55 Fargo

Hi all, noticed my engine runs about 155 to 165 in the cool weather, with the ambient temp around 15 to 20 degrees. Last summer I did go through some bouts of temps going up to about 195, on few occasions, with the ambient temp around 90 and humid. I am wondering, will my flattie warm up to same temps at 20 degrees outside as it would when it is 55 to 70 outside. I would think the cool air when it is 20 outside would flow through the rad and the heat transfer would be a lot better than when it is 75 outside. I also now have a real gas tank, the jerry can I used to use as a porta tank, sat in the compartment just in front of the rad, no doubt it may have been blocking airflow to the rad...............Thanx Fred

Just came back from a 12 mile run to the local General Store with gas pumps, liquor, fried chicken, and hardware. Bought a few more gallons of gas, estimated to have about 4 gallons in the tank, the tank was sitting steady at 1/4 after adding more gas, it's a 16 gallon tank, so it's about right. At the same time I dropped my Wife's son at his buddies place, way in the back country, nice scenic ride, car was running great, temp steady at 160, no problems, except it isn't all that warm inside with the one heater and the engine at 160. Came across a truck on a one lane road, lots of snow on shoulders and ditch, was a little scary passing each other, think I will keep the car in the garage till all the snow melts and things are dry.....................Fred ps no more tank talk after this thread from me.

Dennis and Rodney, I put up a clothes line last summer for my wife, it is complete with elevator pulley on one end, so I did not need to make a platform with stairs. Now puttin on my skivvies once theys froze aint too much fun, but helps with keepin me in-control, if you know what I mean. Rodney, are you offering any franchises in this new/old venture.....LOL

Hi all, connected the line from the fuel pump to the fuel line going to the tank, checked all the connections, on the lines and filler neck hoses and flange. I then poured in a couple of gallons of gas, no leaks going down the filler neck, started the engine, no leaks on the fuel line or the connection unions, no leaks going to fuel pump either, no leaks where fuel line connects to the gas tank. I am a happy man, will add a few more gallons of gas tomorrow, and hopefully all is well...............Fred

Hi all, what is the best method for checking out the front end, I have inspected the tie rod ends, king pins, springs etc. The tie rod ends seem okay, not sloppy, with very little play, the king pins have a slight amount of play, the springs are in good shape, the shocks are new. What should I look for, what have most done, should everything be replaced or can these parts be good for a lot of miles...........Thanx Fred

Okay, the dumb question, is how does this work, and how do they go on the fuel lines and where do they go on......Thanx Fred

Shel, Churchill is 800 miles north of where I am seated right now, never been there, not much desire either, we have enough winter down in the very south end of Manitoba. Polar Bear sight seeeing is a regular occurence in Churchill, folks come from all over the globe to study them in that town of about 3000 people.

Hi all, I asked this question a different way a few weeks ago, but here goes. If my point gap on my flattie was .010, instead of .020, resulting in a larger cam angle, would this cause me to have late or early engine timing? Would this cause hard starting, would it cause the engine to run hotter, what else might it affect? Trying to understand the relationship between cam angle and valve timing and it's overall affect on the engine performance..........Thanx Fred

Normspeed, the Crocus is Manitoba's official Provincial wild flower, you are right as soon as the snow melts off the ground they come up, we also have Lady Slippers, Wild Roses, Wild Tiger Lilys, Wild Water Lilies, Indian Paint Brushes, all kinds of Wild Daisies...............it was about 28 to 30 here today...........Fred

Hey, was wonderin who would notice the fuzzy dice, they smell real purdy too...............LOL

How is this for a Wacky Canuck, ready to go for another ride, temp is 20 outside. My car, and my estate, life is good today, just need an ice cream cone...............Fred

Here is a pic of a new fuel line union along the frame, I am not overly worried about these.....fred

Thanx Norm, I rmeber you story of the spilt gas in your garage, Murphys Law dictates this should happen in winter. I figure I will wait till warm spring weather first before I do this test. I am still running on a porta tank right now, man this thing and it's line never leaks

