55 Fargo

As we approach winters end here in the north, all northern USA and southern Canada areas can relate, cabin fever has set in a while back. Chris do you have any adventures planned for this spring? I still believe you and Jerry to be the most travelled Members on here with a flathead powered 47 D25, not even those guys who drive 700 miles a day can come close on your travels. So if you drive through my area, will have a few jars fo that Chokecherry and Crab Apple jelly waiting for you. Have not read about any new adventires or plans, can you let us all know when and where you may be planning your next excursion....

I am not exactly driving on slushy salty roads, and wouldn't either. I do drive on occasion a a frozen dry road, nothing at all splatters on the under side of the truck. I do not like driving too much in a lot of rain though, so like to keep her dry. I know Bamfordsgarage drives his 47 D25 all winter, it is an older unrestored car, and does not look any worse for it. He also drives the Model T in winter, and it is in really nice shape. I do not think He drives the Speedster in winter. I really admire Chris and the miles and place this car has been, a real adventurer....

Hello, I never had any issues with overheating with this engine, but with 10 W 30 oil, she runs a little thin when really good and hot outside. This engine has good oil pressure, 50-55 on the highway, and 30-35 the very lowest at idle in summer when the engine is good and hot. It does not use oil or leak much at all, even after 500 -1000 miles see very little change on the dip stick. The wires, are a decent quality accel better tan the lower end chinese crap, thats for sure. As you say, compression is not all that bad, this engine most likley had only 100-110 when frresh, with it's less than 7 to 1 compression ratio. Yesterday ran a bit of Seafoam down the carb, not much a few ounces, did not do all that much, drove her like I stole her after that for about 10 minutes, then did a compression test. I do have vacuum advance on the distribuotr, and you can see it with a timing light. This engine has really decent puick up for what it is, not rough running that way, just a bit of a rough idle, not as smooth as I would like it, but she is old and paid her dues, so maybe I need to remember this. I will be dropping the oil pan soon for inspection clean up and new gaskets. I see your In Manitoba, in the Winnipeg area? Maybe should meet up to talk old Mopar some time....

I drove it 20 miles today, heck the road was super dry, speeds up to 100 kmh. I also poured some Seafoam down the carb, didn't seem to do a whole lot, but it made me feel good. I don't understand not going for a drive on dry winter days. Go to the HAMB, a few guys in Winnipeg are driving old classic cars year round, they are of course there old car beaters, but still they are having a blast

Just ran a compression test, on warm engine the following are the results, Cyl 1 100 cyl 2 95 cyl 3100 cyl 4 85 cyl 5 90 cyl 6 100 This isi a dry reading tried a wet reading on a low cyls, no change. Now I know the source of my slightly rough idle, lower compression in cyl 4 and 5. My conclusion, older engine with wear, and slightly leaking valves...

Hi Jeff, that's a good idea, and will be trying out in early spring. I bought a pan gasket, and will be dropping it soon and cleanin/inspection etc. I have done the filter housing as well as the side cover area too. My engine oil gets black quickly after an oil change, so dropping and cleaning the pan should help.

Yes, I know, crappy gas, running Premium, but the winter blend might be part of the equation. BTW it's not -20 in the garage, it's 50f. I like to get some things done prior to spring, some guys have everything tucked away all winter, not me. I do not see why the vacuum or a valve issue would be any different in warmer weather, can you please explain? Here is a video of it running, do not think any tuning or tweaking will do anything now, firmly believe it's an exhaust valve sticking or burnt. I still have to verify this with a proper compression test.

1 other idea, going to try some "seafoam" snake oil tomorrow, see if it will help it run a little smoother....

I have 3 -251 engines, 1 in the truck, and 2 on the floor.how about a 283 SBC...hehehe Probably will drive her like this for a while, lots of power, good oil pressure, and does not burn or leak oil much. I could be wrong with my diagnosis, and possibly could be missing something, but the poof-poof in the exhaust is a dead give away, maybe do an in truck valve and ring job, and learn something.....

Okay just went outside to the shop, cap rotor points look great and new, i installed them within the last 2 years. I started the engine turned off the lights and had a look under hood, no stray current or sparks either. It then dawned on me, listening to the exhaust, a little poof-poof sounds like exhaust blowing as well as drawing. I really believe now it has a burnt or sticking valve or valves. I did the paper test at the tail pipe it failed. I have a choice, rebuild, do a valve job, or live with it for now, or find another engine.

