55 Fargo

Greg, I used the door pillar tag for my registration serial number, they didn't even know the difference here, I could of used the 1951 engine number I have too, they wouldn't have known the difference.............Fred

Darren that looks great, did you ever get your trunk lock fixed..........Fred

There are a few suppliers of ready made headliner and carpet/upholstery kits, Kanters is one, Roberts has premade/cut carpets, and maybe JC Whitney can also get some of these itmes...............Fred ps doorpanels can be custom made by you or a shop

The only other real difference in design between the 47 and 51 engine are this. The 47 engine has an external bypass waterpump design, the 51 engine has an internal waterpump designed block and head, and uses an internal by-pass waterpump.............Fred

I would agree there are shops out there that want to make money, and the bottom line is all that is important to there shop and pocket book. I have a honey comb style rad, I had it boiled out at a rad shop for $25.00, this type of rad cannot be rodded out, so if there is any coating in the zigzag portion of the honey comb core, it is very difficult to clean out. Mine came back pretty darn clean, with good flow, it wasn't all that dirty to begin with. I had a rad from a 1951 Dodge for a while in my 47 Chrysler, it is a tube and fin design, and is pressurized at 4 lbs. This rad was filthy,leaking and was not cooling worth as $hit.Most shops only wanted to re-core it at $350.00, I found one shop they did the rodding, cleaning and solder repair for around the $100 mark, I shipped this rad to Norway to a member of this forum, it is working good. Last summer at work, we have a couple of 2 ton trucks that were both 1980s and would boil over immediately upon driving a few miles.Both rads were recored, this brought the coolant temps to normal for both trucks. So sometimes a repair and/or cleaning can be done, other times a re-coring is necessary. I have a rad from my 47 Chrsyler parts car, I am going to have it re-cored, it will be $400.00, but the cooling will be great.............Fred

Don, we have or had a "Bank Of Canada" location here in Winnipeg, they are like the Federal Reserve Bank, they also shred money, or used to. I alwasy thought that would be a difficult job shreading money

Fedhill is kinda of expensive last time I checked, this polymer tubing is premade to certain lengths, but is real easy to bend and does not kink, it is about 30% more in price.....................Fred

Sorry to hear of the deaths attributed to the nasty weather, some areas got a lot of snow, some twisters and thunderstorms. Glad our friends on here are okay. Although it is cold here in Manitoba, we have a lot less snow than usual, not sure why, it has been brisk though, today it was about 15 outside........................Fred

Hi all, cleaned up the wiper motor from the 47 Chrysler parts car, regreased gears, reinstalled, it works good in both speeds, parks itself, and so far no issues. I even added a ground wire to supplement the ground on the wiper motor bracket. Now I have to phone the auto electric shop in the morning to see if they fixed my other wiper motor, maybe if it's not done I will cancel it, but if it isn't too much money I can always use a good spare. One thing I need is a switch knob, doesn anyone have an extra I could buy........................Fred

Not sure what they call it in your part of the USA, but they call it Polymer or Polymar tubing here in Canuckland...........Fred

It be 5/16, you can buy the easy bend stuff that don't kink. It can be made into a coil if necessary

I have my igniton light wired into the panel light switch, not sure if that is right though, but I am not changing now, you can easily change it to the park light terminal contact. I re-wired with dash in place, a lot of it 1 wire at a time, not a bad job with the radio out, the underhood harness is simple so is the harness to the trunk...............Fred

I am not putting anything like than on my floors, they are already painted seamsealed and ready to be covered............Fred

My 2 % is the horn wire Larry, there is nothing wrong with the wire, the cloth wrap is faded and a little worn in a few spots, the terminals are in great shape, thought I could cover the wire, with either shrink tube, or a 1/4 inch wire plastic tubing................Fred

Hi all, just bench tested my spare wiper motor, it seems to work well, but it is very dirty, the brushes look like they still have a bit of material left on them. What is the best way to clean the outside of the wiper motor, especially the contacts, I will clean out the old dry grease aorund the gears, that is a no-brainer. Should I open the case and clean the armamture and blow air in there or something. The other is in the shop, not sure if it si fixed or not, but it can be a spare or this one can be a spare.....Thanx Fred

