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About Kahunah

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  • Gender
  • My Project Cars
    1941 P12 2 dr sedan

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  • Biography
    My wife says I have a problem....
  • Occupation


  • Location
    King George, Virginia
  • Interests
    Classic Cars, High Performance Cars

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  1. I used the Rusty Hope kit on my '41 for the front disc set up. . I know some have had issues with the ECI master cylinder kit but my experience was straight forward and quite easy. The brakes work perfectly.
  2. Yep....I had them installed above the toe board facing up and they never worked right. I saw a diagram in the assembly manual with them facing down below the toe board. They only seal when the pedals are up....crazy!
  3. I just replaced the gasket on my '41. Loosen the screws accessible through the vent. On the inside is a nut and bolt that attaches the vent to the handle. The rod is serrated for adjustment. The vent is now removed from outside. It was not hard at all. I took it apart because I had some surface rust I wanted to treat before it became a problem.
  4. This is the location and bolt I used. The picture is from under the car looking up towards the m/c rod. You can see the spring and bracket above the frame. Hope this helps!
  5. I'll get a picture of it as soon as I can. Here is a pic of the car.
  6. For every 1lb of pressure the boiling point of water is raised @3 degrees (F). The thermostats are 160* and the system runs at about 3lbs. The boiling point is thus @221*. (The temp gauge on my 41 pegs at 220*) Using a higher pressure cap would raise the temperature of boil over but may lead to other problems, such as leaking welsh plugs or water pump shaft. Modern vehicles require a higher pressure system because the higher operating temps are necessary for the emission systems. As long as your cooling system is in proper working order there really is no reason to use a higher pressure cap even with a new radiator.
  7. On my 41 P12 I moved the bracket that holds the spring. Just towards the front of the vehicle on the frame is a rivet that goes through the cross brace. I drilled out the rivet and bolted the bracket there. Works perfectly and clears everything.
  8. I believe the correct measurement would be a 3.048 meter pole.....
  9. I'm pretty sure on my 41 the float was towards the left side of the car but its been awhile. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm mistaken. The two wires at the sender are a path to ground. There is varying resistance on each circuit with the position of the float arm. That in turn actually heats metal strips in the gauge that moves the needle.
  10. Just installed the ECI kit on my 41 P12. It is an absolutely well engineered kit! I used Rustyhope's front disc kit. The stock 15" wheels work fine.
  11. Just bought a set of 5752 from RockAuto. They fit perfectly on my 41 P12. Monroe has a rebate going for when you buy 4 qualified products. I replaced the rear as well and qualified for a $50 rebate.
  12. 1 and 2 go the the sending unit. The runtz goes between the ignition switch and the terminal marked ign. There have been comments that the gauge will function properly on 12v. The gauge actually works by resistance heating of the metallic strips behind the gauge. The service manual even tells how to adjust the gauge.
  13. Restore them yourself! I did mine and it was an enjoyable experience.
  14. I have a spare one as well. It will be Monday evening before I can get to it, If Junkers doesn't get back to you, I will post the dimensions then. I have been kicking around the idea of modern gauges in the original housing. I would like to have a volt meter where the ammeter is ( I have a 100 amp alternator) Would you be able make custom lettering?
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