I did not want to mount the booster and master on the firewall.

That is really good to hear. I have done the front disc swap, 12v conversion and new wiring harness throughout. I have a LA360 that I had considered swapping in but, the more I drive it with the flat 6, the more I love it. I really think the OD and rear swap will be the cat's meow for me.

I'm very interested in this swap. I have the A833OD and an 8.25 with 3.55 gears from a Cherokee on the garage floor just itching to see the road. I really want to keep the flatty but want the OD to cruise.

I used Rusty Hope's brackets for the disc conversion. All of the other parts required are off the shelf and he sends a detailed list with part numbers. IIRC, I spent right at $500 for the conversion. The master cylinder is off the shelf and I bought the pedal conversion kit from ECI. It works perfectly.

Wonder how many bad words were said when he tripped over the exhaust pipe!

The proper sealant to use between the gasket and pinchweld is a bedding compound. 3M #08509 is the one I used when I did glasswork for a living.

On my '41 P12 I used Rusty Hope's disc brake kit and the master cylinder kit from ECI. I also installed new shocks. I'm very happy with the results. All wearable parts are easily replaced with off the shelf items.