Your are Right Big Time, sometimes I forget how many generations this car has seen, the late 40s all the 50s, all the 60s, all the 70s, all the 80s, all the 90s, and most of the 00s...........Fred ps when you think of it, that is a long time

Hi Bob, I have thought of using that type of material, it is cheap and would really deaden the sound factor. How about moisture, say from rain, or whatever on your feet, I know this would not be a huge issue, as the car would not be used for winter driving, which results in snow and salt meltng allover the carpet and floor mats. I could use this type of material, as the carpet may be just some cheap temporary stuff, until I can afford the real mccoy when the interior gets re-done. I just want to get the bare floor covered for appearance and noise factor, for now..................Fred

Snow, Bob, was it not in the 70s in Joplin the other day................Fred

According to my Chrsyler shop manual, the 160 degree t/stat should open at 147 to 153 and be fully open at 180. 165 degrees is a little cool to run an engine I have read in our tech section under Greybeards threads, the engine will run cleaner and more efficient at 180 or so. Greybeards quote from "Thoughts On Mopar Flatheads part 2"', How does this all relate to MoPar flatheads? The design of these engines is such that a water distribution tube is used in the cooling system to aid in dispersing coolant to the bottom of the exhaust valve seat castings. In this sense, these engines are truly overbuilt, for this is a feature not used by very many other manufacturers of the time. An analogy to this feature would be oil nozzles directed to piston crowns in modern diesel engines – a feature that goes far to extend engine life. Flathead radiators are also overbuilt from a size standpoint, and are truly impressive in their ability to transfer heat from the engine and transfer it to the air. When these engines are warmed up to 180 – 200 degrees F, they run happily all day, run more efficiently and stay cleaner. They live linger, as well. Once it is warmed up and opened, it does not keep the coolant temp at 165, once opened fully it can rise higher, especially on very hot days and driving slow or stop and go.

Hi all, this spring I want to install carpet in the 47, but I want to cover the floor with underlay, and want to use the bubble insulation for the firewall, and other areas on the inside. Which products should I use, how should it be installed, what do I need to buy?

Hi all, took my car for a spin yesterday about 5 miles, the ambient temp was 0, my garage was about 30, where the car is parked. After a quick warm-up, I went for a spin. I have 160 t/stat, it also has a tiny hole drilled in it to let water circulate a bit, I have an internal type system and t/stat to match. I drilled the hole to allow air to escape when refilling the cooling system last. Anyway, the temp gauge was bang on 160 when warm, the rad temp was about 145 to 150, this is an aftermarket cheap gauge I have, and I do know it's out, at least 10 degrees. At this temp, and mind you it was a short ride, the heater does not get overly hot, which is fine, the car is not supposed to be driven at 0 farenheit. I have recently changed the timing on my engine, I discoverd the points were only gapped at .010, I have changed it to .020, this change would change the timing wouldn't it, hopefully she runs between 165 and 190 during the warm summer weather......................Fred

Hi all, as some of you know, I have recently re-wired 98 % of my 47. The 10 Gauge wire (supposed to be green), that goes from the horn relay to the the horns, is in good shape except, it is faded white, has some wear on the insulation which is taped, but the connection terminals are in great shape and the wire appears to be also. My question is, could I cover it with heat shrink tubing, or buy 1/4 inch wire loom, to provide prtection to the wire and to make it look presentable, or should I just replace with new 10 gauge wire and be done with it. The original wire appears silver in color, is it aluminum...................Fred

Hey Rodney, I think I have even heard of Pidgeon Forge, and I am way up north........Fred

Not as much now here this year, but have had temps down to -30, it is 0 right now, going to be -10 tonight, would you rather have the sub-zero cold or snow. I personally would rather have cold than lots of snowing and freezing rain type weather.............Fred ps even drove the 47 Chrsler for about a 5 mile ride tonight at 5:30 PM central time

I have the 22 inch, not crazy about this one, should have got the 26 or 30 inch Smithy. The 22 inch is fairly loud at 45 to 60 mph, will get a quieter muffler next time, may get rid of this one, it has aonly a few hundred miles on it...............Fred