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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. Sam Buchanan
    The group is still active, I just joined. Try clearing your browser cache then try the link again.
  2. Sam Buchanan
    The transmission mounts may be sagging and throwing the shift linkage out of adjustment. Follow the procedure in the service manual for adjusting the linkage, that may fix your problem.
  3. Sam Buchanan
    That would be an easy proactive option for any pump installation, new or rebuilt.
  4. Sam Buchanan
    OK, your new ride runs and drives fine.....why change the carb?? If it is happy now it'll probably be good for a long time. These are reliable cars when in good driver condition. Beautiful car, looks identical to my '48. Mine still has the original carb and ignition, it hasn't failed me for 4+ years of frequent cruising, often 30+ miles at a time.
  5. Sam Buchanan
    Not if you use remote reservoirs that are easily accessible.
  6. Sam Buchanan
    Here is something you might consider. Having the cable break and not being able to release the hood latch would be a major irritation. I applied the same remedy I put on my TR6 which has hinges on the leading edge of the hood. If that cable breaks you really have a problem! I added a second cable for emergency release and it has a handle in the left front fender well. I can reach up in the fender and release the latch with little effort.
  7. Sam Buchanan
    You do have a service manual, right??
  8. Sam Buchanan
    Bob, I have Coker H78-15 bias ply on my '48 P15 which is oversize compared to the original tires. However the speedometer is spot on so the diameter must be very close to original. The tires work fine at 26-28 psi, these large tires would probably be happy with less pressure but lower pressure would require a bit more effort when parking.
  9. Sam Buchanan
    Excellent. And seems I recall the washer can be installed two ways but only one way will provide proper operation of the vent.
  10. Sam Buchanan
    The '48 P15 has 15" tires. But without knowing for sure if the OP is running bias or radial tires on the stock rims we are kinda in the dark.
  11. Sam Buchanan
    Beautiful car! According to the manual 6.70x15 bias-ply tires are to be inflated to 24 psi. This may sound low for those accustomed to running radials, but keep in mind the P15 is not a heavy car, about 3200 lbs, the same as an old Chevy S-10 pickup. You do have a service manual, right? Well, in case you don't: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10593924&cc=1486874&pt=10335&jsn=385
  12. Sam Buchanan
    Ok, you had us thinking "Whaaaat??" when you stated "The bearings actually pretty good, other than staining from long storage with acid containing oil in it." Some of us took that to mean you thought the bearings were good to use. We are all on the same page now.
  13. Sam Buchanan
    I mentioned that earlier and I agree that is a likely issue. Wouldn't have to be misaligned much to bind up everything.
  14. Sam Buchanan
    Ken, are you sure about your assessment of the bearings? They look pretty bad to me, lots of erosion of the surface if I am interpreting the photos correctly. The second photo seems to show bearing material wiped across the oil hole.
  15. Sam Buchanan
    Trying to think of everything that could possibly bind. Splines not aligned with the clutch disc? Nose of shaft not going into the pilot bearing? Could the release bearing get dislodged somehow and prevent the bearing cover from going though it? Trans and engine not precisely aligned? Trans tunnel not allowing proper alignment? Do you have the floor pan out of the car? The transmission is much easier to maneuver when working from above. That's about all I can come up with. The last time I installed the trans in my P15 it fought me for awhile but finally went into place. I don't know exactly what I did, just kept messing with it.....................
  16. Sam Buchanan
    Sometimes you have to sprinkle chicken blood around the shop and offer up certain incantations to get the final fit. But if no chicken blood is available keep raising and lowering the tranny a little at a time, most likely you have not yet inserted the shaft into the pilot bearing. It has to be just right. With new mounts the tranny will probably be a tighter fit up against the transmission tunnel than before. Patience. New mounts can sometimes alter the shifter geometry enough to make it impossible to engage all gears. Just go through the shifter adjustment procedure in the service manual to restore proper shifting if this is a problem.
  17. Sam Buchanan
    Gloss can also be very temperature-dependent. The paint has to be applied wet enough to flow out before the solvents begin to flash off. That is why high-end paint has various reducers available for a wide range of application temps. Don't get us started on orange peel........or fish-eyes......
  18. Sam Buchanan
    Your tranny is lying on its right side so that makes it a little harder to explain. Below is my tranny right-side-up, the hole you are referencing is upper right in my photo and is for the top shift rail. It doesn't need a plug because it is above the level of the oil in the tranny. The hole being pointed to in my photo is for the counter shaft which is a press fit in the case. But it can wear and allow leakage if not sealed. That may or may not be a problem in your case. There is a paper gasket between the tranny and bellhousing, see bottom photo.
  19. Sam Buchanan
    A sealant I've used for a long time both automotive and aviation is Permatex #2. Yes, apply a very THIN film on both sides of the gasket after you have determined both sealing surfaces are flat and true. Silicone sealants (RTV, etc) are not recommended because a tiny glob of it might get into a jet and not dissolve.
  20. Sam Buchanan
    Keep your leftover paint and a couple of brushes and touch-up as necessary.
  21. Sam Buchanan
    I can absolutely assure you the new paint processes are not cheaper!! The cost of modern, cross-linked auto finishes is staggering, often many hundreds of $$$'s per gallon when you include the necessary reducers and hardeners. Then you add several coats of extremely expensive clear. But the resulting finish is much more durable and flexible (and environmentally friendly) than the old systems such as lacquer and acrylic enamel. To call modern auto finishes "paint" is a misnomer, they should be regarded more as a plastic coating.
  22. Sam Buchanan
    My response was in regard to the original post about painting floor pans. These are parts of the car that aren't visible once the vehicle is assembled and can accept finishes that you wouldn't apply to the exterior of a hood. One of the common treatments for floor pans is POR which is a relatively thick "paint" that is applied with a brush so the pans will have a durable, rust and chip resistant finish. Rustoleum and similar exterior paints are an inexpensive alternative to the higher-$$$ stuff like POR or multi-stage epoxy and well suited to our old buggies. https://por15.com/products/rust-preventive-coating
  23. Sam Buchanan
    I've used Rustoleum and Tractor Supply's implement paint for rust "proofing" on many projects over the years. No paint will kill rust that isn't addressed but it can inhibit surface corrosion on clean surfaces. Two VW Beetle floor pans (inside and out) and running gear received the Rustoleum satin and gloss finishes and both have held up well for over twenty years. I usually use a brush because the paint can be applied thicker and the cost and mess is much less than spray cans. I've also bought quarts, thinned with mineral spirits and shot it with a spray gun when that was the best option.
  24. Sam Buchanan
    My P15 had developed a habit of occasionally going dark between high-beam and low-beam switching which made me wonder if the switch was going to totally die soon. A really dark road and the proximity of deer meant the car was more likely to pull this little trick. I replaced the dimmer switch and now the lights are reliable. I was pleased to see Rock Auto carries the switch in the Standard brand which is usually a good bet for aftermarket. I had to replace the old bullet connectors on the harness with ring terminals but that was a minor blip to get a new switch. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=445771&cc=1486874&pt=4340&jsn=390
  25. Sam Buchanan
    That's the tank in my P15, it fits and functions just fine. It doesn't have a pickup filter, I installed a filter in the fuel line just forward of the tank. My tank doesn't use the little brass ferrule from the old tank, it has NPT pipe threads.
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