Hi Jeff, trust me, the warm weather driving season here is hot hot hot, but short, this engine did not like 10 W 30 in summer, it would be okay now, if used a lot, or even 5 w 30. I have not replaced the dizzy cap or rotor, don't think it is the problem, as she runs really well, jut a bit of a rough idle. I wonder if the carb is having issues, in the idle circuit. I could possibly try the lighter oil first thing in the spring, and see what it may do loosen up the lifters, and maybe some MMO too.....thanx for your suggestions

Hi Jeff, will be doing a comp test soon. I have 15 W 40 diesel oil, as my truck is in a heated insulated garage, and does not get driven in winter as a rule. All in all, she is pretty good, I will not rule out any type of minor vacuum leaks too, you never know.....cheers

Hi Jeff, it was somewhat warmed up but not fully like a good run in summer. It runs much better in warmer weather, it is real cold, and it even seems like it more noisy in this type of weather too. She is running okay, but would like to have it better, but may not be possible without a complete rebuild.

Here is the 2nd video, installed new wires and plugs. 2 spark plug wires had a lot of resistance. I also installed new exhaust pipe to manifold and gasket. This is as good as I can get it, not sure what else to do, most likely a sign of old age. My compression tester end is too long for this engine, so can't test compression till I get another fitting or tester..

just warmed up engine and went for a ride, throttle response is very good, lot more pickup, since I advanced timing some. it accelerates well, decelerates well, just a bit of a mis at idle. I was flooring this truck to speeds up to 60 mph on my frozen gravel road, and it's 0f outside.....LOL what a red neck Everything but idle seems decent, and I haven't changed plugs or wires yet... Sidenote, I have 3.23 gears, and it is not bad off the line, still need to start out in 2nd, as 1st is still too low, shifting into 3rd powerband is fine, but need to be above 35-40 mph to really have power into 4th. It seems sluggish under 1500 RPM for powering up. I do think perhaps 3.55 would have been a better choice of gears, I do not think I ever need overdrive, and if I hop this engine up, or build my other, having an extra 30-50 hp would be great...

Thanx Jeff, I am also leaning toward a valve hanging up or not seating tightly. I have a compression tester as well as a cylinder leak down test kit...

Here is the video for this test,

The results, vacuum reading is 18 with slight oscillation. That is the best I could get. I set Carb then advanced timing to get the highest reading.It was about 15-16 without adjusting timing. I did notice a lot more take off power, after I changed timing. 18 is the highest reading, slight movement down 1, goes from 3 to 25 when you hit throttle, then returns to 18, seems normal. The minor movement, may be old plug wires or the cap rotor or sparkplugs themselves. I will replace all this week I have a good leak at the exhaust pipe to manifold gasket, not helping ,matters I suppose...

Thanx Jeff, hoping to get the vacuum gauge on and see what I have later today. It is clear sunny and -2f, and cold, shop is 45f right now.....LOL

Sounds like a good tight engine with fuel and ignition in good form. Mine idles not bad at 650-700 rpm, some roughness, I have heard other flathead 6s running really super smooth at 500 rpm...

Time again for a tune up, new plugs, new wires, as mine were used points, rotor, etc. I have never been able to get my engine idle as slow and smooth on this Fargo engine, as with the 47 Chryslers engine. I need to do a vacuum test and see whats going on. How smooth and what speed are some of your engines running at? This engine is old and unrebuilt, no doubt some leaking valves, maybe a burnt or whatever. The engine starts well and accelerates fine, just not the greatest idle...

Here is my new plan for the gas tank. I have another 1955 dodge truck gas tank, it's actually in better condition at least on the outside than my current tank. I have had this tank with drain open and protected for a few years. it was in service until the 90s. So will pull this tank, get it cleaned and coated or will try red kote. With a fresh tank, it can then become a direct R&R, without much down time....

Well finally go to this job of installing new u-joints on the Fargo. Teh driveshaft is stock, but with a more modern smaller yoke welded on for the rear ujoint. Part number for the front joint is Precsion 331 Spicer # will provide later , the rear joint is an 1980s Mopar 8 1/4 diff, so ujoint is a common Precision 317. Canadian built Dodge and fargo trucks uses Precison 331 for both front and rear for 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. This particular joint is a common Chevrolet u-joint. The Precison 369 u-joint is used on 1946-49 PDDC cars, but is not used on the trucks for 1955 or 56 I am cotemplating a clean up and paint job rpior to reinstalling this shaft. The rear ujoint was toast complete with slop and broken needle bearings.

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