55 Fargo

Hi all, I was not able to log onto the forum for over 24 hours, whew, I thought I would go into serious withdrawl:confused: . You forget how great this site is until you can't get on it, or maybe I have a sheltered lifestyle:eek: . Anyway it's good to be back on, was on other sites the past day, but not the same as this fine site:) ...............Fred

Don, yall are part Canuck, only a Canuck or Vermonter would be able to go out barefoot in the snow with a cup of coffee. But I still would like to see you do this here on a -30 morning............LOL

Hi Ed, I ahve doen this before, the water jumped up pretty good, I then had the rad boiled out, the flow is decent. Tim Adams also tested it for me, with good results, I bought the rad form Tim. I really need to find a solution if I am dealing with an overheating issue again this spring. This what has ben done to date, 3 freeze plugs removed, the block rodded out, the water tube removed, cleaned and put back in( Itwas Brass and in good shape), new thermostat,new waterpump. Not sure what else it needs, I don't think the head gasket is leaking exhaust gas into the waterjacket, but who knows this could be a problem..........Fred

Just came back from another 10 mile ride, outside temp around 0. This time I blocked the rad with cardboard, then temp on the highway rose up to 200, so I pulled out the cardboard, when Igot home the engine temp was around 165, the top of the rad was warm, but not hot, the top of the engine itself was warm but not hot, wonder why the temp went up to 200 so fast and then came back down, after I removed the cardboard in front of the rad, you wouldn't think it would make that much difference. Last summer my engine would get hot only on high speed high rpm runs,this would be indicative of what? I may have my 47 Chrysler rad re-cored and replace the 47 Dodge rad I now have, maybe it is suspect, but who knows, the block is clean, the water tube was pulled and cleaned, the water pump is pumping like crazy......................Fred

Harold you are a thinkin man, will go and try this now...........Fred

Bob, the antenna hole is just as yours is in the picture, my after market antenna is similar to yours, except it is in 3 sections instead of 4 as yours looks to be. I do not need to make a new hole, I only need to enlarge the hole slightly to get this antenna to go into it, not that big a deal. On my car there were 2 holes in the cowl, not sure why, maybe for another type of antenna, there is also a hole in the top of the fender, the front fenders on my car were from another Chrysler, so I still need to weld in these 2 extra holes. I plan to install the OEM radio, but also want to run a cd player stereo with an auxilary 12 volt battery, not sure how I am going to do this yet. I also have a new boom box cd am/fm stereo I can use......................Fred

Normspeed, I have been to Glendora a number of times in the past. One August trp in 1989, I left Fargo ND on a Saturday morning, rolled into Glendora CA, 8:30 Sunday night, now that was travellin quick, I was driving a 1989 Pontiac Firefly, there was a gas war in the LA area, bought gas for 58 cents a gallon.....................Fred ps even if the car was 110% mechanically sound, 2100 miles is a bit far for the car, unless I trailer it there

Would it be Lower Fort Garry, if so I live about 10 minutes drive from there........fred

Ed its been a while, but I have been to your city at least 6 times, first time I was less than a year old. How about you ever been up to Winnipeg, they used to have a big snowmobile race, the Winnipeg- St. Paul 500, wonder what happened to that one....................Fred

Hi John, what do you mean it won't stay running, can you get it started, if so how, do you need to prime the carb and then the engine will start. You may want to put in new spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor,points. Your fuel system may be dirty, the carb may be all gummed up, is the gas tank clean, does your fuel pump work. How is the cooling system, do you have coolant in the rad and block, is it fairly clean, you may have to flush and clean everything, then add new coolant. You say the engine is rebuilt, can you send some pics of the engine. Where is the clutch pedal, you are going to need a good diagram of the clutch pedal and how the clutch linkage is hooked up and how it works. I do have the diagram for the 1941 to 1948 Mopar, bu the 1950 llinkage is different, and the fluid drive linkage is slightly longer and different than the dry clutch version. Keep us posted, send more pics, I am sure we can help you get this engine running, the car looks very good and is in nice straight shape.........................Fred

Norm ,sounds like you an the Mrs have had and enjoyable winter. I do have a few iinside activities, mostly watching my 2 yo Daughter and 5 yo Son, now that can keep me hopping, trust me. I figure once the both of them are in school, it will free up some time for me to pursue things I just don't seem to be able to get involved in now. I know you are from the South Norm, or the gateway to the south "Louisville", and I know you enoy living in the Milwaukee area, for family and other reasons, but I am quite sure if I lived in the States, I would choose a warmer climate area than say ND or Minnesota, mind you Minneapolis is one of the nicest cities in the world in my opinion........................Fred

I here you Ed, the other day I cleaned up and paint under the front apron just below the rad, and in front of the front end parts, maybe tomorrow will give it another coat. I still need to paint the genny and oil filter housing, going to give the engine another coat too. As soon as the weather is decent I am going to have a new tail pipe made and installed, will have them rebend my front pipe too, as when I had it made, it wasn't quite right, might get rid of my 22 inch Smithy, not sure yet I kinda like the sound of it, but at 45 to 60 mph it is loud. This is what I have done on the car since last November, re-wired about 95% of the car, bought gas tank from Tanks.inc, fabbed mounts, installed tank, ran new lines, ran new wires for the new sender unit, altered the sender to fit, installed and everything is working well. Removed old wiper motor and installed spare, cleaned and repaired it first, works very well, bought and installed new wiper blades.Last October, I swapped in a 3.73 diff, to replace the 4.30 diff I had, I also cleaned up and painted the entire underneath of the car, so I have been busy. After the exhaust is done, I plan to go through the brake system again, it is all new, but want to verify everything, go through all of the front end, prep and paint the front end parts, and front fender wells,swap the sppedo glass and maybe the speedo head with one from my parts coupe. After all the mechanicals are done, I plan to start the body work, one panel at a time...................Fred

