Leaderboard

I also spent some time getting familiar with wheels with oval valve stem holes. I took the original wheels to Discount Tire to replace the old tube tires with tubeless, and they used standard round rubber valve stems. One of the tires would only hold air for half a day, so I took it back, and they concluded that the valve stem hole in the wheel had "wallered" or rusted into an oval shape, and that the wheel would no longer work. I looked at the wheel when I got it back, and the valve hole definitely looked purposefully oval, so I took it to a mom & pop tire shop, and fortunately he knew about these types of wheels and had an oval valve adapter that could be used to seal a tubeless valve. The other three tires are holding air with the round base valve stems, but I ordered some of these to have on hand and am tempted to have them swapped in preemptively: https://ts-warehouse.com/products/tr501ov-1-1-2-brass-clamp-in-oval-tubeless-tire-truck-valve-stem-pack-of-4 Also available on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/383164156541 You learn something new every day with these amazing machines... 😊

additional information - Fluid Drive demonstration

Saturday I had to say goodbye to the truck... He left for paint! 😁

Other things that can cause issues pumping: An air leak on the suction side of the pump. Collapsing flex hose. Clogged fuel line from tank. Clogged filter in tank.

Ktb - you got lucky on the rims. My truck’s 16” rims were rusted inside beyond belief. I wanted to use my original hub caps, so I sent the rims to the “Wheel Master” (I think - it’s been a while) and they removed my centers and put them in new barrels. Not cheap, but much safer than when I started.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this mashed B-1or2 on the FB...it probably buffed out

Ktb - not totally sure of your question, but I’ll take a shot. If your clutch is frozen to the “flywheel,” you simply start unbolting the clutch. When the engine is not running, the engine is not driving the flywheel. So, the FD coupler doesn’t move, but you can turn the clutch, unless the trans is frozen or in gear. Pull the trans and the clutch and “flywheel” spin freely. For example, when I park my FD truck on a hill, I have to make damn sure the e-brake is working good, or the truck rolls off. Once it gets about 10 mph, the trans spins the clutch and flywheel to the point the engine will start turning over. The good news, you can pull it to start it. The bad news, if your brake does not hold and you did not block the wheel, you get to chase your truck down the hill, jump on the running board, open the door, get in, and step on the brakes- don’t ask how I know… When I needed to turn the engine over, I pulled the spark plugs and put the big socket on the nut that holds the pulley to the crank. If you can’t turn the engine over, pull the plugs and give each cylinder some Marvel Myster Oil and let soak. If it starts to turn by hand and stops, good chance a valve or two is stuck in the guides. If you think this is happening, pull the valve covers and watch to see valves move when turning it over. (And it turned my photo upside down.)

I think there is a pump flow test that can be done. You can do a vacuum test on the inlet side of the pump You could test it all the way to the tank if wanted to ensure no leaks in the line and are not sucking air. The problem with testing pump flow in a vise is you may be taking a longer stroke than the engine does.

you only live once so live it to your fullest.....a project car especially a Mopar and new shop will likely add years to your life....congrats on the purchase and the shop build.....while a tad more out of the coffers....if you can swing a 13 foot wall and a lift....you will always thank yourself for it....if not, then is understood. This is my birthday month, will run in a bit to look at a project I scheduled an appointment to see...it will have to be very nice to buy it but if you do not go look, you never know what may or may not be.....it is a dare to be different car....the other dare to be different turn out to be rotten beyond economical repair, it could be saved, just someone else will have to do it....my plate is overrunning now.....I need a project like I need a hole in my head....but, we having fun for the most part and that is what it is all about.

A salute....to all who have served.... retired US Army and US AF Reserves, combined 32+ years

USN 83-93

A few suggestions/comments. Does your rear main seal leak ? How about the oil pan, has it been off for cleaning inside ? You might consider both since you will be most of the way there with the flywheel out for the clutch install. Also as someone else mentioned make sure to get a high quality release bearing. Be sure its an angular contact bearing design, most are not in the aftermarket. I'd suggest you investigate obtaining the largest diameter clutch for your car. Often the flywheels are drilled for two sizes, the larger in my case was a 10inch. Hard to find, but once you have both pieces they can be remanufactured in the future if needed. When I installed the R-10 overdrive trans, I needed my adult sons help, it was very heavy. We used a transmission jack, and still had major issues getting the splines to line up on the clutch disc and trans input, and yes we used the proper clutch alignment tool....

Yes that's true. In a perfect world the bolts are good and can stay in place while the flywheel comes off to get fixed