55 Fargo

Hi Jim, here is a schematic to create a tail light,turn signal and brake light in one, this will require a diode, this is a design for 6 v Positive ground.

Mackster I am off to work today, wha area do you want pics of, the wire harnesses are all bundled,taped, snap tied up, hard to tell what is what by pics. Maybe I can help you out with yours, what are the questions you have......................Fred

Hi all, spent about 8 hours today after working a 12.5 hour night shift, going through all the wires under dash and under hood. I thought the wriing was better than I discovered, , the following discoveries, wrong wire gauges, poor terminal contacts, frayed wires, curcuits wired wrong, one example, the dash lights were wired to go with the light switch, rather than going on by the panel switch. All the dash lights were pulled right out, I made a new harness for that out of 14 gauge wire, used the same sockets, they were okay, soldered and connected it all together, wired it into the correct panel switch. I re-wired or repaired ends for every circuit under dash, moved wires around, made it a lot more neat and tidy under there. Re-wired all the front light and signal curcuits with fresh 12 and 14 gauge wire, the headlights are very bright, pleasantly surprised as it is a 6 volt system. All the wiring going to the trunk for the rear lights, were in good shape, newer type 16 gauge wire, decided to leave the tail lights, the rear signal, license plate light and stop light in 16 gauge wire, it should be more than adequate for the small bulbs. I rewired underhood as well, the whole horn relay, solenoid, ignition curcuit, new wires to the genny and dizzy. I still have to re-wire the horns to the horn realy, but I ran out of green 10 gauge wire, and did not want to use red, as I had used quite a bit of red under hood already. So there you have it, these cars are not hard to rewire at all, just follow the scehmatic and no problem, mind you most of the circuits I knew from studying them quite a bit lately. I still need to fix my stuck wiper motor, maybe on the next days off...........Fred

My fuel filter is from the fuel pump line to the carb, is that a poor location. I have heard it is not a good location for a fuel filter, no sure why though, other than perhaps engine heat............Fred

The carb screws are tight, but a leaking intake manifold migh cause this problem I suppose. After the block warms up, it might start leaking, you might not notice it when the engine is cooler. I plan to take the intake off, and repair the heater riser, so maybe that will help..................Thanx Fred

Jim double verify this, so there are no hidden surprises later, as long as the coolant can circulate, before the t/stat opens is critical.............Fred PS Tim Adams or Greybeard might know the answer to this

Hi Jim, it is new, in fact almost brand new, just came in, had a look at the linkage, the fast idle cam and linkage, all is in nice clean shape, if there is a problem, it is possibly inside of the carb. The carb was rebuilt by an experienced old car guy, about a year or so ago, but this problem happens all summer long also..................Fred

No kidding Don, can you picture me pushing this boat down the gravel road, it is actually 2 above, thought it was warmer.Good thing there is winter here, I am sure if I lived in your climate I would drive the car just about year round, I can see this thing being driven daily, I am hooked on it..........

Jim, you are basically using the t/stat housing, and external by-pass pump on the internal by pass block. 1st question, have you tried this before, 2nd question, could you go strictly internal bypass, you would need the t/stat housing, the waterpump, thats it. From your question, I see you want to use the new waterpump you already have, I would want to also if in your position. Here is the scoop, you can use an internal by-pass wter pump on an external by pass system, but not the reverse. The internal system, normally has the t/stat housing which houses only a t/stat, no by-pass hose to direct water thorugh the waterpump into the block, etc. But since you have the external t/stat housing and the waterpump, you may be able to make this work, as you said, you need to seal off the internal by pass system from water pump to block, a good gasket and sealant should take care of this. Your coolant system is not under pressure, so you do not risk anything because of a pressurized system. Not sure if that helped.........Fred

I looked at the fast idle cam, seems to be in the normal position, the idle speed is up, but not like when it is in the fast idle position.........Fred

Today went for a cruise today, went about 6 miles, but its cold around 5 above, the engine ran great, the temp gauge went up to about 165 during this run, but at 160 on this gauge is actually about 150 to 155 in the top of the rad, so it wasn't overly warm inside, a 180 t/stat would probably heat things up better, but my car isn't meant for winter driving, but the road is dry so why not go for a spin. Here is another thing going on, after a bit of a run, where I am going about 40 mph or faster, and when I come to a stop, the engine idle is higher than what is normal for a warm idle. I just set the idle, and mixture a few weeks ago. When I turn off the car, it starts a bit hard, and seems slightly flooded, but clears it self quickly enough. Throughout my ride the engine is running great, no hesitation, accelerates well, runs nice, but the darn idle is up when I come to a stop. Is the float sticking, is it the accelarator circuit sticking or acting up, not sure what the problem is. Checked the coil, it was slightly warm from the engine, but not hot, the starter motor was cold, the top of the head was slightly warm, but I could touch the engine all over with my bare hand, this is after driving 6 miles, goes to tell you how long it takes these engines to warm up in the cold. I was having this problem last year, I want to correct this, and determine what the problem is...........Thanx guys Fred