Trust me Rodney, -2 is cold for me,at this time of the year, no hang on, I have had a brain freeze since November, don't even feel the cold, not sure why I stayed in this place Canadians jokingly call "Winterpeg", Because Winnipeg has long cold winters, although we have nice hot humid summers, but of course they are short and go by fast....................Fred

Not today my friend, just a steaming cup of Tim Horton's Coffee, Canadas premier coffee house......Fred

Hi all, well it is March the 5th, but here in Manitoba this means it can still be cold winter weather or melting spring sunshine, well unfortunately it is still dang cold , last night it was -18, today it went up to 2 or so. I am feeling a little blue ,maybe a little cabin fever, " now this is an understatement". After seeing how nice its getting in the Southern States, I am feeling a little green with envy, even though it is totally white outside here. I have been reading about some of youse guys, going for cruise and cruise- ins, etc, now this makes mee a little more like the horse all worked up in a paddock. So what do you do when this happens, you go for a ride , yup, thats what I did, it was -5 outside, started up the Coupe, went down the gravel road, got to the highway, it was bone dry, as it has been cool, so I go for a highway cruise , speeds up to about 55 to 60 mph, heater going full speed, temp runnning about 160, lots of funny looks from other drivers. Now I gotta be nuts going for a ride this time of year, when it's this cold, but heck I could not resist, I love to drive this car any chance I get, and she isn't even finished yet. If I had another driver, say a P15 or something that was on the rougher side, I would no doubt drive it year round, just for the pleasure of it:) ...............Fred

Hi all, I bought this universal antenna from NAPA for the coupe a while back. It requires a 1 inch hole, should I make the original 5/8 or 3/4 inch hole bigger:confused: to accomodate this antenna. I am not sure if I should look for another antenna or not, would like an OEM stock type, but where do I find that, and I am not crazy about paying big bucks:p for an antenna. What have a lot of yall done for your antennas, OEM or aftermarket, I hate to make the antenna hole on my cowl bigger:o if I can get myself the right antenna.................Thanx Fred

If it is a 3 spd fluid drive trans, it will not have a governor or solenoid switch on the trans, this you can see from under the car, or if there is an access plate in the floor plate. More than likely it is the 4 spd semi-auto trans, if it is, the column shifter will look the same as a 3 spd trans. The difference is this, the 3 spd trans will shift as any normal 3 spd trans. The 4 spd trans shifts as this, pull the shifter back and up is reverse, push the shifter out and up is low range, push out and down is high range. If the trans is in high range, you can let your foot off the clutch, and the car won't stall , you dirve it, then let your foot off the gas at about 20 to 25 mph, the trans will then shift itself to a higher gear, it will also kick down if you floor the engine, or shift down when you slow right down. You should post all of these questions in the P15 D24 forum, you will get far more responses, also fill out a profile, so we know who you are and what you are driving. If you have brakes, you need to get the engine running to see what is up with things...........Fred

Dave, I was looking on there website, let us know how these work, I did see they also sold light sockets with circuit boards, do you also need these to use there LED bulbs or not. I also have a friend here a "retired mechanical engineering teacher", he makes little circuit boards to allow the use of brake lights to be used with the signal tail lights, instead of just the 1 stop lamp, he is going to make a pair for me, it's around $20.00 to make these. I will let yall know how that goes.................Fred

Go to www.moparts.com, look for Paintjob on a Budget,in the Questions and Answers section, it is a lengthy thread dedicated to roller painting, the techniques, the products to use etc........Fred PS I know the individual who started this thread, he also has perfected this method of painting, he has done a 1969 Charger, General Lee orange and his VW Beetle, as well as a host of other cars............Fred

Norm, all is working well, just thought I had wired something wrong, the ebrake shares the same flasher as the signals for the car, you cannot see mine at all, it is mounted in the dash.............Fred

Hi Norm, my map and dome lights work as you have described, I have a switch under dash drivers side just for the map/courtesy light that is under dash on the right side. The left light under dash flashes when the ebrake is on, that circuit is wired through the signal flasher. I thought I had it wired incorrectly, sounds like I have it right, as you and others have described...........Fred ps my instrument panel lights come on with a switch beside the light switch on the dash with the rest of the switches, this was also wired wrong at one time, it was wired with the main light switch, I have since changed this when rewiring the car.

Robert the left side light is wired and flashes if the ebrake is on, that part is correct on mine, I had to wire that one and figure it out from scratch. I am talking about the right side map light, the switch is under dash for this light, on the drivers side..........Fred

You know what Bill, if I could find a P15 or a D25 of any style for a daily driver I would use such a vehicle for the dry months , which is April till November each year. I actually would have liked to have a P15 or a D25 rather than my 47 Chrysler Coupe, the P15 would have been more of my blue color style if I had been alive when they were new..........Fred

Love it Norm Love it, this place is a bit too serious lately, we need to yuck it up a bit with the OT comments. PS is the worm in the bottle of Mescal dead or passed out

Hi all, I finally got some Trico 33-111 wipers for my car, although there were a few pairs locally, I chose to order through NAPA, NAPA had to bring them in from Vancouver Area in BC on the west coast, at first they did not get shipped via truck, then they were sent by plane, the plane broke down, so I got them like 10 days later. I picked them up today, they are not straight as the OEM type is, So I straightend them out for my straight glass on the front window, is this the case for all of these newer wiper blades, I also had to bend the fitting tabs on the end of the wiper arms for the blades to sit in place, no big deal. The wipers work very well after these adjustments...............Fred