55 Fargo

I agree dpollo, have a 3.23 in my 55 Fargo, 4 spd trans, take off in 2nd always, lots of torque in 2nd and 3rd, but once I am in 4th, lose the power band until after 45-50 mph. I live in flat land so not too bad, cruises nice at 60-65mph.

Why not in truck ring and valve job, good for another XXXXX miles, probably get some more pep, shave the head a bit the same time...

Those numbers are on the low side, did you do a "wet test" on any of them?

3 head gaskets, how much was this head "planed". There are others who shave the head down a lot, and do not go through head gaskets. What's your current compression ,over 130-140 psi? Some of Tim Kingsburys and George Asches engines don't eat head gaskets, and they are hi-perf compared to your engine. Wonder what is going on in your case... What is going on in your case?

I sure hope there is another "big excursion" in the plans Bob. I think the last one where there was car trouble a way up North, may have dampened there spirits for a while, hope they do something again soon. Hey this is my cabin fever reliever kinda stuff, following their adventures.........

So what's happening here? This thread started with the "topic" of engine compression and internal condition of the said engine. So what are the finding? Any compression tests done yet, I would have thought this was done a while back, but perhaps not? So when do you plan to do a thorough compression and leak down tests? Then the topic went to a T5 conversion, where did you come up with the number of $4000? So as you and others can see, you can get some more power by adding the mentioned modifications, and to ditch the fluid drive unit. The A833 conversion has been mentioned, but you seem to prefer the T5 conversion, any idea why? Look forward to your "tests" and plan Jeff, whichever way you decide to proceed...

Honing is fine for a light clean up, of a wheel cyl or even master cylinder that is not in real bad shape. Honing to clean to and make a new cross hatch pattern, no pitting and no over-sizing. I have been successful honing wheel cyls and a master cyl on my 47 Chrysler, used all new kits, and dot 5 silicone brake fluid, going on 9 years with it. I do not own the car, but the owner reports no issues with it to date. These wheel cyls and MC bores, were really on the border line of being tossed or re-sleeved. You can have your's re-sleeved with brass or SS, and they will be good for another 60 years........

There are a few vendors on the disc brake conversion, RustyHope is 1 of them, and is a good product, he is a member on this forum too. Uh springs and parts, tie rod ends, anything from Rock Auto to Oreillys, as well as the king pins, shocks etc. Steering box kits, Andy Bernbaum, as well as leaf spring hanger parts, bushing etc. These springs once they are cleaned up, and the hangers can move are not bad at all. Lot of the guys remove the 2nd smallest spring too, this will lower the truck an inch or so too. When you have time, do some searching on here for your topic desire, and you will find a lot on this topic. I say this before the "Forum Search Gestapos" jump all over you on it. Hopefully more will chime in for answers on the leaf spring replacement vendors and any place you can get steering box rebuild kits from.....good luck

Yup, read it this morning. My point was to use your thread as a focal point, and in no way is a "put down". Just a reality vision for someone who needs and expects his old Dodge truck to keep up with modern day traffic. I did not post on your thread, as there was a lot of advice already on there. The stock suspension in preemo shape with disc brakes may surprise you, mine is pretty darn good, and although I do not drive at 80 mph, at 65 mph she drives and handles no problem. I think you would also have no problem, new king pins, shocks, tie rod ends, tight steering box, and springs and shackles on good working order. In no way will be IFS, like the dakota front clip, it will be a truck, a little stiffer, but if in good condition will handle not bad. I do not subscribe to what Gene mentioned these trucks are good for 50 mph in stock form, this is true perhaps with 4.11 or 4.56 gears, but even with my flathead 6, and 3.23 diff, can cruise nicely at 60-65mph, all day long. Nice to see you here and good luck with your truck, as you can see, getting them to handle modern freeway traffic is a quest for many besides you.......

Hi Jeff, yes economically going to a small V8 and auto trans may be the ticket, here what needs to be considered, - engine /trans -mounts for the engine/trans -drive shaft -complete exhaust front to back - rad and trans cooler, and lines - gas pedal and cable/linkages - shifter and throttle kick down cables - 12 volt conversion - gauges etc any other hidden items and expenses Can you pull your current engine/trans and do the work to make a V8 go in? Or do you have to hire out for the job? Keeping the 230,-shave head .050 -dual carbs/intake -dual exhaust/split manifolds - hotter cam profile That should yield 30 plus horsepower for about what $1000, but it will be cool and unique, dead nuts reliable and still a flattie. Just a shave head and split exhaust might give you 20 or so hp alone. There is a guy on the HAMB, who has a 52 B2B, and it has an old 392, with a truck trans and an old poorly done V8 conversion, well ,he is talking about a frame swap, dakota front clip job, a 360 and auto trans, figures he needs to have a truck that goes along at 80 mph on the freeway. Conversion to dry clutch, -dry clutch bell housing -move clutch housing cross member forward - longer drive shaft ( the FD shaft worked as it extended slightly and the 3 spd tail shaft was longer than the m5 trans at least I think.) -dry clutch trans, or a conversion to A833 trans, but you obviously need that trans and the adapter plate, drive shaft etc. - a T5 conversion, of which I know nothing about, so cannot suggest it one way or another. Conversion to a torqueflite trans, but this requires an adapter plate, and mounts for the trans and the rear of the engine, not cheap, and not a bolt on swap that is super easy Hi Frankie, yes the old 47 Chrysler, not sure Jeff remembers my car or not, originally equipped with a 250, fluid drive and M5 semi-auto trans, it ended up with a 1950 Canadian Dodge 218 long block and dry clutch 3 spd trans, with a 3.73 rearend. I can tell you compared to the 46-48 Chryslers with a 250 and fluid drive,my car with a 98 hp 218, was much quicker off the line and getting to speed, because of the dry clutch and 3.73 rearend. I have drive a few Chryslers with fluid drive and M5 semi-auto trans, and they were real dogs off the line, have not drievn a car with fluid drive and 3 spd trans, but do not think they would be as fast as a dry clutch version. I do believe in the 50s and 60s, a lot of the fluid drives were pulled out in favor of a dry clutch and 3 spd trans..