Hi all, was out in the 47 today, I was trying the wipers, the motor stopped with the wipers stuck pointed upwards to the top of the glass. I am not sure what is wrong with it, the wires from the switch need attention, but there is current on the hot wire leading from the power source. I do have a 20 amp inline fuse on this circuit, the fuse is alright, I have had this motor stick before. Can these wiper motors be rebuilt, at an auto electric shop, I also have a spare motor in my parts car..Thanx Fred

Hi Pat, its not too bad here today -8 c,which is about 15farenheit or so.....Fred

I know the song, I do have a Prodigal Son, he will be 25 In May, I have not seen him in 5 years, but will celebrate if and when he returns. His choice, maybe someday he will see my 47 and we can go for a ride, and he can bring my 3 year old Grandson, I have never seen my Grandson to date...................Fred

Maybe it will dry a tad harder when reduced with the Lacquer, and of course will dry faster. I cut my rust primer with enamel reducer which is toulene and xylene based,but I was spraying it.

Rodney thats God Awful, I have a tough time thinking about my parents not being alive, they are 73 and 75, there gettin on now, so I will face this someday too. As Pat has said, it sounds like things turned out well for you, I also have read that you go and see your Grandpa a lot, sounds like you 2 are close....................Fred

Thanx Ed

Rodney, those were great cars, I used to blow the doors off SBC on a regular basis. I ven beat a n El Camino one time with a 396, but that one wsn't the fastest 396 I have seen. I used to race my brother with his Motor cycles, I usually got beat there. I had a lot of fun with that car, nothing like the sound of a Mopar 340 screamin down the road at 2:00 AM, burining so much rubber off the line, it was like a haze around the street lights. My borother borrowed one of my vehicles in the middle of the night one time, it was my 1964 Chev Pickup, it was a short box CustomCab with a 292 4 spd, he wrecked 2 tires, and damaged one whole side, he hid for 2 days, my Mom gave me a Savings Bond of his to cover the damage. I would not lend cars either,never know what they might do with it.............Fred ps that wife who used to be the girlfriend sounds like an Angel to me, my friend

Charlie I also belong to a tiny Yahoo group 40s Canadian Chrysler Group, we have only 30 members, very few posts, I don't like the Yahoo format, I do not frequent there much anymore..............Fred ps I did do the OPT OUT to keep them from snooping at least for now

I was thinking of trying this tonight, but it's too darn cold, its -12 outside now...........Fred

Hi Norm, the heater is hooked up and works great, but at todays temp it took a while to get warmed up, having no carpet or interior besides the seats, makes it a little cold too. One thing I noticed, when my gauge read 160, the heater didn't feel all that warm, it isn't till it's at 175 or 180 that it feels warm, but the temp gauge must be out at least 10 to 15 degrees. When it reads 175 to 180 on this cheap aftermarket gauge, the temp with a thermometer in the top of the rad reads 165, and this thermometer is pretty accurate. We dont' have all that much snow here this winter, we had a lot more last year. The gravel was dry, so I went for a rip, I wouldn't go too far in this weather, it was -7 when I went for the short cruise, would not want to break down with the 47 in this weather,that would not be fun.............Fred

Its leaking and has been for years, but it doesn't leak all that fast.......Fred

You are bang on my Friend, enjoy life and living, these cars were meant to be enjoyed as long as we are in the game for. My step-father was diagnosed 2 weeks ago with inoperable stomach, bowel, cancer, he had been fairly healthy till now, he is going down hill fast, he is 76, had a decent life so far, we hope he gets this summer yet, but it doesn't look good.

Well it was a coollllllllllllllllllllllll ride..................Fred

The main circuit is running from the ammeter to the light switch with a 12 gauge wire, I think it is yellow, from there it goes to the dimmer switch, at that point you have 4 wires, your power, your lead to high beam, your lead to low beam and your lead to the high beam indicator light on the dash. If it were only headlight rrelated, then possibly the head lights might only go off. But the main hot wire from the ammeter to the light switch,is protected with a 30 amp stud ciruit breaker, if there is a short, amperage draw overload, it would cause the circuit breaker to cycle. Or it could be as simple as the main hot wire to the light switch is got a bad connection, that would knock out all the lights, including the dash lights, as it's power feed is from the main light switch. Check all the connections, look for damaged wire, has anything been changed in the light circuit lately. Check the terminals at the front of the rad, if 2 wires or ring terminals are shorting, that would cause a problem......Fred