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"JEEBUS" No. 2 ! Looking at all the heavy corrosion found in the tappet chambers on the previous page, this engine needs to be removed and placed on a stand and disassembled. Even if it turned over, it's in no shape to run with all that crap in there. There is likely corrosion that you can't see that is locking up the rotating assembly. The block needs to be thoroughly cleaned - baked, tanked, blasted, and inspected before proceeding. You might already have a boat anchor on your hands, but you won't know until you can have a shop inspect it. I'm trying to save you time from making more snausage here. Hopefully it's still good!

Since the Fluid Drive is a fluid coupling, as you reference, there is no direct connection between the transmission and the engine. This is why you MUST have a working Parking Brake on FD equipped vehicles. If parked on a grade, even with the transmission in low gear, the vehicle will roll. At very low speeds there will be no power transfer through the Fluid Drive fluid coupler, which will allow the transmission to spin with very little resistance. When the engine is running the internal fins on the Impeller side of the FD will force the oil in the FD unit to transfer power to the Turbine side (output/clutch). The higher the RPM the more power will be transmitted through the FD.

When starting cold I give the pedal a couple of pumps, then step on the start pedal and crank it right up. When starting HOT I have found that it starts better with the throttle slightly open. I used to use the throttle knob for that purpose, then found it easier to use the throttle pedal. After a few 2 footed starts I learned to use my toe on the starter with my heal on the throttle pedal. Quick and easy hot starts that way.

I also saw where someone melted the goo out of the back of the Mopar unit and used it to hide the GM one.

A very early Good Morning from The Gateway to the Sierra. I spent several cold hours out in the boatyard, cleaning up my VW chassis, rolling it back over to hit the ugly spots with a grinder. Scraping, wire brushing sanding and feathering paint is nearly done on the bottom side. I want to put some more spot welds on the pan. About 50 more. I am praying the weather will get dry enough to paint before it all gets rusty again. I still have a bit of minor welding on the topside first. I’m not used to wearing gloves just for sanding, but I am much more sensitive to cold weather now, than when I lived on the muskeg, in Baudette, at the Northwest Quadrangle. That’s farther north than 3/4 of all Canadian people live. I didn’t realize at the time why the only TV shows we ever got were some variety show from Winnipeg, with stomping Tom Connor, and then Hockey Night in Canada. I prefer the local warm weather, hitting 54F yesterday. Here’s hoping for continued warm weather. The paint I bought wants 55 min. I will heat the paint and the metal before I try to spray, but first it gets etched.

Weeel, there is a old rumor going around about Grandpa's Suburban. 🤔 He got drunk one night and the old rumor goes, he hit a parked car and raced home so fast he created a rod knocking. Then he painted the car cream white because thats what he had lying around .... He would never drive the car on the road and while moving it around his junk yard the bearing froze and locked the engine up .... car sat since the mid 1960's ... just a rumor of course. 🙄 I have a 1951 Ford V8 that was locked up tighter then a drum .... I found a mouse nest under the intake. tried everything and could not get it to break free. I removed the timing chain and the crank was locked up. I started by removing all the rods/pistons from the block ... all looked fine and was a fresh rebuild before engine was parked. I then started on the main caps and again they looked fine ... except the last one by the rear seal ... had a drop of mouse pee on it and that was enough to lock it up. Once I removed the bearing, looks fine ... the crank has a slight bluish color in the tiny spot .... I plan to assemble it with the same bearings .... but just a drop of mouse pee locked it up. Your engine has a story to tell, you are this far into it .... would not hurt to just remove and inspect the bearings and then put them back where you found them .... you have 9 sets down there and just one bad one is all it takes.

Another thought to consider is to pull the timing chain. Then you can turn the crank and cam separately and see what's going on

To me, that does not look like an engine where the pistons are stuck in the bores. That leaves the valve tappets, the rod or main bearings, something in the connection between the crankshaft and the transmission or cam shaft frozen. Not much else I can think of that matches your description.

Question... on this 50 special deluxe, Any problem swapping the dual action fuel pump for a single? Anyone know if the pump arm is the same? I won't be needing the vacuum assistance, I have 47 Chrysler electric wiper set on the way. I've been working on this with a friend in weekends. I've got a lot of info lurking here. Thank you all! So far she's had done; Replace entire brake system sans master cylinder (Vette type on the way) Split fuel tank and deleted the built in pickup filter. Installed inline filters. All new rubber hoses, belts,lines. Electronic ignition installed, timed Rebuilt carb Freed up and cleaned and lubed all switches and linkages and wiring connectors Flushed heater core Rebuilt heater box and blend doors Replaced thermostat Oil pan gasket Pinion seal All lube Freed a stuck ring New exhaust Put about 100 miles on her so far ran great until the fuel pump gave out. Everything is working. 28k on her, 4th owner. This weekend, fuel pump,master cylinder, LED headlights, taillights and guage lights. Electric wipers and possibly a yf knockoff carb install ( idle orifice tube is worn at the tip and can't be snugged without cutting off the idle circuit, no way to get a replacement that I know of) Near future Ac installation which I'd love to share here, I have a few unique ways to overcome the issues of doing this on a 6v system. Paint job and minor body work.