Effin Kool Fish tails!!!!

Read this, if you think a panel bonded with adhesive is weak, think again... http://wardsauto.com/news-analysis/use-bonding-sticky-question

Looks good, and is a good idea. The brackets and rod, appear to be universal type products, is it possible you could make kits, and sell to those interested?

MEK is vicious stuff, yup have seen this video before. The carb is clean, and the Xylene has the carbon soft, so will brush it off and see..

I have heard good things about "Berrysman" carb cleaner, and some reports it did not dissolve carbon, will try it and see. The carb is super clean, except some stubborn carbon coated deposit on the throat and choke flap

Hi Tim, excellent recipe, and have used similar without the Olive Oil, but Deep Creep, ATF and diesel I have used together. i will try your recipe out at some point... Now I need something that can dissolve carbon easily on carb throats, have 1 carb soaking in xylene, its not working that well,mabe lacquer thinner next. I do not think a sonic cleaner would do it either....

I know that Frankie, and you were only teasing him, as there has been a lot of talk over the years on this subject. Its all good...

swschenk, I am 1 who has no problem with you asking questions on here whether it has been archived or not. You can also use the "search" feature, but if at that point you are not satisfied, please feel free to post and ask your question. You will find some who take offence to those who do not try and answer there own concerns first Via the search process, just to give you a "heads Up". I am not normally of that mindset. So welcome to the Forum, and good luck with your mission on getting this engine free, please update and post on your progress, so some future member, might find it archived to help them with a similar situation......good luck

Those cyls can be bored out a lot, but if they are .060 already, it could be trouble. Going out to .125 ain't unheard of...

There is a lot of "depends" on this topic, and how it's seized and how badly it's seized. Some have been successful, with ATF/Diesel, filling up the cylinders and allowing it to soak for a while. Is there a stuck valve(s), is there a piston and rings rusted solid to a cylinder wall? Is the crank seized? You may get lucky, with soaking the cyls and/or spraying the valve lifters with some type of penetrating oil. Most likely the head will need to come off, to see what is going on. The worst case, is the engine needs to come out, pistons smashed out, and a complete overhaul. Or find a replacement engine and swap. I would trying the soaking with ATF/diesel first and see if you can get it to budge.

Was pondering a custom made intake, with 3 runners from a central mount for a small 4 bbl carb with small primaries and larger secondary's ( Quadrajet) comes to mind. Now you Guys who want to run 1 larger carb over multi carbs, this might be an idea. I have my doubts about it, but if anyone has made or done just this, perhaps you can chime in to answer those who may be interested....

With "Siamesed" intake ports, do not know of how a 4bbl carb could be of any benefit at all on these engines. Even if it were custom made by someone, with steel tube pipe, the 2 middle cyls would get blasted with fuel, and the outer cyls would run leaner. The / 6, and a Hudson flathead 6, have 6 intake ports, so 6 runners can be utilized to balance atomized fuel from a central mount. On our engines, this is simply not the case, and running 3 carbs would make much more sense than a 4 bbl or even 1 2bbl ever would. I have pondered a single 2bbl set-up, but again, this will not culminate with a balanced mixture of fuel, to all cylinders, again not being very efficient, and most likely would end up with less torque/hp gains and fuel efficiency and end economy too. There are those who will state a dual or tri-carb intake for our engines is just eye candy, or the Kool factor, do not see this as the case at all, but again I am no expert. Please can we have some experts chime in......LOL

2k epoxy primer, as mentioned is a good barrier seal against moisture, filler can be applied, but to be honest would rough up the area to apply filers over it and any 2 k urethane primer surfacers will require a sanding once pat the recoat window. Or you can be an elcheapo like me, use any rusty metal primer, or some type of alkyd(synthetic) enamel primer, sprayed on with it being cut with anything from mineral spirits, to xylene or even acetone, 2- 3 coats for coverage. Heck you can use small rollers and roll it on if you can't spray it. Again this type of primer once fully cured you can go over it with fillers, 2 k primer/surfacers etc...

Here ya go Guys some cold weather crusin, at it's finest northern style.