Jump to content

jcox04

Members
  • Posts

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    53 new yorker

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    27 years Autoshop teacher Hollywood H.S.
  • Occupation
    retired/real estate

Converted

  • Location
    L.A.
  • Interests
    cars, motorcycles, skiing

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Update; Incorrect master cylinder repair kit. The piston is too long which is blocking the return port. Just ordered new one. Thanks for the help, the old style brake booster was the focus of my attention, should have thought of master cylinder when I plugged vacuum line and problem persisted
  2. Appreciate the information. I will investigate, thanks
  3. I have been slowly restoring my 53 for several years. Close to finishing but power booster is not cooperating. I have replaced wheel cylinders, flex hoses, brake shoes and rebuilt master cylinder. When I drove car around the block the brake pedal travel kept diminishing and brakes tightened up. Car would still move under power but brakes were tight. When I shut off vehicle brake lights would stay on for about 10 minutes (pressure switch). Next day pedal had normal travel but again moved up with several pumps of pedal. I found a rebuilder on ebay and had unit rebuilt. About a year lapsed as I had family issues to deal with. Upon installing new unit and bleeding brakes I still have the same problem. I tried disconnecting the vacuum line to unit, but still have the same tightening issue when the brake pedal is applied several times. I tried contacting rebuilder with no success. My next move is to bypass the booster, however if I remember correctly, there is a return line from the booster to the master cylinder? I'm open to suggestions
  4. I purchased new tires for my New Yorker and had them installed with new valve stems (.625"). Discovered that stems were leaking and that stem holes in rim are oval. I am thinking best solution is to install inner tubes or are there valve stems that will seal the oval holes??? Did the car originally come with tubes?
  5. I found a rebuilder on ebay, Power Brake Exchange. $395 to have my unit rebuilt. Looks to be at least a month, hopefully I will have a positive report then. Other than a short drive in 1980 to a storage garage, haven"t had it on the road since 1970..... I was not looking forward to bypassing booster, as rebuilding prospects were looking dim.
  6. Up date I pulled the booster vacuum line with car off, it was still holding vacuum. I guess the vacuum line at engine connection must have one way valve? Also seems that booster diaphragm must be working (engine idles smoothly). With vacuum line disconnected I ran car up and down the driveway braking each time. Same symptom as before; brake pedal was all the way up and brake lights stayed on after shutting down car. Seems the problem must be in the booster assembly. From the posts, sounds like getting the assembly repaired/replaced will be challenging and that the solution is to baypass? BTW; other than the booster, everything in the system was replaced (shoes, wheel cylinders, hoses) or rebuilt (master cylinder) thanks for the feedback!
  7. I finally put my NYer on the street for a test drive after about 3+ years of restoration. Braking is good (too good?) as booster is not releasing pressure. Noticed brake lights were still on after car was shut off and brake pedal all the way up. Light will go off after a few minutes, especially if I pump on the brakes. Also, while car moves ok under power, brakes are definitely tight. Since 1970 car was driven once about 5 miles in 1980, and I did not work on the booster, I am assuming it needs rebuilding. Any sources for rebuilding? (I did replace brake shoes, wheel cylinders and rebuild master cylinder) Thanks for the help. Great forum
  8. I am now wondering if there was a mercury switch in the light assembly. When I first installed it the light did not work. I proceeded to disassemble it, did some modification on the center between incoming wire and bulb so the 2 connected. Never knew that mercury switches were sometimes used on trunks. I did look in the factory manual, nothing about any type of switch. Thanks for the input...live and learn Jeff
  9. Reattaching my 53 New Yorker trunk light. The feed wire is hot (6 volts) and seems to have no switch. When light assembly is attached to trunk it grounds the circuit turning the light on. Following the feed wire back; it runs to the wire loom to the front of the car. With the old fabric wire insulation, no way to look for the insulation color under the hood. Any thoughts? thanks Jeff
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use