Greg51T&CWagon

Not sure if you cured your noisy clutch but on mine it turned out to be a missing spring from the linkage. When the new engine was installed it was left off.

Wow, Just had this noise appear with my truck. Yesterday, This exact noise and conditions. My clutch is a new high performance clutch, new everything, bearing, plate the whole shebang. The noise appeared when I adjusted the clutch pedal to give less play, I suspect i let it out too far. I bet you're problem is related to adjustment as well. I will hopefully get mine adjusted today or tomorrow to see if that stops the noise.

A google search for welding pot metal will turn up some options, the thing is the weld will need to be ground, heat applied etc, that area is going to look gnarly compared to your otherwise nice chrome plating.

It has a separate usb rechargeable battery.

If you disconnected the vac line and still had the problem my money is on your MC being the fault. Not releasing pressure. pedal travel , assembled wrong, something there..

Without a picture it's hard to say. However if it is possible to get behind the fabric, you may be able to apply a fusible interlining to stabilize it? It would be very tricky to do while the upholstery is in place. You'd need to be able to slip a backer behind it with the fusible and then apply heat with an iron to do the trick. This would not work with vinyl btw.

My r10 equipped truck came to me with a toggle switch. It only has two positions. Why not start by dismounting it from the dash so you can easily get to the back of it and using a multitestor run through the positions and see what you get? Greg

Keep us posted on how it turns out. greg

If you don't want a pro to sew a binding on you might try this stuff. Looks like a careful application could yield good results.

Column shift control arm? You need a bushing set.

Saw that someone has converted one of these to play 45s which gives a more reasonable price and selection of music for it. First saw one of these as a teen in a 50s era Ranchero that had been customized in the 60s alla Barris, the car was metal flake banana yellow....

My R-10 in my Chevy has a reverse lockout if it is engaged. I assume yours is the same. No reverse while engaged.

Just mentioned scarcity downside b/c I've run into a quandary finding a driver side gravel guard. Specific to year and model. Only about 1200 of my wagons were made and the only one I've found in a junk yard is missing that guard. Even knowing this I woulda bought mine anyway. I'm stubborn like that.

You don't want ti to be too rare then finding parts specific to it will be a bear. You might check around junk yards to see if there are any part car sources out there. I'm assuming it needs restoration/work. anything missing?

Curious how this setup works with fluid drive? would one have the electrics work off just one of the carbs?

My guess-tament based on doing my truck frame off paint little bodywork, new interior, brakes, gas tank etc. paint 15k, brakes, carb rebuild etc, new radiator, tires etc about 3k add 3-5k for rebuilding engine pulling replacing...Interior for my truck was 1.5k a car might be a bit more. I had this done in Houston. So you should have something nice to drive at about 20-25K Finding the folks to do it is the challenge. I understand wanting to get to the finish, tho doing the work yourself is a lot of fun.

Are you sure those aren't seat covers? have you taken a seat out and look at the attachment area to see if there is something underneath?

I love this sort of ingenuity! I suppose next you'll be telling us about how your glovebox is a microwave? ?

For the radio in my truck i had to use ferrite core suppressors ( link) on all the wires leading to the radio. You can buy a bag of em of different sizes. The suppressor cores worked. If you can coil the wire then put the core over the coil so that multiple passes of the wire go through the suppressor that seems to help too. Probably wouldn't hurt to put a big one on the coil wire? I put em all over the wires connected to the radio. it's easy to do, they just snap on.* other things to do. Increase the wire sizes from the alternator to the battery also make sure all your grounds are good and adequate. Increase the gauge of the ground wire for the radio. making a shield for the back of the radio out of Mu-foil (google this it's pretty cool) might help as long as it doesn't trap heat. *this was for a retrosounds unit but the principal is the same I believe for original radios.

I had this problem on my old truck that had sat for 20 years. I thought I had it all fixed until late at night coming home on the turnpike with a semi behind me the engine cut out, the semi driver was wide awake and helped me by staying behind me with his flashers on (there was no shoulder) till i got it started again and was able to get home.. Replace the entire fuel line from the tank to the carb, rebuild the carb, add the two filters mentioned above and have the tank professionally cleaned.

Whatever happened to ABC Upholstery in Philly? They had a huge inventory of original fabric. They did my Willys wagon's headliner in the correct woven straw years ago. I wonder who got their stock?

Sorry it only says that little bit I copied. I shouldn't think it would be that expensive to convert a drum? just need to start with one identical to the two you have on the car. Or know what the exact difference is. The Dummy would have to be bigger but not smaller obv. Greg

Thought I'd post the passages in the Motor Manual that I referred to showing how to use a dummy drum to set the shoe clearances in lieu of a Ammco gage. greg

I was thinking I'd get a drum in good condition and take mine with it to be turned and ask the machinist to cut, mill? the ports in the extra one. So they're all the same. That red gage above? could someone print one of those with enough integrity/rigidity to work? but i'd assume cutting an old drum would be much cheaper. greg

I saw this mentioned in Motors 14th ed manual. A drum made with an open face to adjust the shoes with a feeler gauge. Obviously you'd need to know the difference between your drum and the dummy or keep them turned to the same size. Is it feasible to create a dummy drum by machining a port or ports on the front face? Thinking since i'm converting the front to disk, I'd only need one for the rear If this has been discussed before I apologize, I've searched high and low for any mention of this. Greg