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Sam Buchanan

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Everything posted by Sam Buchanan

  1. Make sure you are checking clearance with the tire on the ground and fully loaded. I was concerned when I first got my P15 as the front tire was scrubbing as shown in your photo when turned full lock when I had it on the jack and checking out everything. But when it was off the jack the clearances were fine.
  2. I think everyone on this thread agrees that good grounds are very important.
  3. I vacillated on tire choices for a couple weeks when putting my P15 back on the road. I finally settled on bias-ply Coker H78-15 Classic 3" wide whites. This is about as wide as I would want to force between the rear drum and fender. I really considered radials but was concerned about difficulty steering at parking speed. If doing it over I might go radials for a little softer ride but the speedo is accurate with the H-78s and I run about 25 psi for acceptable ride comfort. I doubt I'll wear out these tires.
  4. I wonder if the additional grounds in modern cars may be due to the dependence on digital CAN buses multiplexing throughout the entire vehicle.
  5. How 'bout just battery ground to engine and battery ground to body? Won't that cover it? (I hope it does.....that is all my car has as far as I know and everything works perfectly....)
  6. 87 octane, ethanol contaminated, straight out of the pump, never had a problem. Back when our cars came off the assembly line 70 octane was common at the country store.
  7. So you are saying the moderators need to activate the Dad Filter?? 😁 😁 Man...I can't imagine how cool it would be to be able to share my shop with my dad......
  8. Just some thoughts: Worn throttle shaft allowing air to be pulled past the shaft creating lean condition? Leaking gaskets at base of carb and/or intake manifold? Problem with centrifugal advance springs or sticking weights? Something still plugged in the carb? Stay with it, I suspect you are very close to getting this sorted out.
  9. Yep, I overpaid....seems to be a habit I have with this car..... I couldn't get the loose side of the shackle in the space between the bumper bracket/fender without trimming, but it all worked out fine.
  10. My '48 P15 with the stock 3.91 rear ratio is very happy at 60 mph. The brakes keep me from cruising any faster.
  11. Welcome to the forum! You will find the Search engine to be invaluable for poking around in the forum archives. Each hour spent reading forum archives will save you multiple hours of head scratchin' once you start wrenching on your car. I have attached my personal collection of 60 bookmarks for my P15, you will find many of these vendors useful for Your D24. Enjoy your new ride! P15 Bookmarks.html
  12. I thought about using a clamp but since the ones I replaced weren't domed I just modified them. There would have been about 5/8" of rubber to compress with a clamp if I hadn't trimmed them. Probably could have gotten by with less trimming but they work fine. If someone finds these bushings locally they should be able to make them work on their car with no problems.
  13. Too wide, Andy, don't think I would have ever gotten the loose half of the shackle fitted and the nut started. They fit nicely after trimming....I trimmed them to match the dimensions of the bushings I removed.
  14. Replaced the shackle bushings today.....railroad crossings no long go thumpity-CLUNK. The new rear engine mounts along with the shackle bushings also eliminated most of the clutch chatter. I found some Moog bushings at a good price on eBay but they are the domed head style. I cut 5/16" off the head of each bushing with the bandsaw as shown in the photo and they then looked like the bushings in my car and fit perfectly. Moog K200917 These are readily available. Be advised there are two bushings in each box. The eBay vendor advertised "8" bushings, but I received eight boxes....I now have an extra set of bushings.
  15. To close the loop on this thread the rear engine mounts and spring shackle bushings have been replaced. This eliminated most of the clutch chatter, no work on the clutch is planned. Good to go.
  16. Satchel Paige had the best philosophy concerning age: "How old would you be if you didn't know how old you are?"
  17. Removing the manifold can be straight forward.....or a nightmare. Read this thread starting with post #85 to see how bad it can get: http://p15-d24.com/topic/49976-the-windward-48-dodge-survivor/page/4/#comments
  18. Put your hand down near the junction between the intake and exhaust manifold while the car is idling.....bet you will find that gasket is blown out and the exhaust is put-putting.... The gasket is gone in my '48 P15 but until I get around to pulling the manifolds (ughhhhh) I made a steel plate that slides into that gap in between the (broken off) bolts and stops most of the leak. The carb heater flap is wedged closed by the plate.
  19. Congratulations on your new ride! Advice; Eat the elephant one bite at a time.
  20. Here is what I'm working with: Tough getting a retractor in that space......
  21. Has anyone solved the problem of where to put the shoulder belt retractor in a P15 4-door? That pillar is really skinny and I haven't figured out a way to mount the retractor so it doesn't protrude into the rear door entry.
  22. That is interesting, looks similar to the lower mounts we have, but not what is in the Service Manual illustration....best I can tell. Well....I don't know what we should be running, but I do know my P15 (and her driver) is perfectly happy with just uppers. I would love to have a copy of your master PDF file.
  23. I've about decided these old brakes are never "the best"..... Enjoy your new ride, it looks great!
  24. The gas cap vent can be easy to overlook, the cap on my P15 incorporates four tiny vents in the perimeter of the cap. They are connected to the two openings near the cap latching arms. Corrosion can do a number on this little vents. While I was chasing fuel delivery problems (engine randomly stopping) I drilled an 1/8" hole in the tank filler neck to make sure the tank was vented: The final solution to my fuel saga involved all new fuel lines, new fuel tank, mechanical pump block-off plate, new electric pump and filter. The car has been totally reliable since. I wanted to use a Facet diaphram pump because I've had great service from them on aircraft and cars for twenty years....but they don't make a 6v version. I ended up with a 6v Carter rotary pump (regulator has not been necessary), and yes, it needs to be located near the tank (no need to ask me and AAA how I know this......).
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