55 Fargo

Hi Bill, when you have a moment, could you please identify my engine number and what it came from and what cubic ionch it would be. The engine number is P6D1 21777 C...thanx in advance Fred You may have deciphered this number before, but cannot find the results...

Really you got it before we did Ed, got a dusting overnight, might get 2-4 inches tonight though. Can you feel our northwind yet. I guess you have to get ready for a snowstorm, doesn't Minneapolis get major snow for every Thanksgiving?

I think you may have answered your own question. Your engine is worn, most likely some valve seating issues, and general uneven and less than optimal over all compression. i cold be wrong, but you may be just dealing with a well worn engine, and it may take a ring and valve job or complete overhaul to get the desired results

Why guess???? Start the systematic process of elimination, in order, rule out any causes. let the forum know your findings and subsequent solution(s)...Good Luck

She is really clean inside, and with no oil filter is quite remarkable, no doubt it either has low usage or had a lot of oil changes. Hopefully it produce close to 200 hp when I get through with it, even 40-50 hp over 110 hp would be nice improvement.

yeah it looks like carbon deposits. I would pull this engine apart and rebuild, so it would get new valves..

Here is a pic of the top of the engine. The exhaust and intake ports are filthy. 1 piston is still shiny, .040 is stamped on the top of it.

Today, I brought in my spare 251 engine "1960" built into the garage to keep it out of the elements. It spun freely 2 but has been stuck since. I pulled the side covers off, and am very amazed at the condition and cleanliness. This leads me to believe a few things, lower miles, well maintained, frequent oil changes, and engine run to operating temps during it's lifetime. The cylinders look okay, some mild rust on a couple, pistons stamped .030 over, so rebuilt at some point.. Hope to make this my "Hotrod" flattie engine someday, and hope this engine is a a good candidate as per it's cleanliness. Have a look at these pics.

That is very interesting, don't think it would have had the wattage for what block heaters require for up here in the north require. infact I have never seen one like this before, any block heaters I have ever known are in the freeze plug hole, or in a heater hose line..

How about having your disc and pressure plate rebuilt. That is done on this side of the pond all the time... You could send it over to the USA for rebuilding, but the down time would be longer. I am sure there are lot's of outfits in the UK that can restore that clutch assembly....

On my former 47 Chrysler Coupe, I rebuilt the entire braking system, but used the drums, had those machined on a brake drum lathe. I adjusted the major adjusters to factory spec, witrh arrows pointing in the direction in the service manual. Once I bled the brakes very well, I did use DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, I had a decent pedal. The brakes at first were just so-so, after several hundred miles, I would do a minor adjustment, this I continued for another several hundred miles. Once the brakes shoes wore into the drum radius, they were awesome, I could hit those brakes and put a passenger into the dash no problem. Bob H aka Dodgeb4ya, gave me this recipe and it worked well. When brake jobs were done years ago, brake shoes were shaped on the arcing machines to have maximum contact with the drum surfaces, so instant good brakes, the other way is to wear this in, and to do periodic brake adjustments. Bob also mentioned that he owns the Ammco and/or Miller brake tool for thee Lockheed systems, but that he hardly used them. What I am getting at, is you can still have good brakes, without those tools, but you must find a method to create maximum/total contact. Some on this fourm have made brake adjusting tools, and have used those to get those shoes dialed in better. Good Luck

Duh, I wonder Don.....LOL

Duh, I wonder Don......LOL

With which engine,trans,and differential are you cruising at 80 mph? I have a 251 engine 3.23 diff, P235 75 15 tires, and do not cruise at 80 mph.

Trampsteer get rid of that 4.11 rear end, and fix your front end, and you will cruise 60-65 mph no problem, 45 mph is downright dangerous on most highways these days.. Tod, that 33 must be screamin in pain at 65mph plus, with that gearing...

110 no problem, get rid of that 4.11 rear end, and go with more highway friendly gears , or a T5 overdirve set-up. How fast do you want to go BTW, if your looking for speed and power, flatheads might not be your ticket, but smooth reliable cruising you can expect. 110 kmh that is......LOL

Hi Jeff, sounds like you got this issue beat. Can you post a pic of your custom heat shield?

Thanx for the pics DB. Here is a link to a nice flattie Hi-perf in a nice coupe. Built by George Asche.

Latest pic of "Ole Blu', can hardly wait till the rear fenders are painted and back on. Not a fantastic job, but okay for now....

Pics ??? and DB how much performance change do you notice?

Edgy may not have the market cornder on extreme Mopar Flathead Peformance, although He certainly is up there. Check out this, http://p15-d24.com/topic/36222-radical-mopar-flattie-dragster/?hl=%2Btim+%2Bkingsbury

Keenly watching this thread. What lift and duration we be talkin bout here.....

yup, looks bout right

Now would be the time to sand this baby down, and paint. Even if Paul just rolled on Navy (dark) Blue rustoleum type paint, black boards and bumpers, would look cleaned right up, and the metal with more protection to last another 60 years.

I have a 15 inch dip stick here, it also says 4 Imp quarts, which is 5 US quarts. Imperial quarts are 40 ounces, and US quarts are 32 ounces. Will look around for a longer oil stick for you, and let you know in a few days. So 4 Imperial quarts = 160 ounces plus 1 US quart for the oil filter 32 ounces totals 192 ounces of oil or 6 US quarts or 5.7 litres of engine oil.