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Just a few shots of the "sloooooow" progress.

I went and did it again. I FINALLY started to realize that maybe I should "thin the herd" - and I was actually doing it. I sold a couple of old cars and my motorcycle and I was trying to convince myself that I felt good about it. I was actually starting to believe that - BUT THEN IT HAPPENED - AGAIN!!!!! I was innocently browsing Facebook Marketplace (mistake #1) and for some reason I opened an ad for an antique car which I had ZERO interest in - NONE But as I was scrolling through the pictures in the ad (mistake #2) I noticed a car in the background of 2 of the pictures. Of course, I HAD to message the person running the ad asking if he'd be interested in selling the car in the background (mistake #3) I got a reply in a few minutes saying "Yes, he'd sell it, and when would I like to come see it. I immediately replied that the next morning would be a good time to go look at the car (mistake #4) The next morning I go look at the car (mistake #5) and now as they say - "The rest is history" It's a 1949 Chrysler Woody - 1 of 850 made. Picture after a little cleaning

ebay. ypu can see a pic.. full money back warranty from ebay if not as described . that's where mine came from. just be sure to search for the right years and look up the right yets on rock auto.

trunk weatherstrip channel, I doubt they're remanned, take a look at "Fitzee's Fabrication" Youtube channel. He does a bunch of videos on making replacement panels/parts from scratch with simple tools.

Yesterday I re-assembled the radio. I had previously let it sit and run on the power supply on the bench for a few hours. I'd rather something go wrong on the bench than installed in the car. I used some strips of rubber mastik tape to insulate the speaker and the radio from the chassis as well as the dash for preventing the speaker from causing nasty vibrating sounds. The switch for the radio is broken. Its a wafer switch stamped to the push button board assembly. No way to get that off without more disassembly. So I installed a switch under the dash. It works pretty well. Too bad its just AM radio. Very sensitive. Bluetooth works and I need to find a place to stick it where its out of sight. For what it is it does actually sound pretty good.

VINTAGEPIC: saw this tanker on the tarmac on the FB

All I run on my small engines and on FEF is non-oxy...have had little issues (to none) on litteing things sit and fire right up and run right. My only exception is the weed whip....small 4 stroke that has always been a bit...difficult.

Thanks. 12 coats or more.

Looking good. How many coats of varnish are you planning to apply?

Bed progress

Here is a great place to start: https://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm There are TWO very different capacitors in this radio. A aluminum can mounted up top that has 4 capacitors inside. The values and voltages are marked on the side of the can and has symbols to indicate what lug underneath is what. It is VERY important that these are wired in the right polarity. Chassis is negative and the leads that go to each lug of the can are positives. If you look at the images and see the new brown caps, those replaces the 4 values of the aluminum can. The rest of the caps are NOT polarized and can go in either way. The most important cap goes to the transformer inside a metal shielded box. Remove the top and you'll see it. Its something like a .003 Microfarad cap at 1600 volts DC. That thing gets beat to death. Here is a link to decoding the bumblebee caps: https://pickguardian.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Sprague-Bumblebee-Chart.pdf As far as aux cord to the radio the set has a dual stacked pot, which is the volume and tone control. Each of those will have three leads: A top, bottom, and a center lead. Ignore the center lead. These come right off the volume control itself ( the thing that the volume knob is attached to ) I ran a 3.5mm stereo cable into the set with a 3.5 mm male at the end. Take the right and left channels and run each side to a 30 ohm, 1/4 watt resistor. Then tie the two resistor leads the other end together. That will mix R an L channels together safely. Then that will go to the positive side of the volume control. Its the side where the radio signal comes in. You can test with some clip leads first. I'll try and post better pics later.

Tim brings up a good point... I have been running Premium, non-ethanol, gas for the past few years as well. Many of the gas stations around here offer non-ethanol in their 93 octane premium fuel. For as much as I drive my truck I don't mind spending a little more for the fuel. Maybe that's also helping? I haven't added MMO in quite a while now.