55 Fargo

Tim is rust ever really gone,unless you shaved a fair amount of material off the substrate. Your recipe, will no doubt get a majority taken care of before primer. Your Rusty metal primer does a really good job of sealing the prepped sheet metal too, and once fully cure,can handle a lot of materials over it. Do you prefer to use fillers over bare metal, or fillers over rusty metal primer? I find if base is well prepped, the coating on 2 sides of the panel, will seal out 2 enemies, H20 and oxygen......

Perhaps the notion of a bent throttle "road" is causing a faster idle, causing a rich mixture of fuel, not sure if that is what Rich intended to say. I would think it would only cause idle RPM issues, not fuel mixture issues.....Rich were you running "lean" on your post......

Yah,I'll get right on"back to School",think the stand will be fine,if not, will not use it. It is heavy enough to hang my truck on it, am not the least be concerned,but if she is tipsy, will support the front of the engine,no big deal. Don't think I will be going to visit any of the local Tech Schools, maybe a friggin wrecking yard........LOL

This is going to be "interesting". I do not see th frame, or the front suspension( if in premium condition), as the limiting factor in this scenario. I do see the braking system on the tow vehicle, and the low HP engine as the issue. Of course the 49 will be noisier, not as creature comfortable, as the "modern" Tahoe. But front end and frame being the limiting factor, not sure about that....

Guys the stand is for hanging a 251 engine on, not the least bit concerned about it's strength. I do have a bit of concern on the length issue, but the main post, and gussets should be fairly center of gravity. I do think the attachments on the 360 degree swivel plate, need to be reversed to the back side of the plate, which is 5/8 thick steel. This would allow, the engine to hang 3 inches back, and keeping the wait more center. I would think the weight capacity of this stand is a lot higher than the Horrible Fright stands....

Here's the beefed new improved version good for about a ton or more...

You could go with "Aluminum" trailer decking, with metal or wood braces along supports to creat correct thickness and height. This is a porduct, but of course isa large order supplier. I suggest getting ahold of some commrecial trailer builders, or Fort Garry Industries in Winnipeg for prices and availability. http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/aluminum-trailer-decking_1803546478.html

Home Hardware Rust Coat enamel, custom tinted, with medium speed reducer, Evercoats DOI wet look acrylic enamel hardener mixed approx, 8-4-1, nice and shiny, and if you can lay it down right, very smooth and slick. This stuff can be cut and polished too, but shot on right with good prep will be nice and shiny, not like BC/CC or 2 k single stage urethane, but decent like the old school finishes....

1955 Fargo 108 inch chassis with engine/trans, 1955 cab, 1956 doors, 1952 box and tailgate, 1956 rear fenders, so made out of 4 different trucks, running boards were made from 3 sets, and cut and grafted to make 2 decent driver quality boards....I actually use Home Hardware Rust Coat enamel, truck is painted with it, they tinted the paint to my choice, not much of a choice, but I did it.....LOL

4mula, this what this truck looked like when i put a real beat up cab onto her chassis....

#1, this panel is not finished, so it will all be down to the metal, just started today, and need supplies. I have done a few paint jobs, over existing paint/primer, but did not just shoot on an enamel or lacquer primer, but used a 2 k high build urethane surfacer. Absolutely no old paint uneven substrate showing through, nor did it peel, the 47 was not down to bare steel 100 %, it 's paint is now 5 years old, with no issues whatsoever. The cab I did not go down to bare steel 100%, but only shot on 3-4 coats of tremclad type primer, it does not have the filling qualities of 2 k high build. But i will say this about tremclad, I shoot it on reduced at least 30%, using any autobody grade acrylic enamel reducer, I even used urethane grade reducer in a pinch. Once this stuff cures, it blocks like a dream, but film build thickness was lacking in my limited experience. To be honest, this truck was supposed to be an antique farm beater, haul wood, gravel shingles etc, but after I was forced to sell my 47, I figured I should fix her up a bit. Now having said this, I got started off on the wrong track, I was already body right off the frame, but was in a hurry, and had no plan to fix her up too much. Now I have no time to get totally involved in a complete and proper resto, so a fix up and quick paint for now. I do have it in quite decent reliable mechanical condition, the interior needs to be fixed up too, but there is not too much to the interiors of these trucks compared to a 47 Chrysler, and I did that whole interior...