Tim, so disconnect the fuel line at the tank, make a short line to go back into a jerrycan, fill with gas at tank filler neck and watch for leaks. As the filler neck flange is near the top of the tank it will take about 8 to gallons of gas to reach that level to see what is leaking. Maybe I should pour in a gallon or 2 of gas, start engine, check for leaks along new lines. Shut off engine, change gas filter, re-fill tank if not leaking, then see how sealed the filler neck flange is. Sure would be nice to have someone like you or Norm M around to supervise me on this and many other fixes..........Fred

Hi all, I bought the Mopar gas tank from Tanks.Inc, it is now installed in my 47 Chrashler. The filler neck screws on with 6 machine screws, so I am bit concerned whether I did the job right when attaching this neck, it uses a thick neoprene gasket, I also as recommended used Permatex Aviation sealant on the gasket surfaces as well. I also ran new steel gas lines,I have 2 unions on the line from tank to fuel pump, I have not checked any of this or the tank for leaks. My question is, is it possible to check this for leaks in a simple way, or should I pour in the gas and hope for the best..............Thanx Fred

Norm, as cold as it is in Winnipeg City, it is the 7-11 Slurpee capital of the world...

John I would be interested in the hi-perf ideas for the long blocks. I have a 218 long block, and 3spd standard with a dry clutch in my 47 Chrysler Coupe. But I have 2- 251s to be build up , with either dual or tri carbs, might even want to try a 2 bbl set-up if possible and headers, a wilder cam, etc. I also hve access to a 265 engine on a Lincoln welder, its about 10 miles from home, i can have it for a $100 if I want it.......................Fred

Let me know Don if you will be in Winnipeg Manitoba, for any of the installs, but more than likely you will be in Toronto or Ottawa

You Betcha Donny

I concur, well said Don............Fred

Here is how you do it, you fire up that old Mopar and go for a cruise. Thats what I did, it is about 28 outside, sunny and calm, a beautiful winter day. I decided to take my 5 year old son and go to the Clandeboye General Store, in Clandeboye, 5 miles by gravel road from my place. It was a nice ride, the gravel road still had some solid ice on it, as it was around 0 here overnight. We passed by snowmobilers, they have a double take at the 47 Chrysler and wave, we drove by a skating rink, and the people wave, as you don't see car like mine every day around here, especially in winter. Bought my son an ice cream cone at the store, and we headed home, the car ran great, and the engine temp was around 160. Upon arrival home I did an inspection of under the car to see if I had got it dirty much, hardly nothing, as I was going fairly slow, I did not drive on the highway, as it was wet with slush and ice melter chemical. So this is how to beat the winter blahs up north, I know my car is not finished, not sure when it will be either, but I am having some fun with it already and plan to do more. The car will get finished when resources become available, in other words, when I have more cash she be fixed up more...............Fred

I agree this is great engine oil, is the formula still the same, will it be absent of the necessary ingredients we need for long engine life in our flatheads...............Fred

Hi all, was reading a detailed article about modern oils for old style engines with in the Winnipeg Free Press Auto Special Friday section today. Now this article went on to discuss the absence of zinc maganese and/or phophates in modern high detergent engine oils. This article discusses how modern oils absent in ZDDP can cause cam lobe and tappet wear. This article states to look for oil with SL or SJ ratings, here are a few oils they recommend Redline Street blend oils, Amsoil 20W50, Valvoline VR-! 20 W50, Castrol Syntec 20W50 High Zinc Formula oil. Would like to start a discussion with this, I am currently using Shell Rotella T 15 W 40 motor oil in my 47 Chrysler flathead 6................................Fred

This is common with tires that are too wide, usually beyond P205 75 15, can produce this effect, what about spacers behind the rims.........Fred

Hi all, had my car out yesterday for a spin, I then let the engine run for about 20 minutes in the driveway, was checking to see what temp she would go up to in the cold. I did notice the carb body leaking at the top joint, is this indicative of the float set to high or what, it was wet with gas, not streaming or anything....................Thanx Fred