Sure it's possible in your damp, moist environment. how did you store the engine? Did you periodically start or turn engine over, could be a few stuck valves. was water sitting in the spark plug holes? You may have to pull the head and side covers and get some pentrating oil or ATF or diesel in there. What was this engine like before, a good runner or rebuild candidate....keep us informed

Thanx Dave, been sandin away, plan to knock it all down, then primer, maybe 2 k urethane primer/surfacer, and paint

This is what I am dealing with, good thing this metal is "heavy"....LOL

I am not against your idea, but really, I have sanded, as well as sandblasted a few old Mopars, and did not warp any of this heavy metal. I am dealing with a lot of patina type surface rust too, do not think aircraft stripper would help in that matter. In reality, this whole box is $hit, should be dismantled, and blasted, and repaired then prepped for paint. The inside of the box, is 90% patina, scratches gouges surface rust etc. I am not going to spend a year playing with this, just not up to it, hopefully will find better box someday, can buy a new set of rear fenders and tail gate too if need be. I plan to clean up the surface, prime, and paint, that's it for now. This road I live and drive on, would wreck a nice paint job anyway. 7 years till retirement, then the proper job, this metal is 60 years old now with next to o rust through, think it can handle a lot more time yet....it is stored indoors too

Those are early 90s Ford Bronco or Explorer rims, minus the trim rings. Most people that see them like them, I am still thinking of going with old style steel rims and baby moon hub caps. Nah, gonna sand it down, not big on chemical strippers, fenders and tail gate are getting sandblasted, so the box sides and headboard are my oly chore, big enough but not bad...

Finally back on the bodywork and paint on the 55s box.Pulled rear fenders, and tail gate, welded in some extra holes that were drilled on the box, got some repairs to do too. I am stripping the box sides wit the DA sander, the fenders and tail gate will be blasted, the welding on the fenders was done a while ago. This box and fenders, and the tailgate are beat-up, it will get the deelux fast fix up. I hope to re-do all body and paint in about maybe 7 years, hope to find some better body panels to. So rough she is, wish i was a better metal worker, but she will be 1 color and prtotected....

Where is the OP in this thread????? Lots of good posts, but now getting subjective and repetitive. The OP, needs to provide more info, and state his intentions on usage and plan for hauling this camper, does he want to pull it 30 miles from home and back, or is he planning a 3000 mile trip. As mentioned, what type of insurance is he carrying...

Mission completed, bumper and hitch back on and painted. i straightened bumper up a lot too, with oxy torch, and BFH, not beautiful, but a lot better than it was.

Having the 3.23 gears, not sure again if OD would be a little tough on the old engine, I cruising at 60 mph at usually around 2400 RPM, so at 65-70 would be closer to 2800 rpm. RPM is not the main issue driving these old trucks at 65-70 mph, it's control handling and braking that concerns me more. I do believe you on the trans quieter with T5, makes sense to me. To be honest, if I could bolt up a Mopar 3spd AT, that would be a pleasure for me. Thanx Jeff, sounds like you did a lot of work, and it paid off, yes these trucks can certainly be noisier on those real windy cooler days...

Link for T4 and T5 transmissions. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/t4_t5.htm

While I certainly agree with plugging all holes, insulation, door rubber, and even window rubber will all contribute to a quieter ride. Lets face it, these old truck were never as quiet as my modern vehicles, heck there not as quiet as some of my past 1970s pickup trucks. I do not agree about insulating the underside of the hood, unless you live in the arctic somewhere, way too much heat would be kept under the hood in warm weather.

I am not complaining about rougher ride, it is a truck ride for sure. have a lot of road noise, road surface, wind, making it very noisy in the cab. I have 3.23 gears, so not a real problem with engine/fan noises. I have no intention of going to a T5 trans, what for with the 3.23 gears, might be better off with a T4 trans from an 80s S10. What I am getting at, is do not think 3.23 gears would be all that great for 5th gear, would be bogging down unless I was going down hill with a tail wind..

I would be most concerned about stopping this trailer, you will need to set up trailer brake controller, either a 6 volt unit,or perhaps dial down a 12 volt unit. Your car, will have trouble on a busy Georgia Interstate/freeway, but plenty of slower state and county roadways should be fine. I would have a Class 3 receiver hitch installed, correct wiring to accommodate trailer lights, and trailer brakes, if this trailer is under 2000 lbs, you may not require the trailer brakes, or if you have a surge brake set-up, you may not need the electric trailer brakes. Your brakes on your car, may be a red flag concern, converting to front disc would help a lot, all suspension components, and maybe even rear overload or air shocks. What is the tongue weight of this camper? You could set it all up, but just having a bumper hitch and away you go, will not cut it, for a light utility trailer, but not for your camper....good luck, I am sure others will share the opinions too

These cabs need to be well insulated, and the suspensions softened, not sure how much your OD will help, should help some....